First AR-15 (budget or save up)

[wood714]

Well, if you ask a question on any Internet forum, you're bound to get many different opinions. Some here I can agree with, but by no means all.
I don't post here very often so here's my background for reference:
24-year LEO, primarily maritime boarding operations, CQC, I've fired a couple hundred thousand rounds through various weapons systems, also an occasional hunter, competition shooter and recreational plinker.

Here are some things I think are important for you to know at the entry level in 2025:

1) Milspec M4 handguards are out. Thats why everyone including the military are swapping them out. Save yourself the trouble and buy or build something with a rigid forearm. There are lots of great options. The M-Lok pattern seems to be winning the fight over attachment options and for good reasons. It's cheap to manufacture, its lightweight and smooth to hold onto, and it is secure under recoil with plenty of surface area engagement. This makes it better than a quad rail or Keymod.

6) I would buy a pistol brace for this firearm. You can run short or long barrels as desired.

1)Not everyone wants to hang a lot of gunk off their AR's. I know plenty of people that prefer the simple handguards.

6) If your building one from a virgin lower or buy a pistol AR you can put a brace and short barrel on it. If you have a standard AR you can't put a brace and short barrel on it. Once a rifle always a rifle unless you stamp it as a SBR.

From the ATF:

"An assembled rifle: A lower receiver that was first assembled with a 16-inch or longer barrel and a stock is legally a rifle forever. Putting a shorter barrel on it, even with a pistol brace, will constitute making an SBR without the proper registration."

I love the skinny old school handguards.

 

[Eddie Southgate]

Then Uncle Joe said ARs are bad, so now I had to have one as well. (still too expensive)

A few years ago I was in TN visiting my son and we went to a gun shop. ARs were less than $500. Wholly mackerel, but I can't take it home across state lines. When I got home I went to a local gun show and got a stripped receiver for $95. The Palmetto "Kit", all the parts to complete it brought the total sale to about $500. As good as TN.

Who says you can't buy an AR in Tennessee and drive back home with it across a state line ? Do you live in one of the communist states that think they have the right to ban ownership ? If not there would have been no reason you could not have bought one in Tennessee and took it home to another state. A handgun is another deal altogether but long guns are no problem.

 

[oldcorps76]

In 1977, I was a new AF LT on my first assignment for training at Vandenberg AFB (now Space force Base) California. I walked int to a Santa Maria gunshop looking hopefully for a Colt SAA. No luck. But there was an Colt AR-15 Sp-1 on the wall. Owner says, "thing has been up there for years. No one wants it. Vietnam Vets walk in here, take one look and walk out. I'll let you have it for $250 and a grocery bag full of ammo. Oh, no waiting period because it's a rifle..."

In Kali. Oh remembrance of things past.

I had it for 4 years, sold it for $600, regretted it and years later bought another which I still have. I have all kinds of tac-tricked out Bravo's. Aero's, etc....but this is my favorite....

 

[GypsmJim]

Who says you can't buy an AR in Tennessee and drive back home with it across a state line ? Do you live in one of the communist states that think they have the right to ban ownership ? If not there would have been no reason you could not have bought one in Tennessee and took it home to another state. A handgun is another deal altogether but long guns are no problem.

To buy a rifle in a state other than your own, it must be transacted by an FFL and be legal in both states.

I live in NY. ARs must have a fixed 10 round magazine. The ones sold in TN come with a detachable 30 rounder.

If that same rifle had been purchased by a NY FFL, he would have made it comply with NY regs before transferring it.

ARs are abundant in NY. The3 law is stupid but we still can own most everything with no waiting period or other loophole.

 

[Shibadog]

I don't know what your plans are but you're talking "Intermediate caliber". 5.56 is most definitely NOT "intermediate", unless you're comparing it to a .22 and a .30 caliber. It's a small bore light varmint round-considerably less powerful than many other varmint cartridges including 22-250, .220 Swift, or any of the .243/6mm's. A true "medium" cartridge would be something in the.308, 30-06, 0r 7mm range, with large powerful rounds being .338, .375 , or the 40+ calibers. What are you planning on doing with it? Varmint hunting? Ok, cheap centerfire range toy? Yup. Medium size game? Lot better choices out there. Self Defense? A 12 gauge is a heck of a lot more powerful and effective in any realistic "self defense" scenario. Figure what you want it for and then decide on the platform you need.

