Tunachaser
US Veteran
This remington is in extreamly good condition. I plan on shooting it next week.
1858 Remington
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You are going to have a blast with it! Be sure to use proper fitting balls (many of use .454 in a 44 cal C&B gun) and real Black powder or a synthetic.
What a piece of history you will get to fire!! I envy you ...
Randy
What a piece of history you will get to fire!! I envy you ...
Randy
They are realy cool revolvers them blackpowder front stuffer 
I have a few, (but only Italian repros).
Two Remingtons and one 1860 Colt.
I wish i could afford the real deal.
Have fun and take lots of pictures for us
I have a few, (but only Italian repros).
Two Remingtons and one 1860 Colt.
I wish i could afford the real deal.
Have fun and take lots of pictures for us
feralmerril
Absent Comrade
I have this original one. It has been reblued, a old king red post front sight put on and the hog wallow rear groove squared. All that done many years ago before I got it. I have owned it about 35 years. I have shot it a few times and it is accurate.
chaim
Member
I have 1858 Remington and 1860 Colt replicas. I really love the 1858 Remington design and think it is superior to the Colt. I wish I would be able shoot a real one myself, you are quite fortunate. Nice piece of history there.
Gatofeo
Member
Search the internet for my long-standing post, "Proper Use of a Cap and Ball Revolver," or "So You Want a Cap and Ball Revolver?"
These posts are long, so you'll want to print them out, but I've put a TON of information in there that you'll find useful.
Though some others may suggest it, I would NOT use Hodgdon 777 in that old revolver. Hodgdon 777 is stout stuff. It's not a measure-for-measure equal to black powder like Pyrodex P. Hodgdon warns to use 15% less of 777.
Hodgdon Pyrodex is intended to be used with the same measures as black powder, so buy a can of that in P grade if you can't find real black powder in your area.
Real black powder should be FFFG (triple F-G) grade.
You may also safely use FFG black powder, or Pyrodex RS grade, but these powders are coarser and won't burn as well.
I prefer Remington caps. Your revolver will probably take No. 11 caps. If you can't find Remington, use RWS (made in Germany) or CCI caps, in that order. All are noncorrosive, but the CCI caps seem to give me more misfires.
Use a .454 or .457" ball. The larger ball seals better, and creates a wider bearing band for the rifling to grip.
I prefer Speer balls. Hornady always seems to have a few out-of-round balls in each package. Probably doesn't make a difference but it bugs me.
Buy some .44/.45 caliber felt Wonder Wads, made by Ox-Yoke. Melt some SPG, Lyman Black Powder Gold or Dixie Guns Works Ol' Zip Patch Grease in a clean tuna or pet food can over the stove at very low heat. Add the felt wads and stir them to ensure they're well-soaked.
Remove can from stove and allow the lubricant and wads to cool. Snap a plastic pet-food cover over the top, to hold in the moisture and keep out dust, crud, bugs, etc.
Powder measures may be made from fired cartridge cases (leave the primer in).
For your Remington, I wouldn't suggest more than about 30 grs. of black powder. You can file down the larger-capacity cases, such as .44 Magnum, to create not only a reduced volume but a little spout to make it easier to pour.
Here are fired cases and their black powder volume, by weight:
Case: Goex FFg Goex FFFg
.38 Special 25.0 gr. 25.5 gr.
.357 Mag. 27.5 gr. 28.0 gr.
.45 ACP 27.2 gr. 27.8 gr.
.44 Mag. 38.5 gr. 40.0 gr.
.45 Colt 44.0 gr. 46.0 gr.
You'll also need a nipple wrench. First, check to see that the nipples are still in the cylinder tight. If they're not battered, tight, and you can see light through them, you're ready to go.
Pour in 25 to 30 grains of black powder or Pyrodex, measured by volume.
