30 30 question

Digby49

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This is a little off topic but I need your help a Winchester model 94 that was made in 51 has made it's way in to my house and I would like to reload with lead but do not know the
diameter to use.
 
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Of course having some bore measurements would help but as a starter if you are in a hurry,.309 to .310 would be a good place to start.
If you want just a plinker,plain base bullets at around 1300fps are great(125gr and up).If you want to duplicate factory ammo(1900 to 2200fps),gas checks on a 150 to 180gr bullet are mandatory.Good powders for the first one is Unique and IMR 3031 for the second type.But a lot of similar burning rate powders will make a good job.The 30-30 really is a very flexible round when it comes to cast bullets.Just make sure to open up the case mouth by expanding properly(Lyman M die does a great job for that).
 
Started loading .30-30 cast bullet loads about 40 years ago. Both of my kids grew up with Winchester Model 94's, now all of my grandkids have them as well (cleaned me out, as a matter of fact). Still loading all the fired brass all the kids send to me every year (don't think they have ever learned that .30-30 ammo can be bought at any well stocked retail store). I use the Lee C309-170F mold, cast with 50% wheel weights and 50% Linotype metal, Hornady crimp-on gas checks, sized .309" with NRA formula Alox lube, 30 grains H-335 and standard primers. That load has filled freezers with venison going on 3 generations now (nine grandkids, 3 great-grandkids, all well fed).

Ditto the prior post recommending the Lyman M-die for expanding case mouths to easily seat cast bullets. Nothing better.
 
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Started loading .30-30 cast bullet loads about 40 years ago. Both of my kids grew up with Winchester Model 94's, now all of my grandkids have them as well (cleaned me out, as a matter of fact). Still loading all the fired brass all the kids send to me every year (don't think they have ever learned that .30-30 ammo can be bought at any well stocked retail store). I use the Lee C309-170F mold, cast with 50% wheel weights and 50% Linotype metal, Hornady crimp-on gas checks, sized .309" with NRA formula Alox lube, 30 grains H-335 and standard primers. That load has filled freezers with venison going on 3 generations now (nine grandkids, 3 great-grandkids, all well fed).

Them grandkids sure have a good grandpa!
 
.308 to .311 has been working for many 30wcf shooters for several decades.
The easy method to find your bore diameter is; shoot a factory round, then measure the case mouth opening of the fired brass. That will get you very close without slugging the barrel.
 
Cast bullet diameter is no more important and possibly less important than nose diameter. Gas checked bullets sized to 0.001" or 0.002" over groove diameter combined with a nose that had a cylindrical portion that fit snugly in the lands usually gave me the best accuracy. A bore riding nose is a basic feature for shooting tight groups with cast rifle bullets.

Bear in mind that bullets that in theory should group great do not always do so. It always comes down to testing different combinations in a particular rifle.
 
Most times the 30-30 is loaded with a .308" jacketed bullet and a .309" Cast Bullet. I use the 30-30 Cast bullets from Missouri Bullets with success. Now they are available coated which is even better.

I use H4198, IMR3031, SR4759 or Trail Boss. There is no leading at all with the Hi-Tek coated bullets.
Missouri Bullet Company
Missouri Bullet Company
 
And just so it is mentioned, no pointed bullets that might set off the primers of the rounds in the magazine tube...
 
30 30 loads

Wow thanks to you all for your advice I now have a direction to go by .Digby 49
 
And just so it is mentioned, no pointed bullets that might set off the primers of the rounds in the magazine tube...

Use bullets with a flat point...these are designed for lever guns with tubular magazines. Even a round nose will press against the next primer ....that bothers me . Flat Nose Only.

I like the 170 grain FP with a gas check , sized to .309 works in my 1970's model 94.
Gary
 
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I have tried loading the .30-30 with 170 grain FP lead bullets made for the .30-30 from Missouri Bullet Co.. I have yet to find a load (light or heavy) which groups very well from my M94. They might hit somewhere on the paper at 100 yards.

The concern about using round nose or even pointed bullets in a tubular magazine is largely a myth. I remember an article in, I think, one of the older Gun Digest editions in which the author did extensive experiments to see if he could get a primer to go off under recoil in the tubular magazine of an M94 as the result of using pointed bullets (exposed lead, not FMJ). He couldn't. Not to recommend the practice of using pointed bullets in tubular magazines, but just to point out that it may not be nearly as hazardous as everyone thinks. I have never heard of such an in-magazine detonation actually happening.
 
