110V welder?

[Farmer17]

Am wanting a welding machine just to do some very light welding around the house or occasionally to tack something together on one of my construction sites. I bought a 110V welder many years ago and I don't remember the brand but it was totally worthless and I returned it. I know most machines that are any good are 220V but I really need 110V for the accessibility to outlets everywhere. Does anyone make a decent 110V rig?

 

[wheelgun28]

Miller makes a decent one, one of the nice features is that it will work on 110 and 220. It adjusts its self automatically you just change the plug end of the power cord, its a quick change thing.

It has more whack on 220 but will still work on 110.

You can use gas with it so your not limited to flux core wire.

its not cheap...

I would stay away from the Harbor Freight or no name machines.

 

[Brian41]

We had a Miller at work we used on 110 volt and it worked rather well. I have a cheap one that works but you get what you pay for. Personally I like the old Lincoln 220 volt stick welder but that's what I learned on too.
Hobart makes some nice ones too and mainly what I see at the Tractor Supply store here. We had one of those in another shop and liked it too.

 

[SgtLumpy]

I have a 110v mig box from Northern Hydraulics, or whatever they call themselves now. I've Mig'd up to 1/4 inch thick steel ok. Works great with 11ga and similar. I've even welded a brake disk to an 11ga 3' pipe on one end, 15" steel wheel on the other end to make a vise stand. Didn't preheat the heavy metal pieces or anything else special.

I wouldn't build a boat trailer with it. But I'd sure build ladders, railings, exhaust systems etc with it.

I'm pretty sure it's the same as any other Chinese welder.


Sgt Lumpy

 

[NYlakesider]

Retired 40 year welder here. If you’re looking for a 110er. Make sure you have a good 20 amp homerun/outlet available. They will take up all of that 20 amps and really be happier at more amperage available. Your duty cycle will suffer as some of those machines will run at 30 on 70 off and can make a project much longer than you think.

Lincoln used to make some decent lower voltage equipment but I’m retired 13 years and have not kept track of who is doing what.

If me I would not get a stick machine but spend a few dollars more and get a gassless MIG machine. MIG is not that hard to learn and you will not have that long of a learning curve with it. As for me I would go to a 220 machine. Many people share a outlet with a dryer or kitchen stove in order to get a good MIG and do it as cheaply as possible.

 

[Ivan the Butcher]

I had to weld basement jack posts after they were adjusted to height. I rented a 220V Lincoln welder from a tool rental AND rented with it a 100' extension cord to work off the dryer outlet. I rented it 15 or 18 times in 2 1/2 years, it would have been cheaper to buy! Almost every tool rental had welders, only one store in the 16 counties of Central Ohio, had an extension cord! I know this isn't what you ask about, but maybe it will help. Ivan

 

[Bkreutz]

Another vote for the Dual voltage Miller (211). You will appreciate quality. It's like anything else, you get what you pay for. Which would you rather shoot, a S&W or a Taurus? They both "work" but which would you rather have? Same thing with a welder. If you get a cheap welder, you have a chance of getting frustrated, pushing it in the corner and never trying to weld again. With the 211 you can do everything from sheet metal to building a trailer (to borrow someone else's example). No, I don't work for Miller, just use them. Welders Direct: Millermatic 211 Autoset

 

[BigBill]

Get the Hobart or Lincoln or Miller 110volt with the plain wire with the gas hookup. The argon/co2 mixed called stargon is the way to go. I hate the flux core wire. The gas welding is so much better. Using stargon we get less weld spatter plus a better quality weld too.

What amperage?? I would suggest nothing smaller than the 125amp. I would prefer the 140amp 110volt machine.

I did a repair on a frame in the wilds with a 125amp/110volt using a 110 generator. I had the welder and generator in my jeep. I welded a dirtbike frame.

Now I have a gas driven 200amp 100% duty cycle Hobart. I'd like to piggy back a 110 volt 125/140 amp MIG welder off of it.