Thumb in a lubricated felt wad. With 25 grs. you may want to put TWO wads in. The Remington has a rammer much shorter than the Colt, and may not push the ball or wad down firmly on a light load of powder. This creates a dangerous condition of a gap between powder and wad or projectile.
After seating the wad(s) firmly on the powder, place a ball in the charged chamber and seat firmly with the rammer. No need to crush the powder under the wad or bullet, but just a firm seating so there is no space.
If you use a lubricated wad, there is no need to put grease over the ball. But if you DO use grease, use a non-petroleum grease. Petroleum products, when fired with black powder or it substitutes, create a hard, tarry fouiing that may affect accuracy and is harder to clean later.
Natural greases such as Crisco, Bore Butter, beeswax melted and softened with olive oil, lard softened with olive oil, etc. work fine.
The old Colts and Remingtons typically shot high, as much as 12" high at 25 yards. This was because they were used to augment the single-shot rifle out to 100 yards or so. Since your pistol is original, I would NOT file or similarly change the sights. Use them as-is, just as the soldiers and frontiersmen did.
The original Colts had gain-twist rifling: it started out straight, then the pitch became quicker as it neared the muzzle. I believe the old Remingtons had this same type of rifling.
Gain-twist rifling was very accurate with balls, not so much with conical bullets. The relatively short bearing surface of the ball worked fine in gain twist, but when used with a conical bullet, its longer bearing surface worked against it: the front of the bullet wanted to turn faster than the rear.
Stick to balls. They're more readily available and easier to load straight.
However, Dixie Gun Works sells conical bullets for cap and ball revolvers based on the original designs of bullet moulds. You could buy 100 authentic Remington-design conicals and give them a try.
Might be fun to try.
Cleanup is with hot, soapy water. Remove the grips and set aside. Remove the trigger guard, cylinder, rammer assembly, nipples from the cylinder, hammer spring and interior parts. Scrub them in hot, soapy water with a toothbrush. Dawn dishwashing liquid is good, and I keep a bar of Ivory floating in the tub to work up a good, grease-cutting lather on the brush.
Rinse cleaned parts in hot water, shake off excess water, and place on a shallow tray in the oven. Do NOT place the grips in the oven. Set them aside for later cleaning.
Set the oven to its lowest setting, generally 150 to 170 degrees. Crack the door open a bit, to allow moisture to escape.
A dry patch down the chambers and barrel will remove droplets before the oven heating.
Leave the parts in the oven for 15 or 20 minutes, until all moisture is driven from them. Remove the pan and allow to cool to warm.
While warm, coat all surfaces liberally with olive or vegetable oil. Allow this oil to soak in overnight or a few days. Steel is porous and will soak up the oil. This will discourage rust in all but the most humid climates.
After a day or two of the oil treatment, reassemble the gun.
The wooden grips can be lightly wiped with a damp, soft cloth to remove fouling. The wood may be oiled with Lemon Oil, available in the furniture polish section of any store -- real lemon oil, not Pledge or any spray wax containing it. The lemon oil will keep the wood from drying and cracking.
You have a very nice revolver. Take care of it, and it will last another 150 years or so.
These posts are long, so you'll want to print them out, but I've put a TON of information in there that you'll find useful.
Though some others may suggest it, I would NOT use Hodgdon 777 in that old revolver. Hodgdon 777 is stout stuff. It's not a measure-for-measure equal to black powder like Pyrodex P. Hodgdon warns to use 15% less of 777.
Hodgdon Pyrodex is intended to be used with the same measures as black powder, so buy a can of that in P grade if you can't find real black powder in your area.
Real black powder should be FFFG (triple F-G) grade.
You may also safely use FFG black powder, or Pyrodex RS grade, but these powders are coarser and won't burn as well.
I prefer Remington caps. Your revolver will probably take No. 11 caps. If you can't find Remington, use RWS (made in Germany) or CCI caps, in that order. All are noncorrosive, but the CCI caps seem to give me more misfires.