 

[TX-Dennis]

I have ARs ranging from $399 to $1600. S&W, home built from parts, Daniel Defense, PSA, even a polymer ATI Omni.

Believe it or not, they all work reliably - even the plastic one.

 

[walkin' trails]

ARs became the new "Erector Set" for adult children. There are some who say you can take any lower receiver and build whatever you want. Low end price spectrum guns like PSA can be good places to start. Or if you're not so much into building something, look for at least a mid range that does what you want it to do. First AR i ever bought was based on name brand and availability (Colt). The next couple were based on what my employer at the time mandated. They're mid to higher end pieces. One is a DI and shoots sub MOA at 100, while the other is a piston gun that shoots inch and a half. The piston gun also has a lighter barrel and hand guard and is the one I would prefer to lug around if I was still lugging them around. If I was in the serious market today, I'd probably buy a BCM Recce gas gun, or build an Aero with a custom barrel and trigger group. But it it's only a plinking or self defense gun, an out of the box PSA, M&P, etc would likely be adequate as long as you've broke it in and it's reliable.

 

[HamBoneZ]

I have 2 ar's. My first one i had custom built from special ops tactical. It's light
weight, extremely accurate, and even with the tight tolerances, it eats everything. Has a 1-8 strike eagle and a surefire light. It used to be for 3 gun, now gets used for varmits. I make 60gr vmax rounds for it.

My other is a iwi zion. Again accurate and eats everything. I leave this alone with irons. Around 700$.

I do have the ability to make my own if I wanted to, nowadays smaller parts give me trouble because my hands will shake and that is a pain.

 

[03hemi]

Bottom line, you get what you pay for.
Save up, buy a good one.

 

[biku324]

Bottom line, you get what you pay for.
Save up, buy a good one.

^^^^^This!!!

 

[rwsmith]

SKS - FUN gun. AKs - About the most uncomfortable gun I've ever shot. AR - My favorite fun rifle, the ergonomics can't be beat. I've assembled two ARs. It's important to have a good barrel with the twist you want and a GOOD TRIGGER. Everything else on ARs doesn't seem to make a lot of difference and they just function fine. For range toys or more serious, ranch or HD use, you can't beat an AR and you don't have to spend a fortune. Also, anything that you are unhappy with can be upgraded, but it's better to not spend money for something you are just going to replace. They make medium priced ARs so you don't have to get a 'budget' or a top tier gun.

 

[GypsmJim]

Bottom line, you get what you pay for.
Save up, buy a good one.

A previous poster cited his collection that ranged from ultra budget to very expensive custom. He said they all shot well including the plastic one.

The original poster has only a few firearms, thus is not a high end collector or shootist. He should buy whatever fits his budget.

A PSA is an excellent quality AR. I know of 3 that have yet to have a malfunction. The accuracy is amazing.

 

[Rick Leslie]

Something I wish someone would have told me first? That ARs are very habit forming. Until about 15 years ago I resisted the AR craze. My rifles were going to be wood and steel, like rifles are supposed to be. The I caught the bug. ARs weren't new to me, I've probably assembled and tuned over a hundred for customers and friends. But I finally realized the versatility and utility in the genius of the AR platform. Now I have more than a few.
If you're comfortable assembling your own AR, I would start with a stripped lower and buy the best parts your budget will allow. If you buy an entry level, you're going to replace a lot of the parts anyway. Custom build eliminates extra spending.
If your not comfortable doing the work, buy the best your budget allows and get familiar with its manual of arms (proper use and care).
I will say that of all the ARs to pass through my shop, I've never had to tweek or tune one. Do be mindful of twist rates and bullet weights. I stick with 55 to 65ish grain bullets in 1:8 twist. The 1:8 seems to be the Goldilocks twist. If starting from a bare receiver, I've always loved Aero for myself, but built (and used) a ton of Anderson lowers too. Just some thoughts from a humble one man shop.

