I have a 4' nickel 29-2. When the trigger is pulled quickly double action the trigger stays at the rear most point. The cylinder locks in place.The hammer is free (under spring tension). The only way to get it unlocked is to pull the hammer back and forth while trying to turn the cylinder. Only happens when trigger is pulled rapidly. I took the gun apart and cleaned the whole thing but it still does it. Any ideas?? Thanks in Advance!
29-2 Locking up
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Art Doc
SWCA Member, Absent Comrade
#67
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My revolver malfunctions.
67. A: Give the gun a thorough cleaning. Congealed grease and oil, grime, dirt, lint, etc. can jam the action or make it feel unnatural. Clean the cylinder face and forcing cone to maintain clearance. Chambers on 357 revolvers that are shot with 38 ammo can have a ring of sludge preventing Magnum ammo from being loaded. Grit under the extractor star can also cause problems. B: Tighten the ejector rod. This will often back out and when it does it makes the cylinder difficult or impossible to open. C: On S&Ws make sure the tension screw on the hammer spring is fully tightened. Some folks will loosen this screw to make the trigger pull lighter but this can result in misfires. D: Check your ammo to make sure its properly sized (OAL and diameter) and that the primers are fully seated.
If all this fails to rectify the problem then buy a new gun.
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My revolver malfunctions.
67. A: Give the gun a thorough cleaning. Congealed grease and oil, grime, dirt, lint, etc. can jam the action or make it feel unnatural. Clean the cylinder face and forcing cone to maintain clearance. Chambers on 357 revolvers that are shot with 38 ammo can have a ring of sludge preventing Magnum ammo from being loaded. Grit under the extractor star can also cause problems. B: Tighten the ejector rod. This will often back out and when it does it makes the cylinder difficult or impossible to open. C: On S&Ws make sure the tension screw on the hammer spring is fully tightened. Some folks will loosen this screw to make the trigger pull lighter but this can result in misfires. D: Check your ammo to make sure its properly sized (OAL and diameter) and that the primers are fully seated.
If all this fails to rectify the problem then buy a new gun.
There could be a couple of things happening to create this. As stated above, take it apart and clean thoroughly. Check to make sure that you have a good full spring in the trigger rebound slide. Check the studes to make sure they are solid in place. Check to see if there is binding between hand and frame. If all those are ok, it could be a hand bind on the ratchet. Is there some binding when you cock the hammer when rotating cylinder. If the rebound slide is not in a straight line, that can cause trouble too. It is hard to diagnose without having gun in hand. Will this repeat when the cylinder is opened. You can check this by opening the cylinder and pushing the thump release forward to releas hammer. If you cannot repeat it with the cylinder open, then the cylinder is part of the problem, probably the hand ratchet conflict. Hope that gets you started in the right direction.
Bando
Member
re: model 29 trigger pull difficulties
This is apparently a common problem and I can tell you from my experience, that it's not your fault; it is a real problem and it is fixable.
You will need to have the end of the forcing cone reduced by a professional gunsmith. After a few shots, the barrel heats-up and expands, causing the forcing cone to drag against the front of the cylinder. This 'cylinder drag' syndrome is common with model 29s. The first two I owned as a Detroit Police officer were new from the factory and both had the same problem. This was a disaster for my score on qualification day, as the cylinder drag would cause me to have to squeeze extra hard on some shots, to get the weapon to discharge and as a result I'd throw some rounds completely off the silhouette-meaning minus five points each time that happened. I sold both those first two .44 mags I owned, then bought the used one shown on another thread on this board (manufactured circa 1967).
A gunsmith had worked on it before I obtained it and from day one, it shot like a dream and still does. This enabled me to shoot expert with full .44 magnum factory loads on one qualification and at Sharpshooter on others.
I recently had a similar problem with a like-new but previously-owned model 25-2. I took it to a gunsmith, who created more space between the front of the cylinder and the forcing cone and for $50-, he solved the same problem.
This is apparently a common problem and I can tell you from my experience, that it's not your fault; it is a real problem and it is fixable.
You will need to have the end of the forcing cone reduced by a professional gunsmith. After a few shots, the barrel heats-up and expands, causing the forcing cone to drag against the front of the cylinder. This 'cylinder drag' syndrome is common with model 29s. The first two I owned as a Detroit Police officer were new from the factory and both had the same problem. This was a disaster for my score on qualification day, as the cylinder drag would cause me to have to squeeze extra hard on some shots, to get the weapon to discharge and as a result I'd throw some rounds completely off the silhouette-meaning minus five points each time that happened. I sold both those first two .44 mags I owned, then bought the used one shown on another thread on this board (manufactured circa 1967).
A gunsmith had worked on it before I obtained it and from day one, it shot like a dream and still does. This enabled me to shoot expert with full .44 magnum factory loads on one qualification and at Sharpshooter on others.
I recently had a similar problem with a like-new but previously-owned model 25-2. I took it to a gunsmith, who created more space between the front of the cylinder and the forcing cone and for $50-, he solved the same problem.
lonecowhand
Member
I have a number of N frame Smiths such as your M29. Some folks take them apart and cut down the rebound slide spring to try and get an easier trigger pull. This will hurt the reliability.
The factory spring should have 17 coils, no less, for proper functioning. You can order them off of the S&W website and they are less than $1.00 each.
The factory spring should have 17 coils, no less, for proper functioning. You can order them off of the S&W website and they are less than $1.00 each.
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