22/32, worth it?

[smithcollector]

Local shop has a 22/32 with the extension stocks, they have the seperate serial number stamped on the bottom. Price is $350. It's blue, but most finish is gone except the barrel has more blue. But..
The edge of the forcing cone is rounded off from closing the cylinder. Once closed the cylinder does not touch the forcing cone. Also, there is quite a bit of flame cutting on the top strap. If i bought this, i'd want to be able to fire it, but im affraid its too far warn to be safe to fire. It does seem to function and lock of fine.
So what y'all think?

 

[DCWilson]

If it has a number on the bottom of the stocks, it is either a "real" Bekeart or something pretty close to it in age. If the stocks haven't been moved on from another gun, this is probably from the early to mid-'teens. Can you get the serial number from the frame?

If it is an early .22/32 target model,you would probably not want to shoot modern high-velocity ammo in it. I would stick with low velocity, lower pressure rounds.

The contact problem with the forcing cone suggests some kind of wear or distortion to me -- end shake (whether present now or not), bent ejector rod, something like that. Obvious flame cutting makes me think someone was shooting hotter loads in it than was wise for a gun of this age, but I'm not asserting that as a fact -- it's just something that crossed my mind as a possibility.

If you want a .22/32 target model to shoot, my own inclination would be to pick up one that was manufactured in the late '20s or '30s. These should have serial numbers north of 500000. The steel is better than in the original units made on this pattern, which date from 1911 to 1915.

One man's opinion, and worth every penny you paid for it.

 

[smithcollector]

I didn't write down the serial number, but I could probably get it. It is on the front strap.
I'm suspicious of the wear..heavy wear on the frame (looks grey), but the barrel, while worn, is still mostly blue. And the flame cutting makes me nervous.

 

[DCWilson]

If you are suspicious and nervous about aspects of this particular gun, I think you have probably answered your own question. There will be other opportunities for a shootable .22/32; why not let this one go by?

 

[H Richard]

The rear of the barrel, by the forcing cone may not be so much wear as you think. Older guns of this era were beveled there.

 

[Bekeart]

I would like to know serial number and grip number for my file..

Serial number 138xxx - 139xxx would be 1911,
and 163xxx -164xxx would be 1912.
BOTH appropriate for the numbered on bottom grips.

Bekeart


I didn't write down the serial number, but I could probably get it. It is on the front strap.

 

[DGNY]

22-32

Agree on the rear-of-barrel-bevel - saw one where it was pronounced on a 22-32 - done @ factory, it looked.

I never see them for that price. Good luck.

Regards,

Dyson

 

[smithcollector]

I wasn't looking for one of these revolvers, just cruisin the gun shop on saturday and saw it sitting there. Then lastnight looking thru my SCSW i looked it up and realized what it was.
If i did buy it and wanted to fire it, would it be wise to only use .22short CB? i have no experience with them.

 

[stonefly]

my 1917 era 22/32 has a groove cut in the frame to allow for some black powder residue buildup ( a manufacturer holdover as it was described on this forum). it may not be flame cutting at all. i use standard velocity or less.

 

[mtb1bkr]

SC,
I think you would be ok shooting standard 22 Shorts or even standard velocity 22LRs. I would stick with the shorts myself. If the grips are in good shape and don't belong on the gun they could be sold for about $200 alone.

Bill

 

[smithcollector]

I called the shop and put it on hold. I'll check it out again tonight, and hopefully bring it home tomorrow night. I'll post more info then. Thanks again everyone.

 

[smithcollector]

OK, i see what y'all mean about the tapered forcing cone, however there is a spot of wear which im sure is from closing the cylinder. Ofcourse, if you're careful and push the cylinder back while closing, it doesn't rub. Also, i dont think the flame cutting is anything to worry about, with regular ammo. The wood grips are stamped 1222, i have not removed them to see if they number to the gun. The serial number is 1633XX. I'll pick it up tonight.

 

[DCWilson]

OK, i see what y'all mean about the tapered forcing cone, however there is a spot of wear which im sure is from closing the cylinder. Of course, if you're careful and push the cylinder back while closing, it doesn't rub. Also, i dont think the flame cutting is anything to worry about, with regular ammo. The wood grips are stamped 1222, i have not removed them to see if they number to the gun. The serial number is 1633XX. I'll pick it up tonight.

With those numbers, I'm thinking this is 1912 production, just a year after the introduction of the original Bekeart models. The first ones were in the 138xxx S/N range. I'm betting the stocks are original on this revolver.

Nice catch. If you are sure there is some kind of cylinder/breech collision evidence, you might want to have this one checked out before you shoot it. Possibly you could fix the collision with a shim; if there is an endshake problem, you might want to shim it anyway. You should probably check the B/C space at every position with a feeler gauge and see if there is evidence of eccentricity. Also, take a look at the crane shaft itself, and see if it is bent or worn. If previous owners habitually closed the gun by pushing on the cylinder rather than the flat surface of the crane, that might lead to cylinder/barrel crash.

Whether you shoot it or not, it's cool to find an early .22/32; I hope you enjoy the having. I'm also hoping for pictures once you have the gun in hand.

 

[smithcollector]

I'll get pictures in my photo album as soon as i can. There doesnt really seem to be any fore-aft movement of the cylinder, however, the crane does seem to flex, but perhaps that is typical? ive never really noticed. The grips have wear matching the gun, and dont really look like they've ever been off. The medallions have a nice buildup of "gunk". The barrel and frame numbers match. Im not sure why the barrel seemed to hold its blue better than the frame, perhaps it spent a good deal of time holstered.