20 of 20 FTF/FTE

spleen911

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Fired my new out-of-box Sport 10 today. First 10 rounds were Federal Gold Sierra Match 168gr and 9 FTF. Next 5 rounds were Hornady Match 168gr and 4 FTF. Last 5 rounds were Hornady Black 168gr and 5 FTE where I had to drop the mag and pull hard to retrieve the brass. I gave up and went home to strip, clean and lube like the Exxon Valdez.
 
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Welcome to the forum.
Since you said new out of the box, my question is did you clean and lubricate it before you went to the range ?
Most require a good cleaning and correct lubrication before a range trip.

Tim
 
Unfortunately I did not. I guess I've been spoiled by my other S&W ARs being able to fire out of the box and I was too excited to pull that trigger. I must be real lucky as this is the first firearm I've ever purchased (20+) that couldn't cycle a single round out of the box. Not trying to be a dick, just initially disappointed. It is cleaned and lubed now. I'm heading back this week with fingers crossed.

It was extremely accurate and consistent. Popped a Nikon P-308 on it, bore scoped at 25 yards and was 2" high and 1" left. I few clicks and those last 5 Hornady Black went in a 3/4" hole.

Did similar with a M&P 15 Sport II out-of-the box yesterday: bore scoped at 25 yards and put 20 rounds of Federal XM193 in a 1" x 1/2" oval ... zero cycling failures.
 
Let us know what happens and what you find. Odd that there was so much malfunction out of the box. I typically clean my firearms as soon as I get them and they are usually absolutely filthy. I did find a popped primer in one rifle's fire control group at one time but that was an odd fluke and a different make. Something similar could have happened to you and gummed up the works.
 
Good point. I assumed failed to fire but that could have been a bad assumption on my part.


I did have a failure to feed issue at one point but that was self induced. Dummy me installed the gas tube upside down and turned my semiautomatic rifle into one heck of an expensive single shot. I flipped the tube around the right way and all was well afterward.
 
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Does sound like a gas blockage if the empty case is not moving at all. sounds like no gas at all. Even if dirty or unlubed should still work

I looked that model up, it is a clamp style gas block I had a friend with a similar issue with a clamp style block and it was not over the gas port in the barrel.
 
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Yes: failure to feed. Yes: seems like short stroking due to gas blockage. It was pretty clean, but dry, dry, dry. Not a drop of lube to be found. I'll post update after next range trip.
 
Stuck late at work last 2 days but decided to break the gun down and inspect thoroughly ... particularly the gas block/tube for restrictions. To my surprise, one of the hex screws on the gas block was not tight and with not much pressure I could wiggle the gas block with my hand. I pulled it and noticed it wasn't completely set against the hand guard cap. I didn't measure (it was 2AM) but it looked at least a 32nd (maybe a 16th) forward. I cleaned everything, reinstalled and hopefully that is the fix. If it was loose enough to move under fire, that would explain why I started with FTF[eed]and ended with total FTE (bolt closed and brass in barrel). Fingers crossed!!!

If that's it, I'll slap my own hand, shake a finger in my face and say "next time take it home, strip, clean, check everything, THEN go destroy paper!".

Now if I can get out of work before the range closes :):)
 
Hit the range today and definite progress. Fired a few single round mags and the bolt didn't lock. Took it apart and the hand guard cap was again a hair loose so did what felt like standing on the gas block and torquing it to death. Despite half a can of remoil the other day the range guy said it looked dry so some CLP and (not kidding) a finger of Mobil 1 5w30 on the bolt. I was able to send 9 of 10 down with a failure to feed (half fed and crushed) but a huge improvement. We dicked with it a bit more and ran 20 more rounds with only 2 failures but they were finally ejecting with extreme prejudice ... bouncing off the lane wall and hitting me. Honestly I think it was dry AF and the gas block off enough to not cycle. The bolt is locked back for 48 hours and I'll go back with some 180gr deer rounds to see if it cycles cleaner. I've only put 80 (counting the original 20 failures) through it so another 100 should loosen her up. I really like this gun. It is stupid accurate on the paper. I wasn't even trying today and it was bang on.
 
Here is a picture of the last two "attempted but failed to feed" rounds. The original FTFeed were complete "no-go-leaving-in-mag". Today was huge progress and once I run more through her I bet life is pink unicorns and leprechauns.

