1903 32 Hand Ejector

[pevtsovy]

Hello, I have what I believe is a 1903 Hand ejector 1st change. 15000 serial number range. According to Supica and Nahass made 1903-1904.

I bought it as a gunsmith special. When I opened it up there is no hand. It has the "S"-shaped trigger return spring and I can see that it is supposed to go into a slot in the hand to return the trigger after firing.

Would anyone be willing to post a picture of what the correct hand looks like? I am looking for a pic of the back side of the hand and the slot the trigger return spring goes through.

 

[Muley Gil]

Welcome to the Forum.

 

[garandsrus]

I posted a picture of the internals in this thread. http://smith-wessonforum.com/s-w-ha...sassembly-question.html?617856=#post140799447

The serial numbers are about 1000 apart.

 

[pevtsovy]

Thank you so much!!!

That is exactly what I needed to see.

I will need to order the early 2-piece hand from Numrich.

You saved me so much time!

 

[Hondo44]

I didn't see the right hand at Numrich.

But do at Jack First:

S&W 1903 .32 Hand Ejector "I" frame, 2nd & 3rd models – Jack First Inc.

 

[StrawHat]

I’ve said it before, Numrich has all the parts you don’t need.

Jack First is the go to supplier for older S&W parts.

Kevin

 

[Hondo44]

I’ve said it before, Numrich has all the parts you don’t need.

Jack First is the go to supplier for older S&W parts.

Kevin

I've never had to resort to Jack First yet, they are way over priced, even on common parts. Though this is one case where it seems to be needed.

 

[pevtsovy]

I know what you mean about Jack First, but when you are the only one making repro parts you can charge what you want.

Spent all night last night on gunbroker and ebay looking for that hand but I guess I'll have to break down and buy it from them.

I bought the 1903 Hand Ejector and a Colt Police Positive so I could learn how to work on them. I have Both of Kuhnhausen's books. The Colt is giving me fits. I'm having to order replacement parts so I don't screw up the originals in the gun, even though they are out of time.

I try to think what a real gunsmith would do. A real gunsmith would probably modify an existing hand and make the part that goes over the trigger return spring.

 

[S&W Oldtimer]

Welcome to the forum.

 

[pevtsovy]

Update#1: received Jack First replacement hand

I received a replacement hand I ordered from Jack First.

I'm very impressed with the quality and heat treating on this part.

The hand was a drop-in fit.

Now the side plate won't go back on. Actually it will and there is a small gap so I guess I'll have to stone down the side of the hand until the side plate will fit.

 

[pevtsovy]

After a closer inspection of the revolver, here are the issues that need to be corrected:

Yoke endshake; yoke to frame gap is .014. Need to reduce to .001

sideplate bent where someone pried it up out of the frame.

firing pin bushing ovaled out.

the little pin that sticks out into the cylinder that the ejector shaft rides on has been broken off.

I don't know what the firing pin protrusion measurement is, but the firing pin is possibly worn down.

Needs new grips.

Barrel to cylinder gap is .25; needs to be .006

 

[DWalt]

Looks like you have a hobby which will fill the hours of Pandemic isolation. I have never seen a barrel-cylinder gap which is anywhere near a quarter-inch.

 

[tenntex32]

Barrel to cylinder gap is .25; needs to be .006

Surely you meant the barrel gap was .025" and not .25" (1/4").

If not I wanna see that thing shoot before you correct it!

 

[pevtsovy]

I peened the end of the yoke and was able to bring the yoke to frame gap down to .003.

I just can't get it any tighter than that. I may try peening the end of the screw that secures the yoke in the frame.

Cylinder gap is next. I have to correct about .026 of cylinder gap.

I have ordered a shim kit from Triggershims.com.

I'm going to correct these two issues and see if it will shoot.