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Cast bullet diameter is no more important and possibly less important than nose diameter. Gas checked bullets sized to 0.001" or 0.002" over groove diameter combined with a nose that had a cylindrical portion that fit snugly in the lands usually gave me the best accuracy. A bore riding nose is a basic feature for shooting tight groups with cast rifle bullets.

Bear in mind that bullets that in theory should group great do not always do so. It always comes down to testing different combinations in a particular rifle.

The Hornady jacketed 170 grain flat point made for the 30-30 is .308 behind the cannelure and .300 forward of the cannelure.

It alway amazed me how well these bullets shot in a very worn bore in my 1943 two groove Remington 03-A3 30-06.
 
In almost any 30 caliber I use the Lyman 311 041 170 gr FN gas check bullet. For playing around loads I use 11 gr of unique in the 30-30...in any necked 30 cal round 300 S 308 30-06 and even others 13-13.5 Unique. Hunting loads get other powders. My 64s shoot that load just fine...and even the Unique loads will stop a deer. I use the same bullet shape but a 319 mould to cast for my 32 Sp. M 64s. I do not have to shoot more than 75 yds to shoot any deer...usually much less
 
about 310 and if I may suggest a powder for lead it would be H4198

I have used the same MBC lead bullet with 26 grains of IMR 4198 in .300 Savage, and it shoots an adequate but not spectacular group. I find 23 grains of IMR 4227 does a little better in the Savage. My best performing .223 loads also use IMR 4198 (21.5 grains with 50-55 grain jacketed bullets). Many years ago one of my friends who was a good bench rest shooter told me that if you couldn't come up with an excellent load for the .223 using IMR 4198, you needed to get another rifle. He was right. And I have used nothing else but 4198 for the .223 since.
 
Lead bullets out of a mod. 94 are ok but my father taught me
that I could usually get more deer on the ground with the first
shot, if I used a 150 or 165gr copper jacket Spitzer bullet placed
in the chamber, for the first shot, down range.

If I missed, the flat nose bullets were my last hope but they did
work well in the deep woods, better than the pointed bullet.

Heads or tails............
 
That was one of the tricks used by deer hunters who reloaded .30-30 using spitzer bullets and a M94 or Marlin. One cartridge in the chamber and one in the magazine. If you couldn't get a deer with two shots, then you probably couldn't with 20.
 
That was one of the tricks used by deer hunters who reloaded .30-30 using spitzer bullets and a M94 or Marlin. One cartridge in the chamber and one in the magazine. If you couldn't get a deer with two shots, then you probably couldn't with 20.

I agree, I have often said you can use any bullet shape you want in a tubular magazine as long as you load only one bullet in the tube. There is a concern though. Not all bullets will reliably expand at the lower velocities associated with the 30-30. Most bullets used for a 30-30 are specifically designed to expand at those lower velocities so take care when choosing your hunting bullets.
 
For different reasons than their ability to have magazines full of spitzers, my favorite .30-30s are the Remington Model 788 and Savage Model 99. With both home cast and jacketed bullets none of my tube magazine .30-30s have been as accurate as my Remington .30-30. Most Savage 99s group tighter than most tube magazine .30-30s. That was true for all the Savage 99s and tube magazine lever actions that I owned.

However, the real reason I favor .30-30 Savage Model 99s is I have an irrational attraction to their classic design and they give too short brass life reloading higher pressure cartridges. This is not news. During the 1920s or 1930s Jack O'Conner wrote the same thing about 99s. He often left his famously written up .270 Winchester at home to hunt deer with a .250 Savage Model 99. At the time he did not have the option of using a front lock up Browning or Sako lever action. I do. Some of us are dumb enough to like Colt Peace Makers. Others are dumb enough to like Savage Model 99s.

[...] Not all [spitzer] bullets will reliably expand at the lower velocities associated with the 30-30. Most bullets used for a 30-30 are specifically designed to expand at those lower velocities so take care when choosing your hunting bullets.
One way to address that is to use 130 grain spitzers that are designed for lighter game. In addition to their thinner jackets you can boost their velocity. Also their shorter noses fit the Remington's box magazine better.
 
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