If interested I'm using Magpul PMAG GEN M3 LR/SR

ftf.jpg
 
Looks like short stroking.
I would do two things:
If you are CERTAIN that your gas port/gas block is aligned, lightly dimple your barrel where your gas block set screws make contact.
Replace your gas block hex screws with Torx screws. They will let you get more torque.
I built up this unit from a DPMS receiver. It has an adjustable gas block and a weighted, spring loaded buffer. Like yours, mine is stupid accurate.
 

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I'm in the market

Looks like short stroking.
I would do two things:
If you are CERTAIN that your gas port/gas block is aligned, lightly dimple your barrel where your gas block set screws make contact.
Replace your gas block hex screws with Torx screws. They will let you get more torque.
I built up this unit from a DPMS receiver. It has an adjustable gas block and a weighted, spring loaded buffer. Like yours, mine is stupid accurate.

I will probably start a thread, but I'm looking for an AR-10 in 308, I like the Smith, but I'm getting a lot of negative feelings having read this thread for the best part of 5 years...

I want an short aluminum handguard, with a slik stainless 18 or 20 inch barrel...

in other words something like the old Rock River Arms Predator Pursuit...

What do you guys think, stick with Smith and Wesson? or???

the Smith is on the DPMS style receiver/action ??? yes ???

oh and I'm happy you seem to be nailing done your FTF issues, good show!
 
spleen911 - I don't own a S&W AR-10, but having read some of the issues on this forum that users have experienced, it seems that these guns may be slightly under gassed. If you do a search, several threads talk about it, with some reporting success by slightly enlarging the gas port.

Billy Mag - For those looking for an inexpensive AR-10 that is reliable and accurate, my $650 DPMS LR-308, and a buddies Diamondback AR-10 at about $50 more than the DPMS have proven themselves to work well. My Armilite AR-10t is a little nicer fit and finished, a little more accurate, and no more reliable than the two listed above, at about 3 times the price....

Larry
 
I will probably start a thread, but I'm looking for an AR-10 in 308, I like the Smith, but I'm getting a lot of negative feelings having read this thread for the best part of 5 years...

I want an short aluminum handguard, with a slik stainless 18 or 20 inch barrel...

in other words something like the old Rock River Arms Predator Pursuit...

What do you guys think, stick with Smith and Wesson? or???

the Smith is on the DPMS style receiver/action ??? yes ???

oh and I'm happy you seem to be nailing done your FTF issues, good show!


All I can tell you is the experience I've had with mine and a couple of gear reviewers from Youtube. Mine has run fine as long as I don't do something stupid like install the gas tube upside down. Mine is the original model with the 18" barrel. I have no experience whatsoever with the 16" barrel model (Sport?).



I will admit from the posts here, it seems to be a mixed bag as far as getting a good one or a problem child.
 
I've only been working with AR15/M4/AR10s for about 14 years.
AR10 parts across the board are have not yet reached the level of commonality that AR15s have.
When I replaced my AR10 barrel, it was slightly short chambered. Nice looking, melonited, and dirt cheap from a major manufacturer, but needed work to chamber.
I think that the situation will improve, eventually.
If I had a S&W AR10 I would just push through.
 
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Update: I finally got a day off and had fresh ammo ready to hit the range. Last night I checked the gun to make sure she was ready and to my surprise the barrel wobbled ... badly. It has been sitting in the safe since the last range trip so I guess something (barrel nut) wasn't torqued properly and worked itself loose on the last range visit. I removed the flash suppressor and gas block once again. I pushed the barrel against the upper and was able to spin the barrel nut off using my finger tips. It was LOOSE .. like me after prom 30 years ago :). I buy, not build, rifles and have never needed to remove a barrel so I do not have an armorer's tool nor a vice block.

Today, I went back to the gun store asking to purchase an armorer's tool and block, the guy remembered me and asked to see the rifle. Super nice guy. Hhe offered to reassemble everything for me verses dealing with it at home. It was a good/bad news situation: he torqued the barrel nut, but it did not align for the gas tube. Adding a shim solved that issue. He gave me a thumbs up on the gas block alignment.

I'm headed to the range tomorrow with 80 rounds of Federal Fusion 180gr soft points, crossed fingers, some rosary beads, a Buddha statue and a rabbits foot. I pray to the copper/lead gods to let her cycle without issue raining hell fire upon and destruction of many paper targets tomorrow - Ramen
 
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