 

[GypsmJim]

If you buy an entry level, you're going to replace a lot of the parts anyway. Custom build eliminates extra spending.

Do be mindful of twist rates and bullet weights. I stick with 55 to 65ish grain bullets in 1:8 twist. The 1:8 seems to be the Goldilocks twist.

Please explain.

I built a PSA kit using an Anderson frame. I am quite satisfied with it. Specifically what parts would you want to replace?

I see different barrel twists advertised. I personally have a 1:7 and a 1:8 and don't see any difference. Why do some vendors sell 1:9?

I reload and have stuck with 55 grain BT bullets. From what commercial ammo I have seen they are all 55.

 

[rockquarry]

Please explain.

I built a PSA kit using an Anderson frame. I am quite satisfied with it. Specifically what parts would you want to replace?

I see different barrel twists advertised. I personally have a 1:7 and a 1:8 and don't see any difference. Why do some vendors sell 1:9?

I reload and have stuck with 55 grain BT bullets. From what commercial ammo I have seen they are all 55.

Barrel twist rates aren't always as rigid and unyielding as some believe. I've seen this inside and outside the AR realm. It's sometimes worth the effort to try several combinations.

 

[shep854]

Many (most?) times shooters don't know what they want/need to change until they have shot one for a while, then the parts replacement/upgrade abyss opens...

 

[Pisgah]

As time has passed the cheap AR's and the high-dollar AR's have grown more and more alike, to the point they seem all but the same. So, is a $2400 AR better than a $400 AR? I'd say that in some cases the answer is yes; but, that answer is more a question of the shooter than it is of the guns. If you are an average Joe who occasionally puts a mag-full or two through your rifle at the range and keeps it in the house as a "just in case" gun, a budget AR will grant your every wish for many thousands of rounds. If you are obsessed with accuracy, or if you serve in any job that may require you to enter prolonged combat at any time, you'd probably increase the odds somewhat in your favor by going upscale. Fact is, almost all makers outsource their parts from a few manufacturers, so basic quality is decent overall when properly assembled.

 

[wood714]

If I was buying my first AR, and was on a budget. This is what I'd buy.

PSA AR

 

[03hemi]

A previous poster cited his collection that ranged from ultra budget to very expensive custom. He said they all shot well including the plastic one.

The original poster has only a few firearms, thus is not a high end collector or shootist. He should buy whatever fits his budget.

A PSA is an excellent quality AR. I know of 3 that have yet to have a malfunction. The accuracy is amazing.

I was merely responding to his original question, buy cheap or save and buy expensive.
I just told him my experience, the choice is his.

 

[langss]

Again its just been my experience, but there is something about "Building Your Own" that just lends a level of satisfaction that is hard to match. The first one I built( which I described above)all in was less than $500.00 as an experiment. I had a Brand New Colt A2 20" barrel to compare it to, and yes I paid a lot more than $500.00 for the Colt. I wasn't expecting anything special from the "Clone", but I can tell you this, when I got home, I cleaned the Colt, put it in its "Bag", and I haven't shot it since. For $500.00 I'll shoot the Clone all day every day, and when and if something ever lets go, I know I got my moneys worth out of it. All the PSA Upper Kits I have purchased have all worked equally as well. I think the Process they are put together under is considerably better than the "Gun Show" model I use as my bench mark, but to me its kind of like trusting your oil change and tire rotation to a place that has a reputation for not doing great work. If its something I can do myself and not have to be concerned about the work performed why not. The only reason I don't build my own uppers, is the TOOLS Required to do it properly. Otherwise I would do that as well. As always, just my .02....

 

[WR Moore]

Please explain.

I see different barrel twists advertised. I personally have a 1:7 and a 1:8 and don't see any difference. Why do some vendors sell 1:9?

