I prefer single at 3lbs and under with no discernible pre-travel and minimum reset for all applications.
I prefer single at 3lbs and under with no discernible pre-travel and minimum reset for all applications.
The primary purpose of a two stage AR trigger is to give the shooter a short sear break without compromising safety. The AR trigger has a long pull to ensure there is plenty of sear engagement to prevent sear bounce when the rifle is dropped, bumped or otherwise handled roughly.I don't understand 2 stage triggers. I guess the idea is to help with precision shots when necessary. The first stage is to give you a little prep time and the second stage is to allow easy let off for long/precision shots. When shooting quickly, think controlled pairs, you don't really notice the first stage.
A crisp 5 lbs trigger with minimal creep and backlash is a joy to shoot.I have always preferred single stage. I like that there is just one "feel" to the trigger. A good trigger, even if it's 5lbs, is still easy to use for precision if your fundamentals are correct.
Bullpup triggers are a completely different breed than AR triggers. Bullpup triggers are often horrible compared to a factory AR trigger.I do have a 2 stage in my X95. It was the only type available for that gun in an after market trigger. Mine is a Geissele and is very nice. It literally feels like a decent trigger with a lot of creep. I don't really see the advantage.
I like a good trigger, whether it's single stage or two stage. I don't like gritty triggers of any kind. Use the trigger type you like best.Which do you like? Why?
So, what? If a regular trigger group hammer falls, the gun will fire. I'd rather have to re-cock it than have a negligent discharge.While the half cock is a good safety feature, if the hammer does fall, it will need to be re-cocked to fire the weapon.
So, what? If a regular trigger group hammer falls, the gun will fire. I'd rather have to re-cock it than have a negligent discharge.
The longer sear engagement of the regular trigger group stops hammer fall to begin with.
Warnings you might see about do-it-yourslf trigger jobs honing past the surface hardening is directed at this issue. Loss of surface harding results in greater wear and eventually less sear/hammer overlap.
Rough handling does not only occur when the safety is engaged.A trigger that is built properly will not allow the hammer to fall unless the trigger is pressed. If the safety is set up properly, the trigger cannot move at all. Therefore, even with very little sear engagement, the hammer won't fall as long as the safety is on.
The problem comes when a DIY person doesn't understand the nature of how the safety works with the trigger and sear engagement.
The half cock position on the Wilson trigger will never be used because they know how to properly build a trigger. It's there for piece of mind or some crazy combination of errors (which won't happen unless the user messes with the trigger).
True, but it should be. There is no reason to take the safety off until ready to fire. You're only ready to fire when sighted in on the target.Rough handling does not only occur when the safety is engaged.
True, but it should be. There is no reason to take the safety off until ready to fire. You're only ready to fire when sighted in on the target.
Truer words have never been spoken. Mr. Murphy is alive and well and wandering the world.You cannot account for all possibilities.