2nd Model HE .44spl Nickel spotted-Questions

[wilshire1412]

Greetings fellow Smith & Wesson fans. I have spotted a Nickel 5in. 2nd model hand ejector in .44spl for sale locally and I have a couple of questions. This revolver has a lanyard ring that appears to be factory installed, the only way I can say that is that the SN on the bottom of the gripframe is offset from the hole. The finish looks too good for a piece that I believe is from around 1930 give or take, number is 27xxx if I saw it correctly. There are none of the tell tale signs of a butcher job that I am used to seeing on these, the trigger and hammer have about the right amount of fade in the Casehardened coloring and I think the ejector star was blued. The asking price is not as high as I would expect although I don't see these for sale often in any local shops. So here is the question, what would you guys say a revolver like my description states should be worth if it is original? What about if not original and a nicely done renickel? BTW, the grips are prewar service without emblems that are period correct but they do not fit as nicely as a 38/44HD that I have. The grip frame sticks out just a tiny bit at the bottom side past the grips. I am not sure if that indicates a definite mismatch on one with a lanyuard ring or not. If anyone has anything to interject I would appreciate the info.

 

[wilshire1412]

Greetings fellow Smith & Wesson fans. I have spotted a Nickel 5in. 2nd model hand ejector in .44spl for sale locally and I have a couple of questions. This revolver has a lanyard ring that appears to be factory installed, the only way I can say that is that the SN on the bottom of the gripframe is offset from the hole. The finish looks too good for a piece that I believe is from around 1930 give or take, number is 27xxx if I saw it correctly. There are none of the tell tale signs of a butcher job that I am used to seeing on these, the trigger and hammer have about the right amount of fade in the Casehardened coloring and I think the ejector star was blued. The asking price is not as high as I would expect although I don't see these for sale often in any local shops. So here is the question, what would you guys say a revolver like my description states should be worth if it is original? What about if not original and a nicely done renickel? BTW, the grips are prewar service without emblems that are period correct but they do not fit as nicely as a 38/44HD that I have. The grip frame sticks out just a tiny bit at the bottom side past the grips. I am not sure if that indicates a definite mismatch on one with a lanyuard ring or not. If anyone has anything to interject I would appreciate the info.

 

[opoefc]

The ,44 HEs, 2nd Models, I have in the 27000 serial range were shippd in 1928, so yout gues is pretty close. Correct grips would not have any medalions and would be numbered to the gun. You can check that by pulling the grips and looking for the serial number stamped on the back of the right grip panel. If no number, then the grips are not original to the gun, if they are numbered to the gun and seem a little small, thinks that's the shinkage over the years if the gun has been in a dry climate. Check under the grips on the left grip frame for any refinish/rework date codes. If the gun was shipped as a nickel gun there should be a letter N stamped there. If the serial number on the barrel is preceeded by a small letter B, then the gun was originally shipped as a blue gun. A 5 inch in nickel is an uncommon gun and should be worth a premium. The lanyard swivel would be correct for a gun with offset serial number on the butt.

 

[mikepriwer]

What would you guys say a revolver like my description states should be worth if it is original?

What would you say the asking price is ? Why make us guess ?

Later, Mike Priwer

 

[wilshire1412]

I appologise for not including the asking price, this revolver is listed as a consignment at a small local shop. The price is $1200 which I think is perhaps a little low if the revolver is original considering that there would be a consignment fee if it sells. I think the price listed would be rather high if the piece is not original, although it is seemingly in nice shape. All of this is really just a bit of my own regret over passing up a 4th model HE .44spl about 12 years ago that was listed at the same price, live and learn. I do realize that I should get what I really want (pre 21) but they aren't exactly falling out of the sky. The info posted in response does help answer a couple of my questions, thanks.

 

[mikepriwer]

I think you are right on top of the pricing issue. If its original, and depending
on where you are, the price is right to low. If its been refinished, then the
price is high.

If you really like the gun, and would keep regardless (DW!) of the originality of the finish,
then then price is OK. Buy it and don't worry about it - you would not be overpaying in the
long run. If you are a trader, then you have to check into the finish very carefully.

A few years ago, there was more of a stigma about refinishing, than there is today. Maybe its
because there are more active collectors seeking these N-frames, which are scarce anyway.
Whatever it is, the price of refinished guns is increasing, indicating that some collectors
are not that concerned about it.

Later, Mike Priwer

 

[Bell Charter Oak Holsters]

If it's original finish I believe it's priced right. If not original, I wouldn't pay more than half of the asking price. I note you mention that your real ambition is a Pre 21. If this 2nd. Model .44 turns out to be non original finish, it seems to me that you will wind up overpaying for something you really didn't want in the first place. If you could buy it below value and maybe resell or trade up for the Pre 21, that would seem to make sense too. All in all, despite the ever increasing scarcity of the older N frames, a refinished specimen should not command the value of an original finish specimen. True, collectors do seem more accepting of refinished guns which have become rare or scarce. However, in your case, my guess is that you'll find yourself unhappy with a $1200 piece that's worth significantly less than that in the marketplace when you do locate a Pre 21. Just thought I'd add some food for thought. Best of luck!

 

[handejector]

DEFINITELY worth another look. A 5" nickel is quite scarce- actually rare.
If original, I would pay that for one. Can you make an offer?
Most 44-2nds have lanyard loops, cause they were built on leftover 1917 frames. Open the cyl, and you will probably see a tiny eagle's head which an inspector's mark from WW I.

 

[CI_SeaWolf]

I think that I saw the same gun today. The shop owner said that it was factory refinished.

 

[DHENRY]

This 6-1/2" nickel shipped in 1926, and (interestingly) has neither the eagle head nor the lanyard.
Don

 

[wilshire1412]

DHENRY that is good looking! Thanks for all the replies gentlemen, I have a few irons in the fire at this point so I don't know if there will be any possibility of even trying to buy the revolver in question. I do have an appreciation for the older N frame S&W, especially in large bore caliber. I used to work for Kings Gunworks about 8 years ago, someone brought in a dead mint 44-40 HE for a cleaning! The revolver hardly needed any cleaning whatever, and we tried to offer a good price for it to no avail. I just hope that it did not end up ruined by its owner who really was not a firearms enthusiast, He did not even know what caliber 44-40 was. I think there were maybe 200 examples made in that caliber.