Definitive tests by the DOD showed the 1-9 to deliver superior accuracy with bullets in the 55-65 gr weight class. I've seen great accuracy with 75 gr, but you have to watch the length of the bullet. The 75 gr Hornady HPBT stabilizes, the longer A-Max doesn't. The 1-7 twist was standardized to stabilize the much longer tracer round. It's occasionally proven a problem with lightly jacketed 55 gr expanding bullets, the FMJ is no problem.

Commercially produced .223/5.56 can have a wide range of bullet weights/designs......unless you're looking at ball duplicates and even then 62 gr is available.

 

[jackmoineau]

This thread is just in time for me since we're in the same boat, except I'm in Europe.

I own a Glock 17/26 and a S&W 686-6 (4")/19-7 (2.5").

By far, I prefer handguns, so I won't be buying many rifles. I enjoy precision shooting, so a .22 LR bolt-action rifle would probably be enough for training, but I'm also considering an AR15 in case of SHTF. Just like the OP, I'd rather buy ONE rifle and keep it. I'm just at the beginning of my research, but I've looked into models like the DDM4V7, Colt, S&W M&P 15 Sport III, and LMT. I'm thinking of a 16-inch barrel, though ideally, I'd go for 18 or 20 inches. I could also custom build it (haven't reached out yet, but I'm lucky enough that there's a skilled gunsmith specializing in ARs here in Belgium).

I don't have easy access to long-range shooting spots (mostly limited to 100m), so initially, the funds would likely go towards the rifle itself (and magazines + ammo). I like iron sights, so maybe a red dot in the future, but no immediate need for a long-range scope.

What I still don't fully understand is the exact difference between a Picatinny rail and the "cylindrical" front part, like on a Colt, for example. I like simple, clean designs, but isn't it harder to attach accessories to this front part in this case?

Also, the law here is a bit special. I can easily get any bolt-action or lever-action rifle in any caliber, but it's harder to get semi-autos (though not impossible). So maybe I should just start with a good bolt-action rifle (or a lever-action to use my .38/.357 ammo)? As I read above, there's what you need and what you want...

 

[dtwn92]

To the OP, if you haven't shot one, go shoot one. This will answer many of your questions. If you have shot one, I'd guess you'd not be here asking this question.
AR's are fun, versatile and affordable. You talked about tools, this is the speed square or multi tool on your belt.
As for price, I don't know what "affordable" is to you, $400 -$4000 depending on what you make can be affordable to most. Buy what you think you can grow with.
As for what to use it for...Putting holes in paper, varmints, other game. If a riot comes and you don't have one, you'll wish you did. If it never happens, minimalist or not, you'll have a tool you can either grow with or move on.
In other words, don't over think it, grab one and see if this is something that can make you a force multiplier for w/e you might need it for even if putting holes in paper is the only thing you ever do with it.

 

[wood714]

This thread is just in time for me since we're in the same boat, except I'm in Europe.

I'm just at the beginning of my research, but I've looked into models like the DDM4V7, Colt, S&W M&P 15 Sport III, and LMT. I'm thinking of a 16-inch barrel, though ideally, I'd go for 18 or 20 inches. I could also custom build it (haven't reached out yet, but I'm lucky enough that there's a skilled gunsmith specializing in ARs here in Belgium).


What I still don't fully understand is the exact difference between a Picatinny rail and the "cylindrical" front part, like on a Colt, for example. I like simple, clean designs, but isn't it harder to attach accessories to this front part in this case?

This thread is just in time for me since we're in the same boat, except I'm in Europe.

I own a Glock 17/26 and a S&W 686-6 (4")/19-7 (2.5").

By far, I prefer handguns, so I won't be buying many rifles. I enjoy precision shooting, so a .22 LR bolt-action rifle would probably be enough for training, but I'm also considering an AR15 in case of SHTF. Just like the OP, I'd rather buy ONE rifle and keep it. I'm just at the beginning of my research, but I've looked into models like the DDM4V7, Colt, S&W M&P 15 Sport III, and LMT. I'm thinking of a 16-inch barrel, though ideally, I'd go for 18 or 20 inches. I could also custom build it (haven't reached out yet, but I'm lucky enough that there's a skilled gunsmith specializing in ARs here in Belgium).



