1971 Chief's Special Model 36, general questions

You're over thinking the age issue. Age is immaterial, it's the condition that matters. Just as an FYI, one of my frequent carry guns is a pre model 37 (The airweight version of the model 36) that dates to 1957. And I definitely recommend that you DO NOT remove the side plate unless the gun is a "Beater" that you're using for learning.
 
Your photos show a beautiful gun, but foremost, you should shoot it at a range before you carry it to make sure you can hit something with it.
My Model 36 doesn't shoot to point of aim (shoots low) whereas my larger fram snubbies (Model 10s) do.
George
 
Your photos show a beautiful gun, but foremost, you should shoot it at a range before you carry it to make sure you can hit something with it.
My Model 36 doesn't shoot to point of aim (shoots low) whereas my larger fram snubbies (Model 10s) do.
George

Good to know George, and thank you for the kind words.
 
When I first got my CCW license I bought a 642 and it's a great gun, but if I knew as much about guns then as I do now I would of definatly looked for a 36 to carry. They are fine little guns just made to carry. Enjoy the gun!
 
So who says you are stuck? There are lots of decent Chiefs Specials for sale out there at reasonable prices. Hunt one down, buy it and carry it. Life's short. Enjoy!

There were three other 36's from the same collection up for sale. The differences appeared to be in the shape of the grip and the release. Of course, this could be my considerable lack of knowledge rearing its ugly head. All of the guns were from the same owner. In talking with the gentlemen at the counter he told me there are a lot of these guns out there. So, this newbie says go for it!
 
CoMF, and and Chief 38, thanks so much for the insight. I'm definitely weighing my options.

I noticed small amounts of surface rust, I was told 0000 steel wool or preferably bronze or brass with oil would do the trick and not damage the finish. I'll do a search and see what I find.

You can see in one of the photos where it appears the finish is checked, perhaps lightly pitted? Rust perhaps removed at some point.

IF you take any type of steel wool or other to it, dip it in oil 1st. Bob
 
'Bout time you posted photos of your new acquisition. :D

That Chief's in gorgeous shape. Mine wasn't NIB, but it was pretty close to yours in cosmetics when I first bought it. There were also some very small spots on the cylinder where either the bluing didn't take or there was minor rust from storage. No big deal. Also doesn't bother me in the least that my EDC will technically be a "curio and relic" in another 7 years or so.

Oh, and mine's a square butt...


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'Bout time you posted photos of your new acquisition. :D

You guys are seriously knowledgeable around here, and I know the difference between a suggestion and a threat ;)

Mine wasn't NIB, but it was pretty close to yours in cosmetics when I first bought it.

Wow, they look almost identical. I noticed they both have some finish removed near the bottom of the crane (<correct term?)

Thanks for sharing.
 
One of my carry guns is a mid '60's 36. When I got it, I removed the stocks, sprayed a solvent type cleaner a couple of times, and then used CLP. Unless there are issues with the action, I wouldn't remove the side plate, as something thing I look at when examining a S&W is the fit of the plate to the frame. Very easy to raise metal around the plate edges to form a minute, but noticeable, ridge.
 
Sorry, a little off-topic.
OK...lube it like they said, pamper it like they said...But then load it with .38 special SWC's and carry that bad boy in your pocket.
I bought two...1968...carried it in my right front Wrangler's pocket every time I left the house. My son got married, now his new wife carries it in her purse.
Bought a replacement with surface rust and a chipped hammer. Bobbed the hammer rather than replace it...carried it in my right front Wrangler's pocket every time I left the house. Then, my wife took it from me and carries it in her car.
Now I carry a .357 Ruger LCR in my right front Wrangler's pocket. Not as comfortable, but I got it for a great price. BUT, when I come across another Model 36 for a good price, I will retire the Ruger and........
Carry a Model 36 in my right front Wrangler's pocket every time I leave the house.
I'm not a collector, I'm a user.
Use your newly acquired, wonderful tool. I think that's what S&W designed it for.
 
Nice older Smith----many would like such as a collector piece---having box and all.

Think about locking it up somewhere and see where the value/demand goes for a few years

Buy a current 638 and carry IT.

Don't mess with the screws/sideplate.

IMHO
 
I just happen to be carrying my 1968 Model 36, 3", as I type.

It makes a very nice, light weight, sidearm for around the house use.

I see no reason to take it apart....It ain't broke - don't mess with it!!

ENJOY............
 
Nice older Smith----many would like such as a collector piece---having box and all.

Think about locking it up somewhere and see where the value/demand goes for a few years

Buy a current 638 and carry IT.

Don't mess with the screws/sideplate.

IMHO

I thought about that, the box had the original paperwork, warranty card, manual and bore brush and tool, yet I feel like this piece was designed to be used and I feel like it would be a shame to keep it in a box for another 40 years. I wanted a reliable 38 and I think I got one. (My other 38, a 442 is having light primer strikes and I wouldn't trust my life with it).

I agree with you, and the other posters in that I am definitely not going to take the side plate off.
 
I hope you can find a real SW gunsmith somewhere. That 442 should e an ideal piece. I do not know much about gunsmithing---but I have watched a gunsmith open up a 442 in order to light the action.

He lightened the main spring improving the trigger pull but then---- removed a bit of material from what is an internal obstacle (part of the frame) inside that limits the forward travel of the hammer----the Gunsmith removed some of this so the hammer would transfer more force on the firing pin smacking the primer.
 
The 442 has a lifetime warranty, correct? I would call S&W about sending it in for repair.

Nice looking Model 36 BTW.
 
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