.30-06 primers for M1

brick

Member
Joined
Mar 12, 2009
Messages
426
Reaction score
243
In reloading .30-06 for my M1, do I need to use "hard" military type primers (CCI No.34) or can I use regular CCI or Winchester Large Rifle Primers? I am reading/hearing conflicting stories on this subject. I don't want any slamfiring. Thanks for any help.
 
Register to hide this ad
Loading for my M1 I have used regular CCI primers and never had a problem...
 
I think as long as you clean and uniform ream the primer well and seat the primer below the rim you should be ok with regular primers. Case prep is the key. That being said I only use reloaded ammo in my bolt guns and use surplus in the m-1
 
I have loaded and fired several thousand rounds in my M1 rifles. Standard primers have always worked just fine.

A greater concern is keeping your loads closely consistent to M2 ball specs and performance. Powder burning rates, and peak pressure curves, need to be within a fairly narrow range to avoid problems due to excessive stresses on the gas system, operating rod, etc. I've found that IMR 4895 and H-4895 work very well in duplicating M2 ball performance.
 
I am using 45 grains of H4895 with 150 grain bullet for my starting load. That load is in the middle of the Hornady book load for M1 Garand.
 
I use the CCI #34 primers just in case. There are some rumors floating around about slam fires but I think its a rare occurance and maybe incorrectly blamed on primers.
 
In reloading .30-06 for my M1, do I need to use "hard" military type primers (CCI No.34) or can I use regular CCI or Winchester Large Rifle Primers? I am reading/hearing conflicting stories on this subject. I don't want any slamfiring. Thanks for any help.

Sir, FWIW, I've loaded some thousands of rounds for my M1s, both .30-'06 and .308, with regular Winchester large rifle primers, and have had no problems. Clean your primer pockets and make sure every primer is seated below flush.

Probably more important is how you single-load the gun. You're more likely to have a slam-fire single-loading than loading from the clip. When loading a single round, put the round in the chamber, control the bolt and let it go about halfway forward before releasing it. Don't just let it go from its full rearward position.

Hope this helps, and Semper Fi.

Ron H.
 
CCI started making their mil-spec primers after AK variants that didn't have firing pin springs started becoming popular. These seemed to have problems with slam fires because of the manner in which they were being shot, as I recall. Other than that I don't know of any other need for them, althought I do use them on occasion for ammo that may see hard use, even in bolt guns. But that's just me.
 
Agree with the above. When I got my M1, CCI 34s were unobtanium. Still are. I went with Winchester LR with no problems whatsoever. That said, one must pay close attention to seating depth. They MUST be seated a couple thou below the case head. In prepping my cases, I use a Sinclair primer pocket uniformer. It is amazing how much brass comes out of some of them. I also hand prime, so I can feel each primer seat and then feel the primer to ensure its seated properly. Anal? Probably, but its worked for me for many 100s of rounds.
 
Before the current "primer shortage" I always used CCI#34 primers for my Garand ammo. When I ran out of CCI#34 primers I started using standard CCI-200 primers and have experienced no slam-fires. Even when CCI#34 primers are again available in good numbers I doubt I'll spend the additional money to buy them since the standard CCI-200 primers seem to work just as well.
 
Everything lobogunleather said! Standard primers work just fine.
 
Another M1 shooter chiming in who has had no problems using most any component primer with the rifle. I've shot thousands of handloads through the M1 competing in high-power. My personal favorite primer is the Remington 9 1/2.
 
I already purchase Winchester large rifle primers from the local pusher and was intending to use them. I want to thank everyone for the info.
 
With the m1a, very simular to the m1 garand the more important issue is properly sized brass and or a high primer. If a case is to big the bolt will not rotate into battery or the boltface will contact the primer and kaboom. Springfield armory sent a nice artical on this with my m1a it reccomends stripping the bolt and insuring it will close on resized brass with no resistance. I would assume this would apply to a garand as well.
 
Never had a problem with Winchester Large Rifle primers in my Garands and M-1As. I have witnessed slam fires in both with Federal primers.
 
Back
Top