1911 style hammers for model 10s?

[9245]

I like the idea of a bobbed hammer to avoid catching on clothes, but I don’t like the idea of double action only (which is what you’ll have if you don’t have a hammer spur, regardless of the parts), basically, I want a bobbed hammer, but also want to be able to thumb cock.

So I had the idea, what about a rounded 1911 skeleton style hammer spur? It’s rounded to avoid catching on clothes, yet still easily allows thumb cocking.

Does anything like that exist for the model 10?

 

[Alk8944]

Removal of the hammer spur does not inhibit cocking of the hammer using your thumb. just changes how you do it a bit!


Simply use the trigger to raise the hammer about 1/2 way then, while holding the trigger place your thumb over the top of the hammer and pull back, just like if the hammer spur were still there. If you want have a local gunsmith checker or groove the top of the hammer if it would give you more confidence!


If you want to see how S&W does it find one of their double-action automatics that doesn't have a hammer spur. You will see the top of the hammer cross-grooved, and the hammer is initially raised using the trigger.

 

[stansdds]

You can do what Alk8944 recommended, but if you do, do so very carefully so as not to cause an accidental discharge of the firearm. If you don't want to cock it by partially cycling the revolver in double action, why not re-contour and reduce the length of the spur, leaving enough to get a good grip upon for single action operation?

 

[John Patrick]

A shortened hammer spur works pretty well.

Or the grips on the M66, which allow a full length spur to be used. They emulate the features of the M49 and similar Bodyguards and the Colts hammer shroud.

Factory short spur on the 547, grips on M66:

 

[digi-shots]

Here’s a model 36… came to me like this with a partial bobbed hammer.

 

[Green Frog]

I think what the OP has in mind is the style of hammer found on Commander style pistols, a rounded spur with a hole in it and grooves on the surface. I’d never thought of this, but it might be possible. The geometry would be critical so the bottom of the spur would hit the top of the back strap and frame. Just because we haven’t seen it done doesn’t mean it might not work and be useful in some applications.

There are lots of bobbed or broken spor hammers out there, and if I were contemplating this modification, I’d start with one of these and fabricate an appropriately sized disc of steel to weld on and finish… at least that would be my initial strategy. If you do it, OP, please post pictures. We love pictures!

Froggie

 

[Protocall_Design]

It could be done easily enough, with a lathe and tig welder.

 

[Alk8944]

You can do what Alk8944 recommended, but if you do, do so very carefully so as not to cause an accidental discharge of the firearm. If you don't want to cock it by partially cycling the revolver in double action, why not re-contour and reduce the length of the spur, leaving enough to get a good grip upon for single action operation?

THINK for just about 1/2 second about what you said! Even if you slip off the hammer it cannot cause an AD!!!!! This is a S&W afterall, not a single action Colt***. If the trigger is not pulled fully to the rear the hammer cannot fall far enough to strike the primer, it will be caught by the rebound slide, hammer block, and the double-action sear.

Don't believe me??? Try this with any S&W revolver you might have, pull the hammer back normally, just not until fully cocked, and let the hammer drop. What happened? Absolutely nothing!!! If your finger is on the trigger it will be pushed forward by the force of the mainspring.


**** Even with the Colt SAA, or any single-action revolver, the hammer should be caught by the half-cock notch engaging, that is what it is for!

 

[PALADIN85020]

The problem in cocking the hammer to the half-way point by pulling the trigger is that you may inadvertently pull it all the way back past the let-off point. And let me guarantee to you that you will NOT be happy with the result.

John

 

[MP-5]

Are you talking about something like this?

 

[Retired W4]

They are not 6 shot K frames but consider the 38, 49, 638, 649.

 

[Frailer]

Not a Model 10, but I’ve lusted over this revolver on Hamilton Bowen’s web site for *years.*

 

[9245]

I think what the OP has in mind is the style of hammer found on Commander style pistols, a rounded spur with a hole in it and grooves on the surface. I’d never thought of this, but it might be possible. The geometry would be critical so the bottom of the spur would hit the top of the back strap and frame. Just because we haven’t seen it done doesn’t mean it might not work and be useful in some applications.

There are lots of bobbed or broken spor hammers out there, and if I were contemplating this modification, I’d start with one of these and fabricate an appropriately sized disc of steel to weld on and finish… at least that would be my initial strategy. If you do it, OP, please post pictures. We love pictures!

Froggie

Exactly that. Here are some pictures of that style hammer, just picture that style spur on a Model 10, I think it would be a good compromise. I experimented with the partial trigger pull idea last night, I hadn’t thought of it but it does work, however I found it a bit awkward and it produced some (dry fire) NDs, it could work with practice but I have safety concerns.

 

[9245]

Are you talking about something like this?

YES! That is pretty much exactly what I mean.

 

[9245]

The problem in cocking the hammer to the half-way point by pulling the trigger is that you may inadvertently pull it all the way back past the let-off point. And let me guarantee to you that you will NOT be happy with the result.

John

Precisely what happened when I attempted that dry fire last night, it’s possible, but so is an ND.

 

[steelslaver]

2 of the J&G gunsmith specials I bought only had 1/2 of the spur. You don't have to rake the whole spur off.
Made this one a 3" 327 mag. You could take about 1/2 of what is left off and still use it fine

If you decide to weld on a hammer, remove sear spring and hammer nose spring if it has one. Temps above 800f will wreck them. Clam the bottom of hammer where sear is in some heavy steel of brass blocks to soak up heat. You do not want that area above say 350f or it will get softer. Use a tig torch, fine control and focused heat to make the weld.

Personally I think just a stubbed well rounded spur with some lines on top would work as well as a loop.

I have several spurless guns. I have cocked them and fired single action as described above and never cranked one of before I planned to. But, I don't fire those guns that way often 99% of my carry gun practice is done DA. Might fire them a few times to see what they are capable of but thats it. Basically once they are spurless they are like my "hammerless" revolves. A body guard, a 296 and a 640.

 

[Mbrgr1]

I always liked the folding spur....

Like on this old M&H, not sure why it didn't catch on?

 

[9245]

Like on this old M&H, not sure why it didn't catch on?

I love that idea, I don’t know why that didn’t catch on either.

But then I don’t know why Merwin and Hulbert didn’t
Catch on either…

 

[StrawHat]

A commercial spur on a S&W? Sure! With enough money and a good gunsmith most things are possible. I recommend Andy Horvath for the job.

Kevin

 

[murphydog]

If you can put up with the appearance of it, Bianchi used to make Lightning grips for a K frame, turning it into a Bodyguard-like shrouded hammer. No cutting or welding needed.