Use a .454 or .457" ball. The larger ball seals better, and creates a wider bearing band for the rifling to grip.
I prefer Speer balls. Hornady always seems to have a few out-of-round balls in each package. Probably doesn't make a difference but it bugs me.
Buy some .44/.45 caliber felt Wonder Wads, made by Ox-Yoke. Melt some SPG, Lyman Black Powder Gold or Dixie Guns Works Ol' Zip Patch Grease in a clean tuna or pet food can over the stove at very low heat. Add the felt wads and stir them to ensure they're well-soaked.
Remove can from stove and allow the lubricant and wads to cool. Snap a plastic pet-food cover over the top, to hold in the moisture and keep out dust, crud, bugs, etc.
Powder measures may be made from fired cartridge cases (leave the primer in).
For your Remington, I wouldn't suggest more than about 30 grs. of black powder. You can file down the larger-capacity cases, such as .44 Magnum, to create not only a reduced volume but a little spout to make it easier to pour.
Here are fired cases and their black powder volume, by weight:
Case: Goex FFg Goex FFFg
.38 Special 25.0 gr. 25.5 gr.
.357 Mag. 27.5 gr. 28.0 gr.
.45 ACP 27.2 gr. 27.8 gr.
.44 Mag. 38.5 gr. 40.0 gr.
.45 Colt 44.0 gr. 46.0 gr.
You'll also need a nipple wrench. First, check to see that the nipples are still in the cylinder tight. If they're not battered, tight, and you can see light through them, you're ready to go.
Pour in 25 to 30 grains of black powder or Pyrodex, measured by volume.
Thumb in a lubricated felt wad. With 25 grs. you may want to put TWO wads in. The Remington has a rammer much shorter than the Colt, and may not push the ball or wad down firmly on a light load of powder. This creates a dangerous condition of a gap between powder and wad or projectile.
After seating the wad(s) firmly on the powder, place a ball in the charged chamber and seat firmly with the rammer. No need to crush the powder under the wad or bullet, but just a firm seating so there is no space.
If you use a lubricated wad, there is no need to put grease over the ball. But if you DO use grease, use a non-petroleum grease. Petroleum products, when fired with black powder or it substitutes, create a hard, tarry fouiing that may affect accuracy and is harder to clean later.
Natural greases such as Crisco, Bore Butter, beeswax melted and softened with olive oil, lard softened with olive oil, etc. work fine.
The old Colts and Remingtons typically shot high, as much as 12" high at 25 yards. This was because they were used to augment the single-shot rifle out to 100 yards or so. Since your pistol is original, I would NOT file or similarly change the sights. Use them as-is, just as the soldiers and frontiersmen did.
The original Colts had gain-twist rifling: it started out straight, then the pitch became quicker as it neared the muzzle. I believe the old Remingtons had this same type of rifling.
Gain-twist rifling was very accurate with balls, not so much with conical bullets. The relatively short bearing surface of the ball worked fine in gain twist, but when used with a conical bullet, its longer bearing surface worked against it: the front of the bullet wanted to turn faster than the rear.
Stick to balls. They're more readily available and easier to load straight.
However, Dixie Gun Works sells conical bullets for cap and ball revolvers based on the original designs of bullet moulds. You could buy 100 authentic Remington-design conicals and give them a try.
Might be fun to try.
Cleanup is with hot, soapy water. Remove the grips and set aside. Remove the trigger guard, cylinder, rammer assembly, nipples from the cylinder, hammer spring and interior parts. Scrub them in hot, soapy water with a toothbrush. Dawn dishwashing liquid is good, and I keep a bar of Ivory floating in the tub to work up a good, grease-cutting lather on the brush.
Rinse cleaned parts in hot water, shake off excess water, and place on a shallow tray in the oven. Do NOT place the grips in the oven. Set them aside for later cleaning.
Set the oven to its lowest setting, generally 150 to 170 degrees. Crack the door open a bit, to allow moisture to escape.
