1931/1932 K22 Outdoorsman Repair Needed

[Willeys]

I live around the Dayton-Cincinnati area. My S&W K22 Outdoorsman needs repair to the hammer cocking and release action. Except for the repairs needed, it is in prime condition and if possible I would like it repaired with S&W parts. Does anyone have a recommendation for a gunsmith in Ohio?

 

[series guy]

Andy Horvath, Diagonal Road Gun Shop, La grange, Ohio

 

[JH1951]

Andy Horvath, Diagonal Road Gun Shop, La grange, Ohio

I will second that recommendation.
He has been around a long time and does some very impressive work.

 

[Wiregrassguy]

The action on a S&W K frame is not too difficult to work on. Are you uncomfortable doing the work yourself? Factory replacement parts are not available for these old guns but previously used parts and, sometimes, surplus OEM parts are. Your gun is a Model 1905, 4th Change which is the same as the WWII Victory revolvers before the change in the safety hammer block. So, lots of spare parts for the military handguns are out there that you can use, except the hammer. Would you consider letting one of our experts walk you through your own repairs?

 

[Rodan]

Not in Ohio, but Nelson Ford in Phoenix is one of the best in the country on S&Ws, and he really digs K22s.

The Gunsmith, Inc.

 

[Spurdann]

Ryan Spence is close to Dayton Ohio. I have used his services several times and am happy with his work.

Look up spencegunsmithing

 

[Green Frog]

To those offering advice: Remember, he's dealing with a rimfire K-22, so it has a different hammer from the bulk of the pre-War K frames that are centerfire. If he needs a hammer, he needs a pre-War, non hammer block hammer.
Froggie

 

[Willeys]

Thank you for all your recommendations. While I am comfortable taking things apart that work and putting them back together, but when it stops working, I prefer experience eyes and hands to do the work. This old 22 deserves experience hands

 

[Wiregrassguy]

To those offering advice: Remember, he's dealing with a rimfire K-22, so it has a different hammer from the bulk of the pre-War K frames that are centerfire. If he needs a hammer, he needs a pre-War, non hammer block hammer.
Froggie

Since I'm the only responder who offered anything but the name of a gunsmith, I presume you are referring to my post. If you will take the time to actually read the post you will see that I stated parts are equivalent except for the hammer.

 

[Keith Brown]

Can you better describe what its not doing, perhaps a video. Im in the Dayton area also, don't know the name Ryan Spence but if its an easy drive that might be a good place to start. Might just be very dirty inside, they sometimes are even when looking clean outside. Ive bought several that had what seemed like serious issues that were just fine after a deep clean and proper lubrication

 

[Willeys]

Keith, good idea. I had avoided removing the side plate for fear some broken part would fly off never to be found. However, I will take that step.

 

[Green Frog]

Sorry Guy, no offense meant. My only defense is that I hadn't finished my morning coffee and wasn't all the way awake. David Wilson and I went through a similar hunt nearly a decade ago when he found an otherwise nice HFT (I frame, of course) with a broken hammer. We could find lots of hammers for the 32/38 CFs, but I'm not sure that he has ever found one for his 22.

Anyway, that factor was stuck in my craw then as well as now and I wanted to make sure Willeys was aware of it. I should have said, "As Wiregrassguy said, 'the hammer is different'." Mea culpa, and please excuse.

Green Frog

 

[rct269]

Keith, good idea. I had avoided removing the side plate for fear some broken part would fly off never to be found. However, I will take that step.

On the off chance you may not be familiar with the proper removal of the sideplate, prying it off is a BIG NO-NO----never mind what you may have seen from the experts (??) on You Tube. Let us know if are need of any assistance with that procedure.

Ralph Tremaine

 

[Willeys]

Just a follow up to some of your questions.
When I pull the trigger, the cylinder advances one chamber and the cylinder stop locks the cylinder, however the hammer does not rise or cock by pulling the trigger. However, when I manually pull the hammer back, the cylinder advances one chamber and locks. After the hammer is set, I can pull the trigger to release the hammer and fire. Now I after working the hammer a few times, the double action works, then stops working. I have never used this gun, maybe needs a good cleaning??)

For removing the side plate, I learned the proper use of a screwdriver to remove the side plate is to use the screwdriver handle. Use the handle or similar handle to strike the frame of the grip. The side plate just pops up and easily removed.

 

[series guy]

The double action sear is a spring loaded lever attached to the hammer. A broken spring or gummed up action can cause your issue. There's a 50/50 chance that removing the side plate and cleaning the action will solve your problem.

 

[rct269]

Just a follow up to some of your questions.
When I pull the trigger, the cylinder advances one chamber and the cylinder stop locks the cylinder, however the hammer does not rise or cock by pulling the trigger. However, when I manually pull the hammer back, the cylinder advances one chamber and locks. After the hammer is set, I can pull the trigger to release the hammer and fire. Now I after working the hammer a few times, the double action works, then stops working. I have never used this gun, maybe needs a good cleaning??)

For removing the side plate, I learned the proper use of a screwdriver to remove the side plate is to use the screwdriver handle. Use the handle or similar handle to strike the frame of the grip. The side plate just pops up and easily removed.

Yes, indeed---noting sometimes more than one such strike may be required-------and hammer handles (wooden or plastic) are usually larger/heavier than screwdriver handles--and make for more rump-rump.

Ralph Tremaine

 

[Keith Brown]

This is an M&P Target bought off GB, looked clean and neat in add, appeared lightly used and well maintained. Once in hand found out it would not advance cylinder occasionally and was a little sluggish. Took a good soak and scrubbing but once reassembled and properly lubed the timing was perfect and worked very smoothly.

The closeup is a toothpick and a bamboo skewer cut to clean out screw slots before attempting to remove. The screwdriver can't go in like it should if the slot is full of 100 year old crud.

 

[rct269]

As an aside, accumulations of crud as shown in Mr. Brown's photos are properly treated by a complete disassembly (a 3-4 minute task), and a good soak/scrub/rinse in an effective solvent (such as Mineral Spirits----dirt cheap and very effective), followed by drying/lubrication and reassembly.

Should you be a fan of miracle solvents in spray cans, you may wish to rethink your procedure.

Ralph Tremaine