 

[gunnut44]

Another vote for the miller, buy it once and be done with it

 

[rags]

Hobart Handler 140. Under $500. I use 75-25 argon CO2.(small bottle) 120vac 20amp breaker. (dedicated circuit) Does 1/4" steel or less all day long. Should do well for you. Hobart and Miller are in cahoots now...by Illinois Tool Works (ITW) in 1996. They own Bernard, Tregaskiss and Jetline also.

 

[G-Mac]

Hobart and Miller are in cahoots now...

Hobart is "Miller Lite".

I second the Hobart Handler 140 recommendation. I've used mine on several commercial jobs, including doing structural sheet metal work under AWS D1.3 code...one of many welding certifications that I hold. This little machine has paid for itself many times over.

Never a problem with the Handler 140. Have had LOTS of problems with a brand new Miller 140 Auto-Set that costs a lot more than the Hobart. Have seen plenty of regular Miller 140s that run fine.

The little Lincolns are pretty good too...

 

[G-Mac]

Retired 40 year welder here. If you’re looking for a 110er. Make sure you have a good 20 amp homerun/outlet available. They will take up all of that 20 amps and really be happier at more amperage available. Your duty cycle will suffer as some of those machines will run at 30 on 70 off and can make a project much longer than you think.

Lincoln used to make some decent lower voltage equipment but I’m retired 13 years and have not kept track of who is doing what.

If me I would not get a stick machine but spend a few dollars more and get a gassless MIG machine. MIG is not that hard to learn and you will not have that long of a learning curve with it. As for me I would go to a 220 machine. Many people share a outlet with a dryer or kitchen stove in order to get a good MIG and do it as cheaply as possible.

A couple of issues here....most 220V welders require a 50 amp circuit. Dryers and kitchen stoves are generally less than 50 amps. It can be done, but expect to blow the breaker in the middle of a weld sometimes if the machine is being used hard.

I agree that a 110V MIG/Flux-core machine should generally be on a 20 amp circuit.

Also...some clarification on terminology...there's no such thing as "gasless MIG". MIG is an abbreviation for Metal Inert Gas....also known as GMAW or Gas Metal Arc Welding. MIG always uses a shielding gas...unless you like major weld defects.

You are referring to FCAW...Flux Core Arc Welding...an entirely different process that happens to use the same type of equipment, but with a different consumable wire electrode...typically, a "self-shielding" flux-cored wire. However, some flux-core wires do require a shielding gas....but it's still not MIG welding.

There is no such thing as "Flux Core MIG". They are technically two different processes.

 

[skrazo]

I have a Miller 130 (110v MIG). I find it difficult to get good penetration on steel thicker than 1/8", although the manual says the machine will weld up to 1/4" material. I like the "portability" of the 110V unit, but if I want to do "real welding" I go with a 220V stick unit (Miller Dial Arc). Would recommend avoiding HF or other 'el-cheapo' stuff.

 

[1morethan8]

I've had an old Miller Thunderbolt AC/DC welder for many years now. I only use it a few times a year to burn coated rods.
Mostly I use it on DC with a "dry rig" tig torch and can weld stainless, carbon steel, titanium, or what ever.
The machine is 220 volt and I ran a line to the breaker box to a new breaker.. piece of cake!
I use argon gas for the shielding when using the tig torch.

About the only two things that my old self and this old Miller can't weld up is a broken heart and the crack of dawn!

 

[NYlakesider]

A couple of issues here....most 220V welders require a 50 amp circuit. Dryers and kitchen stoves are generally less than 50 amps. It can be done, but expect to blow the breaker in the middle of a weld sometimes if the machine is being used hard.

I agree that a 110V MIG/Flux-core machine should generally be on a 20 amp circuit.

Also...some clarification on terminology...there's no such thing as "gasless MIG". MIG is an abbreviation for Metal Inert Gas....also known as GMAW or Gas Metal Arc Welding. MIG always uses a shielding gas...unless you like major weld defects.

You are referring to FCAW...Flux Core Arc Welding...an entirely different process that happens to use the same type of equipment, but with a different consumable wire electrode...typically, a "self-shielding" flux-cored wire. However, some flux-core wires do require a shielding gas....but it's still not MIG welding.

There is no such thing as "Flux Core MIG". They are technically two different processes.

