Pawnshopping a Model 66-4 or -5 snubbie

Crh1943

Member
Joined
Apr 16, 2018
Messages
209
Reaction score
74
Location
S. FL
Hello guys and gals,

Was out yesterday with some free time, so I decided to head out to some local pawnshops to do some "window shopping".
While there, saw an old Mauser from 1942 in great shape, a Hakim Egyptian rifle (thing looks like you could use it to pound stakes in the ground it's so heavy and bulky), and quite a few older S&W revolvers.

There was some Model 10's, a Victory model from WWII, Colts and some newer pieces like a 686-6 4". After browsing several more models, I saw that 66 snubbie. I don't remember what dash it was, but it was a pre-lock 2.5". Great condition and all, with the big rubber grips that do not make the gun look symmetrical at all. I did not get a good look at the price as I was not interested at the moment, but I believe they wanted $600 or so for it. Not sure if it came with box/docs. They would negotiate.

So guys and gals, here is the question;
as far as a carry piece, what are the advantages besides the small barrel and K frame size? I would of course get boot grips as long as it is a round butt, and actually would only be interested it it WAS a round butt due to the carry factor.

The thing that turns me off is the ejector rod size. If I was even going to shoot .357 from it, I am worried about failure to extract the rounds due to the lack of ejector rod/round size factor. I have been looking for a Model 65, 13 or some other type of 3" K frame r/b for carry for a good while now, and that extra .5" gives you a full size (or close to) ejector rod. L frames have been considered, but I would rather them in a 4" or bigger configuration.

Any thoughts? I would buy it for the "cool" factor, but I'd rather have a carry gun than a collector's piece. Your insight is appreciated very much

-Crh1943
 
Register to hide this ad
This is purely my opinion so ymmv. If I had the cash I wouldn't let the 66 get away. BUT I think that you'll still be longing for the 65/13 so if I could only afford 1 I wouldn't get the 66 expecting to fill that want.
 
I see the only problem with extraction here is getting your wallet out of your pocket fast enough :). $500 or so would be an excellent price for a 2 1/2" model 66.

Practically, many empties from low pressure rounds will nearly fall out of the cylinder with the muzzle pointed upward. Doing the same and pushing on the (even short) ejector rod will almost always get the empties to clear. Good luck in your decision.
 
If memory serves, we had a recent thread about someone walking away from a 2.5 inch 66 at $700 plus tax versus $700 out the door. Several commenters provided a tongue lashing suggesting there would never be another snub for sale for less than $700. Might be a bit of an exaggeration but if you can find a nice one for $500-$600 you won't regret buying it. Good luck.

Jeff
SWCA #1457
 
There was a 66-1 with 2.5" barrel that sold for $1376. last week on GB.

So you have got to assume that both buyer and seller are happy campers.
 
I have a 66-1 2.5" that I got about 8 years ago, it hadn't been fired much and came with the box, etc. It's one of my favorites and the short ejector rod isn't a problem as long as you allow gravity to be your friend.
 
You can't go wrong these days within a 2-1/2" M66 at or under $600 if it's in great condition, even without the box and docs. (If they're included - bonus!) My preference for a 3" 13/65 is based on the sites, not the ejector rod. Worst that can happen you finally find that 3"er and want it you can sell the 66 for what that one will cost you. (Or you might fall in love with the 66 and stop looking.)
 
As many of these guns that are out there one thing is for sure, they will never make any more. If you can live without it then by all means attempt to shop around, I assure you if you wait too long it will end up in someone else's safe.
 
You don't have any pictures of that Victory Model do you? The ejector in my airlite J frame 357 works great, so I suspect the K frame would be fine too.
 
Thanks for all the replies everyone (especially the humorous ones) .

I do not have pics of anything I saw. I will be heading back this week and will keep you all updated.

Thanks again
 
So, you saw a 2.5" pre-lock Md 66, in great shape and around $600 AND you didn't buy it?

SMH!

Yes, please get back to us and tell us that you went back and bought it!
 
So, you saw a 2.5" pre-lock Md 66, in great shape and around $600 AND you didn't buy it?

SMH!

Yes, please get back to us and tell us that you went back and bought it!



Better yet, just post the address & phone number of the shop.
 
66-5 PICKED UP TODAY!!!

:D:D:D:D:D


Alright ladies and gents!

So I walked into the pawn shop today after 5 days of thinking of purchasing it (and getting a text lashing from you all ;):p). Like I said in the first post, I didn't get a good look at the gun. Price on the 66-5 was $850, not $600.

I asked to see the revolver and if it was okay to inspect. I gave it a good look over and then asked if I could check the timing in which the gentleman obliged. Double and Single action was perfect. Trigger pull was also surprisingly great. I say because I bought a 686-6 ( I know it is not the same) with a 6" barrel for my first revolver, and that trigger pull left a lot to be desired. I ended up getting a trigger job on it from a local gunsmith and then fitted wolf springs to it.

The owner of the shop then asked me what I would like to pay.
I said "$700."
After a brief moment, he says "Let me squeeze another $20 out of you, and let's call it a deal. Whatta ya say?"
Me - "Sounds good."

AFTER TAX, it came out to $775.40. No box or docs, but they did ask if I would like to pick out a holster. I found a Bianchi #111 thumb break for the mean time. I would love an appendix kydex holster, though. If you know anyone, please let me know ladies and gents. I also would like advice on speedloader pouches and what brand to get.

Anyways, enjoy the pics and let me know what you all think of the pics and price.

PS. I want boot grips. Any ideas?

All the best,
Crh1943

And for the person asking about the victory model, there was actually 3 there. 2 had lanyard rings, one did not. Finish on 2 were very weathered while one looked brand new.
 
Last edited:
Pics Part 1

SN is CER1XXX.
About what year would that be please?
 

Attachments

  • 66.jpg
    66.jpg
    110 KB · Views: 33
  • 66a.jpg
    66a.jpg
    111.7 KB · Views: 30
  • 66b.jpg
    66b.jpg
    102.5 KB · Views: 26
  • 66c.jpg
    66c.jpg
    124 KB · Views: 29
  • 66d.jpg
    66d.jpg
    49.8 KB · Views: 26
Last of the pictures.
 

Attachments

  • 66e.jpg
    66e.jpg
    41.2 KB · Views: 10
  • 66f.jpg
    66f.jpg
    90.2 KB · Views: 10
Point the muzzle up. Smack the ejector rod and the spent brass falls right out. I've never had any problems with my 66 snubbies.

Exactly this, exactly! I've been training with my 1 7/8th inch "J" frames for 3 years now and with my Colt 2" "D" frame for 4 years; with both brass cased and most recently, steel cased ammo. Even with the steel cased ammo (that has the habit of being a bit sticky after being fired) I've never had a stuck case after a hard smack with the web of my hand to the ejector rod; with the muzzle pointed 90* up, cylinder fully out... all spent shells drop like they've been butter greased out of the cylider(s).

So with the aforementioned experience of training/shooting with short extractor Revolvers in hot, medium, and cold weather... No, I would Not hesitate to purchase any quality Smith or vintage Colt Snubbie with a short extractor!

-Ham
 
Back
Top