2.5" or 3" - what to buy?

I'm looking for a discussion on 2.5 vs 3 inch barrel lengths. I own two 66-3's with the 2.5" barrel and am thinking I also want a 3". I used to own a 3" 66 F-Comp (with lock) and regret selling it. My Dad has a 3" 65LS so I know I like the size, balance, and scalloped semi-lugged barrel.

So perhaps the issue I'm questioning is new/old, 66/686, lock/nolock. Finding an old, prelock, 3" 66 is hard. On the other hand I can pick up a new 3" 686 tomorrow at my local shop. Should I just go for the L frame and not worry about looking for the right K frame?

Sir, taking these in order (and IMHO):

1. Old
2. 66
3. No lock

Save your pennies, bide your time, and get what you really want.

That said, a bigger question is whether a 3-inch gun is noticeably superior to the 2-1/2-inch guns you already have. IMHO it is not, and I've had both.

The 3-inch guns are faddish right now, so you'll pay for that, and the performance increase does not nearly match the price increase. Full-stroke ejection is an improvement, but the differences in sight radius, recoil, noise, and balance are all negligible. If you want noticeable improvements here, step up to a 4-inch gun.

Of course, if you just want the 3-inch gun because it's a cool thing, then have at it.

Again, JMHO, FWIW.

Hope this helps, and Semper Fi.

Ron H.
 
Two new and interesting pieces of information that I've never thought of in a revolver - bore axis and trigger timing.

Every time I pick up an automatic I think of the height of the bore axis but its never occured to me to measure this in a revolver. I'll have to lay out my K and L with a dowel through the barrels to observe this measurement.

And of course the timing of the trigger and lockwork would necessarily be shorter with 7 or 8 round cylinder. 45 or 51.4 degrees of rotation per shot vs 60, why I'll bet even Jerry Miculek's timing would be affected (or not).

Again thanks for all the advice.
 
In my mind, a 2.5"-3" 66/65, at 32 oz and 7 7/8" OAL, is a bit big for a pocket gun. I have a 642 and 296, each with a Mika pocket holster & boot grips, for fast presentation, as pocketable protectors. A standard hammer, again, in my mind, belongs in an OWB holster. That line of reasoning made the UDR pictured a valid choice for holster carry - even at 37.6 oz & 7 5/8" OAL. I liked it so well, I sold an old friend to buy another one - as a house defender! It's a Performance Center revolver - with several nice added goodies, too. I can shoot it as well as I do my 4" 627 Pro - a 2.5" - 3" barrel is 'sufficient' for some decent plinking.

Oddly, that line of reasoning, larger is a better 'deal', led to the CRK Umnumzaan shown, too. I wanted a 'nice' little knife to commemorate my getting my first SS retirement check... and went a bit overboard there, too. And - the tired references to 'The Lock' and current production being inferior - need to be addressed. I think it's hideous - and hate paying extra for it's parts - but it's a fact of life, ever since it was introduced nearly ten years ago - during Bush's reign. Guess how much S&W has had to spend defending themselves against lawsuits over it's operation? ZERO! It is a 'necessary evil', if you want to buy something recent, of course, it'll have an IL. Even my 642-2 pocket gun still sports it's IL.

Oddly, I had a 2" 10, a 10-11 bought new 9/03, when my wife decided she wanted a 3" 65 - like the LS version. That 2" 10, standing and hand held with my plinker loads, could ping steel plates at 100-110yd 3-4 times out of 6 once I found the elevation 'drop' - unreal plinker! I bought a late 80's production 3" 65, a security guard company trade-in, from a mail order store. Lots of scratches/dings, but very little use - new inside, in fact. Cleaned up - goncalo alves rounded fg Hogues fitted to her hand, and she liked the 65 - just couldn't hit the broadside of a barn with it (It was her!) - especially with +P 158gr LHPSWC's. She declared my 2" 10 hers - and I put those fitted Hogues on it - instant sharpshooter - with the same ammo. Go figure. I sold the 65 - too cheaply. I miss the 2" 10 - it's 'her' gun now - a car gun - her pocket gun is a Seecamp .32... barf!!

If I had a 2.5" K-frame, I wouldn't sell the farm for a 3"-er, JMHO.