Thanks for your update you are correct, I was posting fast as I had to go out and I realized that I was not answering a person that had extensive welding background so keep it easy reading.

As for me I would have a MIG "with a bottle" on a dedicated heavy duty home run, but I have seen many times that people that only weld on occasion the "Flux Core" is the best for them. Nothing worse than to activate a long sleeping piece of equipment for an emergency fix and find out your bottle is MT. (Empty)

 

[G-Mac]

As for me I would have a MIG "with a bottle" on a dedicated heavy duty home run, but I have seen many times that people that only weld on occasion the "Flux Core" is the best for them. Nothing worse than to activate a long sleeping piece of equipment for an emergency fix and find out your bottle is MT. (Empty)

Absolutely agree, NYlakesider!

Funny thing about welding bottles...they always seem to run out on an important job, on the weekend, when the welding supply store is closed.

I, personally, wouldn't own a wire-feed machine that couldn't do MIG and flux-core...a "flux-core only" machine. I suppose it's better than nothing, but I like having the option. I tell people to buy one that comes with a regulator for the gas, and a gas input on the machine, with internal solenoid, for turning the gas on and off when you hit the trigger. Pretty much any good 110V, 140amp output wire-feed machine will have this nowadays.

Also, for the novice welders (not you NYlakesider)....the MIG process isn't always the best for outdoor use....the wind can blow away the shielding gas causing weld defects...mainly porosity in the welds, which makes them weak. This is where gasless flux-core comes in handy...pretty much not affected by wind...this is one reason that it's the preferred method on lots of structural steel jobs....not with a 110V machine, of course....much heavier duty equipment.

Just remember....when changing your little 110V machine from MIG to flux-core wire (or vice versa) you must change the polarity on the output! This is why some people get frustrated and make comments like "this machine runs like **** with flux-core wire". This is simple to do! Usually, a couple of wing-nuts you remove and just switch the leads around!

MIG (solid wire with shielding gas) runs best on DCEP (Direct Current Electrode Positive).

The gasless flux-core runs on DCEN (Direct Current Electrode Negative).

If your polarity is backwards, on either process, it won't run the way it should! Lots of 110V welders get sold cheap, by people who think they suck at welding, when all they needed to do was properly set the polarity on the machine.

 

[rojodiablo]

Am wanting a welding machine just to do some very light welding around the house or occasionally to tack something together on one of my construction sites. I bought a 110V welder many years ago and I don't remember the brand but it was totally worthless and I returned it. I know most machines that are any good are 220V but I really need 110V for the accessibility to outlets everywhere. Does anyone make a decent 110V rig?

Millermatic 140, Lincoln 140, and the Hobart 140 are all very good, with good arc quality.

Go to 301 Moved Permanently and take a look around. There is a long standing thread on this very subject.

While I have several machines, for around the house and farm the 120-140A welders of this modern era are good machines, have good arc quality and can weld up to 3/16 or 1/4" without much issue, given you have good prep work skills.

With preheat, you can go a little thicker. I mig weld tabs on truck bumpers of 1/2" and with a good bevel, and some good preheat with a propane torch, they weld up in 3 or so passes and see serious duty, with no issues.

 

[G-Mac]

I mig weld tabs on truck bumpers of 1/2" and with a good bevel, and some good preheat with a propane torch, they weld up in 3 or so passes and see serious duty, with no issues.

If you're saying that those tabs are 1/2" thick, and you say that you have several machines, not sure why you'd use a 110V MIG. I'd use stick or flux-core for this job...and not a 110V flux-core.

The bevel and pre-heat surely help, but still...these little machines have limits. You haven't had any issues..."yet".

 

[BigBill]

You can weld thicker metal in a pinch if you preheat the area. But I'd rather use stick.

Watch for sales at tractor supply.

 

[G-Mac]

You can weld thicker metal in a pinch if you preheat the area. But I'd rather use stick.

100% correct, BigBill. A good stick weld will be much stronger than anything done with a 110V MIG machine.

Welding machines are like firearms...they are built with a specific purpose in mind.

110V MIG welders are just not a good choice for critical welds on thicker material. These are light-duty machines. I even prefer any good stick machine to my 220V MIG, where strength is a factor.