1911 trigger change out

[Faulkner]

Although I own three 1911A1's and I enjoy shooting them, I don't really consider myself a "1911 guy", so this is being written by basically a 1911 newbie. If I don't use the correct terminology you real 1911 guys can go ahead and make fun of me, it won't hurt my feelings.

After a few hundred rounds through my recently purchased commander sized Tisas 1911 I have been very pleased with it, and not a single malfunction of any kind. I decided, though, I wanted to tinker with it and replace the trigger with an aluminum black anodized lightened tactical trigger similar to the one on my Springfield Fully Loaded 1911A1. I noted that when I bought the replacement trigger that "some fitting may be required".

In all the years I've owned a 1911 I have never detail stripped one but figured how hard could it be. Actually, it wasn't all that hard, but then again I don't have problems field stripping a Ruger MKII and MKIII, so maybe I just have adequate motor skills for such things.

Now, to the "some fitting may be required" note on the new trigger. Wow, that was an understatement. Once I got the 1911 disassembled, the new trigger would just would not fit. I started off with some buffing on the bottom of the trigger, and then could tell it was dragging on the left side as well so did some buffing there. In the end, I had to fetch the Dremel tool and search through a few YouTube videos to get instructions. Eventually I had to use the Dremel to stone off a good bit off the bottom and left side as well as a bit on the right side before the trigger would easily fit and work effortlessly in the channel. Once I got it "trimmed" out so it fit properly I had to refinish the trigger. After about a three hour investment in time I got the new trigger working quite smoothly.

It was additional learning experience to get the 1911 reassembled, but now I know how it's done. Problem is, the new trigger was NOT to my liking. I just didn't like it. I even took it out and fired a few magazines through it and decided I liked the original trigger better, so back to the work bench we went and repeated the disassembly process, put the factory trigger back in, and reassembled it. The second go 'round was much faster since I knew what to expect. I took it back out and ran a couple more magazines through it and decided, yeah, the factory trigger was just fine.

I really enjoyed learning more about 1911's with this project even though the new trigger didn't work to my liking. I have to admit, though, after 25 years of working with Glocks, they are so much simpler.

 

[Ivan the Butcher]

When I was building 1911's in the 80's and 90's, I ran into a tight trigger channel once. Rather than work on the "trigger bow", I used Jewlers Files and cleared the frame cut. It appears your trigger was out of spec. in more than one way, I would have exchanged or returned it.

I found that the sear, disconnector engagement and leftmost finger on the mainspring are where the trigger is best adjusted. I personally won't regrind a sear and do all the adjustment with the spring tension or replace the sear and disconnector (with either Colt or Wilson parts only). Also, Wilson makes a Mainspring with the leftmost finger split into two. That is what I use exclusively on repairs now!

Ivan

 

[Puller]

{snip}

In all the years I've owned a 1911 I have never detail stripped one but figured how hard could it be. Actually, it wasn't all that hard, but then again I don't have problems field stripping a Ruger MKII and MKIII, so maybe I just have adequate motor skills for such things.

{snip}

Makes me ponder how many people who complain about Ruger MKII's and MKIII's have ever detail stripped a 1911? Neither are really all that difficult after the first time.

 

[arjay]

I’ve swapped parts in quite a few over the years and after market triggers usually need a bit off of of the top and/or the bottom,but I don’t recall the sides needing work

 

[H Richard]

Back in the 80's when I couldn't afford a new custom fitted gun I decided to build my own. Started with a Springfield Armory basic GI model, and turned it into a competition pistol. I probably stripped and reassembled it several hundred times fitting trigger, sear, grip safety, thumb safety, extended mag release, mag well, new barrel, bushing, etc. I did wind up with a very accurate .45 with a 4 lb trigger and it was used in IPSC/USPSA competition. When you go this route be prepared to ruin a few parts as you learn how.

 

[Grayfox]

The 1911 is a very easy gun to work on and probably the best to learn home gunsmithing with. Its also quite forgiving of mistakes.
I prefer a long trigger in my guns and have changed a bunch of them. I sometimes need to trim the top or bottom just a bit. But rarely the sides.
Being that a Tisas is basically a bargain brand, I'm guessing the trigger channel in yours was a tad out of spec. No big deal, you got it working and that's what counts.

