.223 case question.

andyo5

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I am just beginning to reload 5.56/.223 cartridges. I can't buy new brass at present, so I am using a mixture of range brass and recovered brass from new ammo that I have shot. I have some Lake City, some Remington, and some Federal (FC headstamp).

My issue is this: After cleaning and sizing, I have found that many cases are several thousandths under the 'trim to' length of 1.750". One was 11 thousandths under, and many are three to five under. These are all the FC headstamped cases, from new ammo that I have fired (American Eagle value Pack). The variation seems to be confined to the case neck length. Using a case gauge, all cases are in spec for neck-to-heel length.

Going back to the new, unfired American Eagle ammo, turns out that they are also under the trim-to length. I am wondering whether I should just go ahead and load these cases or not. I plan to trim the longer cases to 1.750".
Do you think these shorter cases are OK to use in my 5.56-chambered AR?
Thanks.
 
As long as you have neck tension you should be fine.

What he said. Press bullet hard against bench. If no movement neck tension is good.

You'll see more of those somewhat short cases as time goes by. I ignore them.
 
First off, you should know that what you are experiencing with the brass you are using is typical. You'll begin to hear "Federal cases (etc) are "always" short."

Length to shoulder is fine after sizing, and since it fired once with a factory load, and grew as a result, and is shorter than MAX length . . . it's perfectly fine for another go.

Accuracy will also be fine, assuming a properly set bullet measured at the ogive.

The only thing that might give you trouble is if you crimp, since you probably can't or don't want to trim all your brass to the same shortest length. So the die setting for your crimper would/may have to vary.

The answer is don't crimp, or crimp separately from bullet seating. Even then that is probably easiest done with a Lee Factory Crimp Die, regardless of what other brand dies you are using.

Longer way of saying - you're fine.
 
Load em!

I'll tell you something I've found with 223 brass, is that some of the Federal brass has very loose primer pockets.

Hmmm. I'm thinking maybe I should avoid Federal brass and ammo in this caliber. I am using Dillon .223 dies. There is no roll crimp capability.
I plan to select an OAL based on cases at 1.750" length. The shorter necks will just show a bit more cannelure.
Thanks for all the input, guys!
 
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One thing you can do for loose primers is after you seat the primers turn all the rounds upside down in a tray. Now use a little bit of finger nail polish that you stole/borrowed from your wife. Put a little around the primer. I use this on all of the military brass that I have reamed out. This is a good habit for ammo. you are going to use for self defense.
Also you are aware that you need to lubricate the brass before you resize/deprime? You do not need to put this on the inside of the neck. If you do your powder will bridge up.
 
One thing you can do for loose primers is after you seat the primers turn all the rounds upside down in a tray. Now use a little bit of finger nail polish that you stole/borrowed from your wife. Put a little around the primer. I use this on all of the military brass that I have reamed out. This is a good habit for ammo. you are going to use for self defense.
Also you are aware that you need to lubricate the brass before you resize/deprime? You do not need to put this on the inside of the neck. If you do your powder will bridge up.

Yes, I know to lube the brass. I am not new to rifle reloading, just this particular caliber.
Thanks.
 
"Trim-to" length, like COL, is a nebulous dimension, especially in rifle rounds. Don't sweat it unless your neck is soooo short it won't hold the bullet. A few thousandths isn't going to make a difference.
 
One thing I didn't mention and I am not sure you are aware of the problems of military brass. If you are not you can send me a P.M.
 
No reason to avoid Federal brass. Works fine, just like most brands.
 
Decrimping is a necessity for military brass. I've used a hand reamer )Lyman) and a deburring tool in the past, but a pocket swager does a better and more consistant job. If needing to decrimp a large number of cases, it's worth the extra expense. Military brass also typically has a lower case volume but it's insignificant with the smaller 5.56 cases.
 
Load em!

I'll tell you something I've found with 223 brass, is that some of the Federal brass has very loose primer pockets.

Pretty common w/ Federal brass in high pressure rounds. Even their GMM is krap, too soft & you lose cases to stretched primer pockets sooner than later. No need for crimping either, never have for my ARs.
 
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