A dry patch down the chambers and barrel will remove droplets before the oven heating.
Leave the parts in the oven for 15 or 20 minutes, until all moisture is driven from them. Remove the pan and allow to cool to warm.
While warm, coat all surfaces liberally with olive or vegetable oil. Allow this oil to soak in overnight or a few days. Steel is porous and will soak up the oil. This will discourage rust in all but the most humid climates.
After a day or two of the oil treatment, reassemble the gun.
The wooden grips can be lightly wiped with a damp, soft cloth to remove fouling. The wood may be oiled with Lemon Oil, available in the furniture polish section of any store -- real lemon oil, not Pledge or any spray wax containing it. The lemon oil will keep the wood from drying and cracking.
You have a very nice revolver. Take care of it, and it will last another 150 years or so.
deadin
US Veteran
While we have some Remington C&B fans here I have one that is somewhat unusual and would appreciate any comments/ideas as to just what it may be.
I think I may have posted some of the pictures before but have since created a website with better photos.
I ran across this gun which I believe started life as a Remington New Model Army.
As you can see it has had extensive "mods" done to it. I know that they were done at least 50 years ago as it came from the estate of a man that died 50 or 60 so years ago. It appears to be in .44 Colt and has been buffed and plated. I have a number of detailed pictures of the various conversions and have posted them on the link shown below.
This looks like a "labor of love" for some "smith as there has been a lot of work poured into it.
If anybody would like to take a stab on just what it is any help will be welcome.........
Untitled
I see that Black Hills has 44 Colt ammo available, but I haven't decided if I want to shoot it or not. I probably should make sure that 44 Colt is correct before I spend $40 or so for a box.
I think I may have posted some of the pictures before but have since created a website with better photos.
I ran across this gun which I believe started life as a Remington New Model Army.
As you can see it has had extensive "mods" done to it. I know that they were done at least 50 years ago as it came from the estate of a man that died 50 or 60 so years ago. It appears to be in .44 Colt and has been buffed and plated. I have a number of detailed pictures of the various conversions and have posted them on the link shown below.
This looks like a "labor of love" for some "smith as there has been a lot of work poured into it.
If anybody would like to take a stab on just what it is any help will be welcome.........
Untitled
I see that Black Hills has 44 Colt ammo available, but I haven't decided if I want to shoot it or not. I probably should make sure that 44 Colt is correct before I spend $40 or so for a box.
feralmerril
Absent Comrade
Yours has had metal added in front of the bottom of the clyinder, hammer spur work besides the back of the clyinder, a labor of love for sure.
I think your Remington is a gunsmith conversion. Not unusual to find them done on Colts and Remingtons both.
A breech plate to take up the space of what is machined off the rear of the orig cylinder. Conversion to center fire hammer, loading gate added,ect.
Lots of work, but in those days, cheaper than a new revolver,,or maybe no new cartridge revolver(s) were available.
The groove diameter spec of the bbl (.448) is under what the original 44 C&B would bbl be.
But it's right where it's correct for a 44 Henry RF.
Could the revolver have originally been converted to fire 44Henry RF ?
(Would a '36cal C&B bbl fit a New Army 44 cal revolver to be used for a rebore?)
The original factory conversions were done to .46 Remington RF. A good (bullet dia .455/.456) fit to the original 44 C&B bbl groove dia.
A second conversion to centerfire might have been done on the revolver later on. No reason the gun couldn't have been around the barn more than once.
The loss of easy to obtain 44Henry ammunition, or want for more power.
A new conversion to CF breech plate, hammer alteration and rechamber to another cartridge.
That new round could be 44 Colt CF,,,,could be 44 Remington CF,,?
They are not interchangable,,but they are close.
(44 Remington CF was one of the chamberings used in the 1875 Remington revolver)
What they do have in common is that both use a bullet (heeled) that is far larger in diameter than the groove diameter of the barrel spec you've measured.