 

[Eric300]

By the looks of your parts laid out it appears that your 1911 is a Series 70 model? I don't see the firing pin plunger, spring, trigger lever, etc. of the Series 80 in the pic. Those part can add a bit more re-assembly frustration, but still not difficult. And yeah, Glocks are a bit easier. I can do them blind folded.

 

[Faulkner]

By the looks of your parts laid out it appears that your 1911 is a Series 70 model?

Yep, it's a series 70.

 

[03hemi]

Makes me ponder how many people who complain about Ruger MKII's and MKIII's have ever detail stripped a 1911? Neither are really all that difficult after the first time.

I agree, I counted the parts once in the 1911 and I believe they're something around 20~ give or take, that sound about right?

 

[Ivan the Butcher]

From your above photo there are 29 parts, not counting the tube staked on the frame and the sights on the frame. Also not counting the 4 grip screw bushings. That makes 36. And don't forget the magazine, that's another 3!

With some of the specialty kits you can get in the low 40's.

Ivan

 

[smithra_66]

That's how you learn. Now you'll know how to do it for you next 1911.

Many people would just pay someone to do it, and they never learn anything except how to write a check.

 

[Ivan the Butcher]

That's how you learn. Now you'll know how to do it for you next 1911.

Many people would just pay someone to do it, and they never learn anything except how to write a check.

My best friend taught me in 1983 when we each built a Frankingun. I still have an index of parts, but only do repairs for friends and family.

Ivan

 

[Tex1001]

When I started 'smithing on 1911s back in the middle ages it seemed that trigger stirrup dimensions were all over the map.
I got a stirrup alignment tool to make sure they were in spec. This one has paid for itself many times over:

BROWNELLS 1911 TRIGGER STIRRUP DIE | Brownells

 

[stansdds]

Because of the vast number of companies that have made 1911's, slides, and receivers, and the even greater number of companies that have made the small parts, there can be quite a bit of dimensional variation in all those parts. Sometimes a part swap goes without a hitch, then there are all the other times when fitting is required. Sometimes a part, or even worse, a slide or receiver, is so far outside the design parameters that fitting requires substantial work and occasionally proves to be impossible.

 

[03hemi]

From your above photo there are 29 parts, not counting the tube staked on the frame and the sights on the frame. Also not counting the 4 grip screw bushings. That makes 36. And don't forget the magazine, that's another 3!

With some of the specialty kits you can get in the low 40's.

Ivan

Still low don't ya think comparatively to some other autos? Have you ever taken apart one of the 3rd gen S&W 10mm's? Man, talk about a bunch of tiny pieces? jeesh!

 

[Ivan the Butcher]

One of the problems a friend ran into was: Buying parts labeled "Mil. Spec.", Other countries have 1911's and militaries! Their mil spec isn't the same as our mil spec!

Ivan

 

[PALADIN85020]

John Browning designed the M1911 so it could be disassembled and re-assembled completely with no tools - just using some parts to work on others. I learned to do this when I was in my early 20s, and it's still a snap.

I wrote an article on how to do it many years ago; it can still be found here:

The 1911 Pistol is its own toolbox

John

 

[Faulkner]

John Browning designed the M1911 so it could be disassembled and re-assembled completely with no tools - just using some parts to work on others. I learned to do this when I was in my early 20s, and it's still a snap.

I wrote an article on how to do it many years ago; it can still be found here:

The 1911 Pistol is its own toolbox

John

Excellent article John. I note in the first paragraph it says, "although 90 years have elapsed since the pistol was adopted for service . . . . "

Since you wrote that in 2001, it's now been 110 years since the 1911 was adopted for service. My, how time flies.

 

[BE Mike]

If you have time and patience, you can really make that 1911 "sing". Although a number of expensive machines and skill in using them, will make things go fast and accurate, anything they do can be done with files, stones and sandpaper, IF one goes very slow. Here is a great way to learn about the 1911: Kuhnhausen Books & Videos | Books | Videos - MidwayUSA

 

[minconrevo]

1911 triggers are either drop-in spec or gunsmith fit. Gunsmith fit are usually too tall. Those require a little careful removal of trigger pad material from the top and/or bottom of the pad. Outside of removal of burr's, it's best to leave the frame trigger channel alone. The channel can be cleaned up with special stones and files intended for the purpose.

Some folks like the short pad trigger and others prefer the long; try 'em out and run what you like.