14-5 action

[SW CQB 45]

I bought a nice used 14-5 6".

The first thing I immediately noticed about this gun was the very heavy stiff rough trigger pull.

it actually affected accuracy when I first shot it.

I set it to the side to one day attend to it.

that day arrived.

I examined the trigger pull and notice the first part of the pull was a thump and could see the hammer actually make a side or left movement, then the trigger pull would pull the hammer back in DA.

I noticed the sideplate was extremely hard to remove and the SP screws were not buggered up, so that is a good thing.

I noticed on the inside side plate, a heavy rub or shiny spot from the hand. the was also a heavy shiny mark on the hammer where it was obviously being pushed left at the first of the trigger pull.

Nothing else to note inside other that alot of jagged edges and trigger or hammer pins protruding causing interference with the sideplate or reciever. I address those issues by tapping the pins back to center and with just some very light stoning (no angles changed) just ran over high, jagged edges and just a couple of light passes here and there looking for a smoother action.

Since I had hammer movement to the left at the first of trigger pull, decided to install two pivot washers on the left side of both the hammer and trigger.

I had a bunch of rebound springs and decided to play with a really light one and the hammer would not fall. the slide would bottom out. that really baffled me.

A very nice forum member had sent me a cut red rebound and I installed that one. I also had a variety of mainsprings but none would work as the rebound slide would make contact. The one taken out actually had an additional curve on the top end to make clearance with he slide.

Now for my questions
What is the preferred method for the mainspring strain screw in the area of adjustment?

for optimal trigger pull with the original strain screw, I need to back out 1/2 to 1 + but none of this has been tested for reliability

do I just test to make sure it goes bang, then loctite, trim to size for complete lock down or is there another method?

I am using the soft rubber Bill Davis large grips which cover the strain screw. is there a method of boring or melting a hole in this grip that does not look like I used a rosebud torch attachment?

I want it to look decent and I know this softer rubber will not removed easy.

The hammer seems to be more to the right side now with the install of the two washers on one side, so I will likely move one washer to the opposite side. The action functions alot smoother but there is still that thump feel at the very first of the pull but it is lessened and I cannot see the hammer side movement any further.

what causes the side move of a hammer at the first of the trigger pull? contacts surfaces not cut square?

I do plan to send this gun to a gunsmith for NRA Distinguished Revolver specs, just no money right now.

thanks in advance

 

[SW CQB 45]

Follow up

OK, I moved the washers over to where its one on each side.

I think they are .002" each.

anyway the initial trigger stroke....

the thud or odd feeling click is more pronounced than with the two washers on one side, but I am not able to see side movement of the hammer.

any idea what is causing this feel at the initial pull? there is no cylinder movement until after this thud or click feel.
My trigger pull per digital lyman gauge

DA 8#14.5oz avg
SA 3#11.7oz avg

this is with one complete turn out with the strain screw.

It is much smoother and I will start practicing with it. as anal as I am...I would like to get rid of that thud feel.

 

[tomcatt51]

The trigger moves slightly before it engages the DA sear. You may be feeling that or the trigger engaging and disengaging from the cylinder stop. Some stoning of the stop and trigger is usually required. Very carefully on the trigger or you'll be buying a new one.

An NRA Distinguished Revolver "by the book" is supposed to have stock internals except for stoning. If I read it right. I don't know if or how that's enforced, or not.

A Wolff reduced power mainspring with the strain screw maybe slightly shortened (.010-.015) or backed out slightly with a 13 lb Wolff rebound spring (maybe clipped) should give you a nice DA with a just over 2 1/2 lb SA. If I was going to do it with stock parts the mainspring would get recontoured (bent) and I'd put a stock rebound spring in a vise coil bound and heat it to take a set. It takes some playing to get it right but take-out stock rebound springs are pretty easy to come by. The SA only 14's came with a lighter (now discontinued) rebound spring.

I checked my 14-7 and it's right at 2 1/4 lb SA and 6 lb DA with a 12 lb Wolff rebound and a Wolff reduced power main and the strain screw out (I think) 1/2 turn for reference. Good luck.

 

[SW CQB 45]

tomcat

thanks for the info.

did you have to recontour the Wolf mainspring as the other factory ones I have....the slide made contact with the spring?

the gun is just set up for practice right now. I will not attend another NRA sanctioned event till next year, but will attend two additional practice matches (if not cancelled) and they dont check guns.

It will get tuned in the off season by Bob Jones out of Jackson MS.

I like it right now...may need some tweaking but for the most part...what ever Jones will do to my gun....I will live with that.

 

[tomcatt51]

did you have to recontour the Wolf mainspring as the other factory ones I have....the slide made contact with the spring?

You don't recontour (bend) the Wolff mainsprings. The difference between a standard and reduced power Wolff mainspring is the amount of arch. The reduced power has more arch.

 

[SW CQB 45]

I am not able to work the action without the sideplate attached as the rebound lifts....so I am not able to see what the initial trigger pull feel is.

TomCat, with your first post...I thought maybe the DA sear might need stoning, but the trigger is not moving.

is there anyway to keep the rebound down in place with the side plate off to work the action to ID the culprit?

TIA

 

[pharmer]

9# DA and 4# SA is about right from the factory. Smoothness should come with use. Joe

 

[tomcatt51]

is there anyway to keep the rebound down in place with the side plate off to work the action to ID the culprit?
TIA

Yes. Back the strain screw off so there's just barely enoungh tension on the mainspring it won't fall out. Replace the rebound spring with the spring out of a ball point pen (or similar), clipped shorter if necessary. That should let you run the trigger and watch how everything works.

 

[SW CQB 45]

Yes. Back the strain screw off so there's just barely enoungh tension on the mainspring it won't fall out. Replace the rebound spring with the spring out of a ball point pen (or similar), clipped shorter if necessary. That should let you run the trigger and watch how everything works.

Cool, I will try that soon. I did a test with my very rough M65 police trade in. This is the gun that would not have a hammer nose live in it more that 15 snaps and it would break off.

anyway, I figured its lifetime, it was a dry fire or take away gun as the action is bone stone and very smooth trigger pull. the previous owner (brother officer who was going overseas) asked if I wanted it.

He said, I could have it for 125 and I would need to find out why hammer noses would constantly break.

I bought it for 125, and soon discovered SW never clearance the hammer nose channel in the reciever properly. a little dremel action, install of a hammer nose and it been running strong ever since.

Anyway, I slowly stroked this trigger and there is no hitch or thump at first movement, then the hammer and cylinder start to move. I will use this one as an example to follow (to ID the culprit hitch or thump in the 14-5)

thanks again