I traded for 3 NIB? revolvers all 8 3/8. A 48 with both cylinders a 586 no dash and this 27-2. All do appear NIB but the bluing on the frame of this 27 appears to be very thin at certain angles and almost has a case hardened look. the rest of the bluing is perfect. Could this be a failed attempt at cleaning? The grips are perfect and looking at the forcing cone very little use is shown. I was aware of this when I got it but will probably move it on as I have another without these issues. Any ideas just curious
27-2 bluing issues
- Thread starter myellowc5
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texagun
Member
From the photos it looks like it may be trying to turn plum. I like it.
Something is going on here, I would note that it is a very late pinned and recessed gun and as such, there were some shall we say "issues" with certain guns. I would enquire of Smith and Wesson to see if this particular piece had been returned previously???? billy
I have seen several cylinders that I had suspected were reblues of that era "plumbing", but this looks different than that????
I have seen several cylinders that I had suspected were reblues of that era "plumbing", but this looks different than that????
diamonback68
US Veteran
I could be wrong, but from the pictures it looks like someone tried to clean it up with fine Copper wool. I would take some Flitz or Simichrome and see if it will clean off.
I have bought a few S&W revolvers with a plum color on part of the revolver and it was usually on the cylinder but mine had no thinning. I understand the plum color was caused with problems in the bluing solution applied to the revolver and that doesn't necessarily mean a reblue.
Assuming the 27-2 was shipped in late 80 or sometime in 81, the plum color may have resulted from S&W changing from the carbona blue process to the hot liquid blue process in May of 1980. Maybe (and this is pure speculation), the company was still perfecting the new process.
Bill
Bill
AzRedleg
Member
I have two pistols with parts that are plum color. My understanding, like others who have posted, is this may be a problem with the original bluing solution. I know for a fact that one of them is not a reblue because I purchased it new. The other was used but shows no signs of a reblue.
27-2
Reading all the posts and looking at the revolver I'm pretty sure it was a bluing issue and over time is turning a case hardened looking plum. I see no issues that indicate a reblue finish as all lines and screw holes are
sharp and knowing the back round of the others I bought .
from same seller it makes the most sense. Thanks to all for you for your help.
gary
Reading all the posts and looking at the revolver I'm pretty sure it was a bluing issue and over time is turning a case hardened looking plum. I see no issues that indicate a reblue finish as all lines and screw holes are
sharp and knowing the back round of the others I bought .
from same seller it makes the most sense. Thanks to all for you for your help.
gary
UncleEd
Member
Many a Ruger Blackhawk had that case hardened plum look from a poor bluing process. It happened and in fact I've like it on the Rugers as it gave an antique look as if the frame truly was case hardened ala a Colt SAA.
Consider the Model 27 a great shooter and let it go to work.
Consider the Model 27 a great shooter and let it go to work.
Nothing to add re: blueing issues, but
Let's see the 48, please!
Let's see the 48, please!
Blueing from the factory seems to vary a good bit with guns made
during the 70s. I have some that look almost black and others that
have a lighter thinner blue color. I have two 4" 28-2s that are not very
far apart in serial numbers, 566xxx and 586xxx and one, can't remember which without looking, has a slight plum cast to the frame
under certain lighting angles.
during the 70s. I have some that look almost black and others that
have a lighter thinner blue color. I have two 4" 28-2s that are not very
far apart in serial numbers, 566xxx and 586xxx and one, can't remember which without looking, has a slight plum cast to the frame
under certain lighting angles.
mark44spec
Member
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The blueing process is not an exact science, the salts work differently on each steel alloy and also depends on hardness. If you consider that it is a forced oxidation process it makes sense that some metals rust easier than others. I used a additive from brownelles to combat the plum colors, it usually worked. Some alloys like Winchesters nickel steel were a real problem.
jaykellogg
Absent Comrade
I would put a good coat of paste wax on it.
Leatherhead23
Member
Awakening an old thread...
I now own this gun. I have used one very light round of Flitz and it didnt change the color of the bluing. It doesnt appear to be a 'thin' look to the bluing IMO, it just has a greenish-plum hue to it. Maybe it is in the process of turning completely plum like some ive seen?
Here are some updated pics I took yesterday...
Any opinions and info are welcome.
I now own this gun. I have used one very light round of Flitz and it didnt change the color of the bluing. It doesnt appear to be a 'thin' look to the bluing IMO, it just has a greenish-plum hue to it. Maybe it is in the process of turning completely plum like some ive seen?
Here are some updated pics I took yesterday...
Any opinions and info are welcome.
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