1917 Hammer Question

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Are they unique or do other prewar hammers fit? I ask because the 1917 I bought a few days back is currently DAO. I have no idea if it's intentional or the result of 100 year old gunk. Double action feels clean and smooth.
 
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This is a long shot, but if cleaning doesn't help take a look at the hooks on the hammer spring. I replaced the hammer spring in a 2nd Model .44 and unintentionally made it DAO because the hooks on the hammer spring would touch the back of the hammer as it approached the fully cocked position. Double action worked fine, but single action would not work because the hammer could not travel back far enough to engage the sear.

There are pictures in post #20 of this thread that show what was happening.
 
This is a long shot, but if cleaning doesn't help take a look at the hooks on the hammer spring. I replaced the hammer spring in a 2nd Model .44 and unintentionally made it DAO because the hooks on the hammer spring would touch the back of the hammer as it approached the fully cocked position. Double action worked fine, but single action would not work because the hammer could not travel back far enough to engage the sear.

There are pictures in post #20 of this thread that show what was happening.

Interesting...I'll check that when I open it up.
 
My gun came home, and I have to say I have little idea what I am looking at in a pre-war .45! Turns out it's a 2nd model Hand Ejector. And, thanks to this group, after I turned the strain screw back in to where it should be it's working like a charm!

A thread is no good without at least one picture. It came with Goodyears but I had this set of Altamont's hanging around...
 

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My gun came home, and I have to say I have little idea what I am looking at in a pre-war .45! Turns out it's a 2nd model Hand Ejector. And, thanks to this group, after I turned the strain screw back in to where it should be it's working like a charm!

A thread is no good without at least one picture. It came with Goodyears but I had this set of Altamont's hanging around...

I was reading thru this thread and was going to suggest you check the strain screw. You beat me to it. I had the exact same happen with a 586.
 
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The second "5" is missing from the ".455" on the eft side of the barrel. I beleive yours has been converted to .45 Colt.

Yup a previous owner peened over the second 5. It won't chamber a .45 Colt cartridge so some guesses have been the cylinder was shaved for .45 acp. I won't be shooting any of those through it! I'm on the lookout for some Auto Rim, that should work well.

I've no idea of value for this one. I picked it up for a little more that 4 bills out the door. Looking at GB it seems I got a pretty good deal. She's got some scratches and dings but overall not too bad. The only evidence of rust is near the lanyard ring hole, and I"m working on that.
 
If you decide to use .45 ACP, be aware that factory ammo is about 25% hotter than the .455 ammo that this revolver originally chambered. .45 Auto Rim is loaded lighter and is safe in these conversions.

1917 revolvers were heat treated. These .455s weren't.
 
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