Modern .44 Colt CF ammo made for the repros on the market uses regular .429dia bullets loaded inside the case of shortened 44 Russian brass. Not really authentic 44 Colt CF spec.
The original Remington and Colt rounds used very small diameter rims also so as to be able to fit the rounds into the cylinder.
Just my thoughts..
Very interesting revolver. The conversions in general are interesting as so many were done outside the factory as from within.
There is/was a book on the Colt conversions. I don't know if anyone ever wrote up the Remington and lesser known brand conversions.
Last edited:
OP
Tunachaser
US Veteran
You guys are the best. Thanks for the info. I will try to get my cousin to film me firing the Remington.
Thuer
Member
Nice Old Army Remington. It different from the New Army because of the Gap in the loading press.
It has a slot in it to release the cilinderpin without lower the press. But, when you shoot the Remington.
The cylinder ax has a tendency to come forward and the cylinder came loose. Then the came up with the New Army.
This model has a closed loading press. So the cilinderax was fixed. I do love those old Remington's. I do own both. The Colt model 1860 made in 1862 and the Remington New Jersey contract
I have to admit. I never shot both. I do own the Colt for about 21 year and the Remington for about 11 year. They are in a very good condition. I like to keep them in that way.
It has a slot in it to release the cilinderpin without lower the press. But, when you shoot the Remington.
The cylinder ax has a tendency to come forward and the cylinder came loose. Then the came up with the New Army.
This model has a closed loading press. So the cilinderax was fixed. I do love those old Remington's. I do own both. The Colt model 1860 made in 1862 and the Remington New Jersey contract
I have to admit. I never shot both. I do own the Colt for about 21 year and the Remington for about 11 year. They are in a very good condition. I like to keep them in that way.
deadin
US Veteran
OK, did a little more "measuring" on the Remington conversion I posted earlier.
I made a big mistake on the bore diameter. (Seems I overlooked the fact it was a 5 groove and you can't just take a direct micrometer reading on a slug with an odd number of grooves….) It appears that the bore is a .454 (or thereabouts). I also dug out my collection of various shell casings and did some empirical testing. The cylinder is bored straight through, no shoulder, and measures .454 at the front mouth. A 44 Russian fits just fine. (Even the rim fits the rebate) What I take from this is that the bullet has to either be a heel seat or a hollow base.(or both.) Any thoughts?
I also took another hard look at what is left of the numbers found on the bottom of the barrel, left butt frame and rear of the trigger guard. They all appear to match. There is also a number "41" on the left butt frame and on the grips. (Fitters assembly number?)
Another oddity is the way the rifling "flares out" at the muzzle. Anybody seen this elsewhere and any idea why??
I made a big mistake on the bore diameter. (Seems I overlooked the fact it was a 5 groove and you can't just take a direct micrometer reading on a slug with an odd number of grooves….
) It appears that the bore is a .454 (or thereabouts). I also dug out my collection of various shell casings and did some empirical testing. The cylinder is bored straight through, no shoulder, and measures .454 at the front mouth. A 44 Russian fits just fine. (Even the rim fits the rebate) What I take from this is that the bullet has to either be a heel seat or a hollow base.(or both.) Any thoughts?I also took another hard look at what is left of the numbers found on the bottom of the barrel, left butt frame and rear of the trigger guard. They all appear to match. There is also a number "41" on the left butt frame and on the grips. (Fitters assembly number?)
Another oddity is the way the rifling "flares out" at the muzzle. Anybody seen this elsewhere and any idea why??
Texas Star
US Veteran
Someone mentioned that the rifling on these old guns works best with balls, not conical bullets. Elmer Keith noted that Civil War vets told him that the ball killed much better.
Worth knowing.
Worth knowing.
Gatofeo
Member
That was me that commented on conical bullets, as seen above:
"The original Colts had gain-twist rifling: it started out straight, then the pitch became quicker as it neared the muzzle. I believe the old Remingtons had this same type of rifling.