Stainz

PS One thing the K-frames, with partial or no lug, have over the L-frames, etc, is the feeling of balance. Nothing feels as natural in the hand as a 4" 64, 65, 66, or 67. The shorter barrel models - and my 6" 66 - cannot match that natural pointing, either - it seems, to me, solely a trait of the 4"-er. Oddly, the difference in trigger feel between my 6-7-8 shooters seems minimal - and easily managed.
 
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A big + for the 65, 3-inch! I only have one, a -5. It does CC and nightstand duty loaded with 158gr. SWCHP+Ps, and boonies duty with 158gr or heavier .357 loads. I think it's my favorite!
 
Went to show in Marietta today, saw an interesting 640 (all steel, pre-lock) for $549 and a 2.5" 66-5, also pre-lock and with the new sight for $599. The new airweights were flying off the table with S&W's rebates, down in the low $300's.
 
I have owned both. This may sound strange but to me it depends on the individual revolver. I have owned the 2.5" barrel K frames that I liked better than the 3" ones I owned. Also the other way around. The fit, finish and how it shoots means a lot more to me than 1/2" of barrel leingth more or less.
 
To me the 3" 66 is the perfect blend of weight, balance and feel. Current prices just reflect supply and demand. Just about everyone prefers the older Smiths with forged parts vs MIM. With so few pre MIM 3" 66s being made prices will always be high and continue to climb, they are just great revolvers.
 

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How do the smaller framed 65, 66's handle full bore 357 Mag loads? I've never shot or owned a K or J framed Smith.
 
I've always favored the heavier 357 Magnum loads 140/158 grn. I have shot lighter 125 grn loads and never had a forcing cone problem. I've heard of K frame forcing cones cracking from constant use of light 125 grn 357 Magnum loads but have never seen one. I think most people use 38 Specials for practise and save the Mag loads for field use. My favorite carry load is the Winchester 38 Special +P 158 grn LHP Chicago police load. If I was to carry a Magnum load it would be the 158 Speer Gold Dot which really shoots well in my 66.
But to answer your question the Model 66 or any other K frame stands up very well to 357 Magnum loads. I again recommend 158 grn loads as they are easier on the forcing cones.
 

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Which would handle better while shooting?

Do you think the port on the 66 F-Comp or the added weight of the N Frame 627?

Let me play devil's advocate...

Guess what costs $121 MSRP more than a 2.5"/3" 686+ - and only weighs 3 oz more?

IMG_4546.jpg


A 2.5"-3" K/L frame is not much easier to conceal than the 2 5/8" PC627 UDR. Just a thought...

Stainz
 
I have Model 19, 66 and 686+ in 2 1/2 inch. I find the K frames a little nicer to shoot but the L frame isn't a bad one either. All carry well in pancake style holsters for me.

Three inch anything are almost non-existant around here and sell for a premium when found. I might spend the money for one as I have for some three inch N frames but the 2 1/2 inch work okay for me.
 
I've had both; a 2.5" Model 19, and now a 3" Model 65LS.

I prefer the 3" for these reasons:

1) carrys better. The 2.5" in a K-frame is too "chunky" in the IWB or OWB holster, IMO. It's like carrying a baseball. The 3" barrel nicely smoothes out the balance and weight distribution. The extra half-inch especially helps lower the center of gravity if you are carrying IWB.

2) better ejection of empties with a 3" barrel.

3) better velocity with a 3" barrel; you don't have to rely exclusively on those specialty 'short-barrel magnum loads.'

4) better sight radius, FWIW. I use my carry guns for self defesne and never use sights anyway. But the 3" points better and allows me to index a bit more recisely on the target.

5) overall better balance, but this is subjective.

6) potentially better resale value
 
Thanks again for all the input - I decided to trade one of my 2.5" 66 for a 3" 65LS. The more I handle K frames the more I want to concentrate on that size only. I may even dump my 686 SSR to get another K.

Further testing is needed on ballistics. The second pic shown here is of two spent rounds. On the left is a .38sp, 158gr, LSWCHP+P recovered from inside a water filled milk jug - not good penetration. On the right is a .38sp, 158gr, RLN recovered in the ground just beyond a milk jug. Both were shot from either the 2.5" or 3" barrel. I'm going to set up a larger test just to see what happens.
 

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I own 2 cs-1 three inch, a 66-3 three inch, a 66-1 2 1/2 inch and 65-2 three inch. TO CARRY MY 65 THREE INCH WORKS THE BEST.
 
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