What I still don't fully understand is the exact difference between a Picatinny rail and the "cylindrical" front part, like on a Colt, for example. I like simple, clean designs, but isn't it harder to attach accessories to this front part in this case?

That's one of the great things about AR's. The lower is the registered part. You can swap uppers by just pulling to pins. You could go from a 16" upper to a 24" upper in seconds. You can also swap calibers of the uppers...

"The AR-15 lower receiver allows for the interchangeability of certain calibers, allowing shooters to switch between them while maintaining the same lower receiver. Here are the calibers that can be interchanged:

• 223 Remington
• 22 Nosler
• 224 Valkyrie
• 6 mm ARC
• 6.5 Grendel
• 6.8 SPC
• 300 Blackout
• 300 HAMR
• 30 Remington AR
• 7.62 x 39 rounds
• 350 Legend
• 450 Bushmaster"

If you want to attach stuff to your upper a flat top with a free float handguard is the way to go.

If you like old school, a regular round handguard will work. They do make a picatinny rail that will bolt thru the holes in round handguards.

 

[jgang123]

PSA gets you in the game.

 

[GypsmJim]

PSA gets you in the game.

That's a common answer in this thread.

 

[jgang123]

That's a common answer in this thread.

I'm not sure it's the best one, but they do work. I got into 9mm with Stoeger now its a full size m&p 2.0 I'm waiting for.

 

[langss]

That's one of the great things about AR's. The lower is the registered part. You can swap uppers by just pulling to pins. You could go from a 16" upper to a 24" upper in seconds. You can also swap calibers of the uppers...

"The AR-15 lower receiver allows for the interchangeability of certain calibers, allowing shooters to switch between them while maintaining the same lower receiver. Here are the calibers that can be interchanged:

• 223 Remington
• 22 Nosler
• 224 Valkyrie
• 6 mm ARC
• 6.5 Grendel
• 6.8 SPC
• 300 Blackout
• 300 HAMR
• 30 Remington AR
• 7.62 x 39 rounds
• 350 Legend
• 450 Bushmaster"

If you want to attach stuff to your upper a flat top with a free float handguard is the way to go.

If you like old school, a regular round handguard will work. They do make a picatinny rail that will bolt thru the holes in round handguards.

Although not for the "Inexperienced", one can also have a 9mm using the same lower that you listed all those uppers with. It can be done "Colt" style with a Mag Block, or CMMG sells a Magazine that fits directly into the "Magwell" , but again this is not something for the inexperienced. I have one older CMMG 9mm upper that got me started and now I have 2 PSA 9mm uppers that I'm building another gun for.

 

[GypsmJim]

I'm not sure it's the best one, but they do work. I got into 9mm with Stoeger now its a full size m&p 2.0 I'm waiting for.

What does BEST mean. If you are talking about automobiles, it could be cheapest, highest gas mileage, pettiest, best resale value, fastest, highest price, American made, yada, yada.

To me the best is a Chevy. Nevertheless, these days I drive a Cadillac, after 50 years of Chevies. Why? I wanted one.

As far as ARs, A $450 PSA is good enough.

 

[biku324]

That's one of the great things about AR's. The lower is the registered part. You can swap uppers by just pulling to pins. You could go from a 16" upper to a 24" upper in seconds. You can also swap calibers of the uppers...

"The AR-15 lower receiver allows for the interchangeability of certain calibers, allowing shooters to switch between them while maintaining the same lower receiver. Here are the calibers that can be interchanged:

• 223 Remington
• 22 Nosler
• 224 Valkyrie
• 6 mm ARC
• 6.5 Grendel
• 6.8 SPC
• 300 Blackout
• 300 HAMR
• 30 Remington AR
• 7.62 x 39 rounds
• 350 Legend
• 450 Bushmaster"

If you want to attach stuff to your upper a flat top with a free float handguard is the way to go.

If you like old school, a regular round handguard will work. They do make a picatinny rail that will bolt thru the holes in round handguards.

Hadn't heard of the 30 Remington AR or 300 HAMR in years!