"Gain-twist rifling was very accurate with balls, not so much with conical bullets. The relatively short bearing surface of the ball worked fine in gain twist, but when used with a conical bullet, its longer bearing surface worked against it: the front of the bullet wanted to turn faster than the rear.
"Stick to balls. They're more readily available and easier to load straight.
"However, Dixie Gun Works sells conical bullets for cap and ball revolvers based on the original designs of bullet moulds. You could buy 100 authentic Remington-design conicals and give them a try.
"Might be fun to try."
The original design conical bullets for cap and ball revolvers were stubby and had bearing surfaces not much longer than the ball.
Modern conical bullets tend to have long bearing surfaces, which can be inaccurate in the old guns with gain twist rifling.
The problem really comes to a head when today's shooters try to use a modern semi-wadcutter made for the .45 ACP or .45 Long Colt, cast of hard lead alloy, with hard, non-sticky lubricant and no heel to start the bullet straight.
These four factors really work against accuracy in a cap and ball revolver with gain twist.
The late gun writer Elmer Keith (1899 - 1984) knew Civil War veterans as a kid growing up in western Montana. He began carrying an original Colt 1851 Navy at the age of 12. Two veterans (a Yank and a Reb) showed him how to load it and use it, and related firsthand experiences of handgun effectiveness against soldiers.
Yep, both veterans said that the lead ball over a full charge of powder was more effective than the conical bullets issued in paper cartridges. This probably wasn't common knowledge at the time, because relatively few revolver-caliber balls have been recovered from campsites and battlefields.
Based on archaeological digs and amateurs with metal detectors, nearly all revolver projectiles used by Civil War solders were conicals. The ease of loading with paper cartridges was undoubtedly a major factor. Balls were never issued in paper cartridges, only conicals.
Keith spoke highly of his Colt 1851 Navy. Though it had a pitted bore, he was able to get cloverleafs (all bullet holes touching each other) at 20 yards. That's on the heels of target pistol accuracy.
Yes, the old guns (and today's) can be that accurate if properly loaded.
Keith traded that 1851 Navy for a new .38 Special revolver, which he lamented because that particular .38 revolver was never as accurate as the old Colt.
With FFFG black powder, a lubricated felt wad and oversized lead ball, cap and ball revolvers of old or new manufacture can be remarkably accurate. And deadly. They are not toys. The ghosts of millions would sigh and agree.
"The original Colts had gain-twist rifling: it started out straight, then the pitch became quicker as it neared the muzzle. I believe the old Remingtons had this same type of rifling.
"Gain-twist rifling was very accurate with balls, not so much with conical bullets. The relatively short bearing surface of the ball worked fine in gain twist, but when used with a conical bullet, its longer bearing surface worked against it: the front of the bullet wanted to turn faster than the rear.
"Stick to balls. They're more readily available and easier to load straight.
"However, Dixie Gun Works sells conical bullets for cap and ball revolvers based on the original designs of bullet moulds. You could buy 100 authentic Remington-design conicals and give them a try.
"Might be fun to try."
The original design conical bullets for cap and ball revolvers were stubby and had bearing surfaces not much longer than the ball.
Modern conical bullets tend to have long bearing surfaces, which can be inaccurate in the old guns with gain twist rifling.
The problem really comes to a head when today's shooters try to use a modern semi-wadcutter made for the .45 ACP or .45 Long Colt, cast of hard lead alloy, with hard, non-sticky lubricant and no heel to start the bullet straight.
These four factors really work against accuracy in a cap and ball revolver with gain twist.
The late gun writer Elmer Keith (1899 - 1984) knew Civil War veterans as a kid growing up in western Montana. He began carrying an original Colt 1851 Navy at the age of 12. Two veterans (a Yank and a Reb) showed him how to load it and use it, and related firsthand experiences of handgun effectiveness against soldiers.
