19-3 w/2.5" barrel

kas9412

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I have the opportunity to purchase a model 19-3 with 2.5" barrel. I am wondering if there would be any difference in inherent accuracy between this gun and one with a 3" barrel, sight radius arguements aside?
 
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No, there won't be. Nor between a 2 1/2" and a 8" either, provided each is loaded with ammo that it is most accurate with. The biggest limitation is the sight radius. The greater the distance between the sight, the more precise the aiming. A slight misalinement on a short barreled revolver is much more magnified than would be same misalinement on a long barreled revolver.
 
+1 what Muley said. If you have a chance to get it at a decent price jump on it. I wouldn't trade mine 19-3 2 1/2 or 6 inch. Great well made guns. Don't miss out.
 
I just bought a 19-4 with a 2 1/2 barrel, and can shoot it nearly as well as my 4 inch version. Amazing gun. Buy it.
 
I just got a 19-2, 2 1/2" on accident. get it period. accurate as any .357 regardless of bbl length. was just regretting selling my 66, and this baby walked into my life... don't wait, just get it! (if you can afford it of course)
 
You will not be sorry if you pick this up. They are sweet little revolvers to shoot and compact enough to carry concealed, at least in the winter.
As for accuracy with the short barrel . . . here's a target I shot with mine off hand at 15 yards last Spring. Decide for yourself.
jp-ak-albums-k-frame-target-revolvers-picture9138-19-3-target.jpg


Edit: Photo restored. I had moved it to a different album a week or so ago, but didn't realize it had disappeared from this thread until now. Sorry for any inconvenience!
 
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I'm with the others that say a short barrel is just as accurate as a longer one...just not quite as easy. I shoot my snubbies just fine and they will group wonderfully if I do my part.

A 2 1/2" 19 or 66 is as good as snubbie revolvers ever got. My son-in-law is a Ruger guy but he opted for the 66 when it came to a carry revolver...can't be beat.

Buy it and enjoy!:)
 

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Thanks to all of you who replied. So taking everyone's advice, I went back to buy it, but alas, it had been sold. :mad: But in its place was a 66 no dash with the 2.5" barrel. This time, I didn't have to think twice, I negotiated $75 off the asking price (it was still way more expensive than most of you guys probably would have paid), and plopped down my money.

I haven't shot it yet, only fondled it! :D

I would post pictures, but I don't have a working camera at the moment. (Spent all my money on guns.)

Just hope it shoots as good as it looks.

Thanks again!
 
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in its place was a 66 no dash with the 2.5" barrel.

While I love the appearance of a beautifully maintained polished blued revolver, all of my revolvers are stainless. They can expect to live in a harsh environment for at least part of their lives. The 2 1/2 is, IMHO, the best all around balanced revolver there is (at least until I fall in love with something else).
 
Thanks to all of you who replied. So taking everyone's advice, I went back to buy it, but alas, it had been sold. :mad: But in its place was a 66 no dash with the 2.5" barrel. This time, I didn't have to think twice, I negotiated $75 off the asking price (it was still way more expensive than most of you guys probably would have paid), and plopped down my money.

I haven't shot it yet, only fondled it! :D

I would post pictures, but I don't have a working camera at the moment. (Spent all my money on guns.)

Just hope it shoots as good as it looks.

Thanks again!

Don't sweat paying "Too much" for a snub 66 no dash, there is no such thing as paying too much for a gun that you want. (Plus P&R 66's are going up in Value every day, so you'll probably end up breaking even sooner rather than later).

Honestly if you plan on carrying it a lot you probably got a better buy with the stainless 66 over the 19. I carry a 2.5" 19 almost exclusively, but over the years it WILL wear on the bluing. Not to mention if you live in a hot humid environment rust can become an issue. All of that is basically naught with a stainless 66.

If you scuff up your 66 carrying it's nothing some flitz or mother's mag polish can't take care of.

Congrats on getting one of the best carry revolvers ever made, just try to avoid using 125 gr .357's a lot. I personally stick to the good ole 158 gr or 135 gr "Short Barrel" loads.
 
+1 on not paying too much for something you want. The fact is that these guns are not made anymore, and they are very desirable. If I find one that is priced in the ballpark of reasonable, and I have the money, I buy it. Not to say I won't try to negotiate, but I would rather have the gun than bragging rights over getting a fabulous deal. You got a wonderful gun that you will surely enjoy, so no regrets on the price. Congratulations.
 
I recently purchased a 19-3 , I got it from the person who bought it from dealer new. It is in perfect condition and appears to be stainless but I am told they did not make a stainless 19-3 with 2.5 in barrel. I am trying to find out the age/mfg date . The frame is stamped 19-3 and the swing out arm for cylinder is stamped G 12 77xxx. The wood grips have been changed to a little larger wood grips and there is a wider piece over the trigger. Any help apppreciated.
 

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I recently purchased a 19-3 . . . appears to be stainless but I am told they did not make a stainless 19-3 with 2.5 in barrel.
Well, actually they did. It is called the Model 66. But the Model 19s, regardless of barrel length, are carbon steel. Yours is nickel plated.

I am trying to find out the age/mfg date . . . wood grips have been changed to a little larger wood grips
We can't help with this until we get the serial number. And the one in the yoke area is not it. You will have to remove those aftermarket grips to see the serial number on the bottom of the grip frame (it will have a K in it). Report that and we can give you an approximate ship date.

there is a wider piece over the trigger
I can't see it in your dark picture, but I assume you are talking about a trigger shoe. Lots of guys added these to revolvers that shipped with standard triggers. It's like a poor-man's target trigger. It should be attached with a couple Allen head screws.

Regards,
Jack
 
Thanks to all the replays but the serial no I gave is correct it is the same under the grips I will send another picture ,I don't understand the G12
 

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By the way,on the right hand corner of the grip frame there is a N stamped in frame. It is to the right of serial no. Thanks
 
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