Yep, both veterans said that the lead ball over a full charge of powder was more effective than the conical bullets issued in paper cartridges. This probably wasn't common knowledge at the time, because relatively few revolver-caliber balls have been recovered from campsites and battlefields.
Based on archaeological digs and amateurs with metal detectors, nearly all revolver projectiles used by Civil War solders were conicals. The ease of loading with paper cartridges was undoubtedly a major factor. Balls were never issued in paper cartridges, only conicals.
Keith spoke highly of his Colt 1851 Navy. Though it had a pitted bore, he was able to get cloverleafs (all bullet holes touching each other) at 20 yards. That's on the heels of target pistol accuracy.
Yes, the old guns (and today's) can be that accurate if properly loaded.
Keith traded that 1851 Navy for a new .38 Special revolver, which he lamented because that particular .38 revolver was never as accurate as the old Colt.
With FFFG black powder, a lubricated felt wad and oversized lead ball, cap and ball revolvers of old or new manufacture can be remarkably accurate. And deadly. They are not toys. The ghosts of millions would sigh and agree.
OP
Tunachaser
US Veteran
They say we have some of them ghost downtown at the Dock Street theater, I even saw some of em one night when I was younger leaving one of the pubs........
Any reason for the Remington Model 1858 .44 C&B having a short grip as opposed to the Colt Model 1851 and Model 1860 ??
That sure is a nice one Terry.
Be sure to let us know how it shoots next week.
Imagine if that one was used by an old time gun
fighter or Sheriff somewhere. Be fun to know the
life and history of a gun like yours.
Chuck
Be sure to let us know how it shoots next week.
Imagine if that one was used by an old time gun
fighter or Sheriff somewhere. Be fun to know the
life and history of a gun like yours.
Chuck
OP
Tunachaser
US Veteran
The owner of a lgs told me not to shoot the thing. I don't understand that but he said I would hurt the collectability of it. I know the thing was being shot when it was put up and I was told that this gun should last another 150 years. I guess if I break something it can't be replaced. He also told me it was only worth about 700 and I think he is full of junk. I turned down 1250 for my 1906 SAA and this should be worth more than that one is, at least it is about 50 years older.
Cooter Brown
Member
TC, if you want to shoot it, shoot it. You may want to have someone who is familiar with BP revolvers look it over to make sure it's mechanically sound, and it would also be nice to have that person along when you first shoot it. Of course you've been around guns enough to be able to tell if something is really wrong with it.
Shooting BP revolvers is not rocket surgery, and Gatfeo gave a very good primer on shooting cap and ball revolvers. Have the right stuff with you, and make sure you have everything you need to clean it properly after you shoot.
As far as value, it's been shot already, and treating it properly during and after shooting now won't really affect it in my mind. The sort of thorough cleaning you'd give it after shooting would be a good thing for it right now anyway--of course you wouldn't have to shoot it to do that.
That's my take, but I'm the sort that feels that if you want an investment, there are better things than old guns. And cap and ball revolvers are seriously fun!
Shooting BP revolvers is not rocket surgery, and Gatfeo gave a very good primer on shooting cap and ball revolvers. Have the right stuff with you, and make sure you have everything you need to clean it properly after you shoot.
As far as value, it's been shot already, and treating it properly during and after shooting now won't really affect it in my mind. The sort of thorough cleaning you'd give it after shooting would be a good thing for it right now anyway--of course you wouldn't have to shoot it to do that.
That's my take, but I'm the sort that feels that if you want an investment, there are better things than old guns. And cap and ball revolvers are seriously fun!
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I would shoot it, loaded correctly and cleaned afterward you're not likely to hurt anything. I shoot an 1848 H. Aston pistol and a rebuilt 1860 Army (original frame with a 2'd gen barrel & cyl) and have had no problems. Black powder guns are fun to shoot and i find the soap & water cleanup easy and fast.
