.303 Brit = Good Deer Round?

In the early 90s we went shooting in the hills where there was a 3X3 foot steel gong hanging at 600 yards. I only had non magnum sixguns but my friends brother had a beat up $100 British .303 with an inexpensive scope on it. I watched him shatter a coke bottle next to that gong then hit a piece of what was left again. Amazing.
 
In the early 90s we went shooting in the hills where there was a 3X3 foot steel gong hanging at 600 yards. I only had non magnum sixguns but my friends brother had a beat up $100 British .303 with an inexpensive scope on it. I watched him shatter a coke bottle next to that gong then hit a piece of what was left again. Amazing.
I'll bet it wasn't a No. 5 :D:D:D:D:D
 
If you can get one of them to group at 100 yards and have
1,000 to 1,500 ft/lbs of energy with the weight bullet.......

You are good to go as long as it is not a FMJ bullet.
 
With proper loads, I compares pretty good with standard loads such as the 30-06, 308, mausers, etc. Why not!


Hmmm , does it?

A quick comparison of WWII spec ammo used by the major players shows the old .303 Brit in 4th place behind the 7.62 Russian , 8x57 Mauser and 30-06.

Most domestic 8mm hunting ammo with 170gr bullets is rather weak compared to original German service loads , but perfectly adequate for deer to elk size game.

Surprisingly the Win .303 load is slightly more powerful than their 8mm.

Winchester 8mm 170gr PP - 2360fps MV 2102ft.lbs ME
Winchester .303 180gr PP - 2460fps MV 2418ft.lbs ME
Winchester 7.62x54R 180gr - 2625fps MV 2750ft.lbs ME
Winchester 30-06 180gr PP - 2700fps MV 2913ft.lbs ME
 
I think with the right loads the .303 easily outclasses the 30-30 and is close enough to the .308 to call it a draw. Of course, you can run a comparison and see...

Is the .303 in the same class as a .30-06? No, but at 75 yards or less, a deer will never know the difference.
 
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I think with the right loads the .303 easily outclasses the 30-30 and is close enough to the .308 to call it a draw. Of course, you can run a comparison and see...

On the Remington website , ya can do a direct comparison. Just check the rounds ya want and hit COMPARE.

I'm surprised that the .303 factory ammo is more powerful than 8mm. I've read this is due to concerns over using it in old 1888 Comission rifles with the .318 J bore.

But the older SMLE actions were never really considered very strong.
 
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On the Remington website , ya can do a direct comparison. Just check the rounds ya want and hit COMPARE.

I'm surprised that the .303 factory ammo is more powerful than 8mm. I've read this is due to concerns over using it in old 1888 Comission rifles with the .318 J bore.

But the older SMLE actions were never really considered very strong.

They're strong enough for the load used, and No. 4 and 5 rifles were stronger. The Indian Ishapore 7.62mm SMLE's are made of stronger steel than the old No. 1 rifles.

If I owned a 8X57mm Mauser and wanted to hunt, I'd use Norma or some other Euro ammo loaded to modern specs. But I wouldn't be using it in an old M-88 Commission Rifle. I'd get a modern sporter by Waffen-Frankonia or somebody, built on a M-'98 action. Does CZ make 8mm's? Do DWM and RWS still load ammo?

I really wouldn't buy a new 8mm. The .30/06 just is more practical. I do see a use for the 6.5X5mm and the 7X57mm.
 
I've enjoyed my 1917 No. 1 Mklll* for the last twenty years since I bought it at a Big 5 Sporting Goods store for $85.
316c7c4b-ea8c-4f52-a277-3ecf340861a2_zps5ac2eee2.jpg

I stripped the stock with mineral spirits and rubbed on 30 ish coats of boiled linseed oil. It glows.
MPSmithWesson38spljpg006.jpg

That full wood stock is HEAVEN to hold in the cold compared to a steel barrel.
2001-20021493_zps602b60d8.jpg

I've never killed a deer with mine but that is mainly because I take other guns for them. I have a lot of confidence in the old rifle, having killed four coyotes with four shots over the years.
303CoyoteJune262013016_zpsaff77e9d.jpg

I've tried shooting milsurp rounds, Winchester, Federal and Remington factory ammunition through mine. It definitely prefers the Remington 180 gr. Round Nosed Core-Lokt rounds and I highly suggest you try them. CB
 
I've enjoyed my 1917 No. 1 Mklll* for the last twenty years since I bought it at a Big 5 Sporting Goods store for $85.
[URL="http://i920.photobucket.com/albums/ad50/ccwinn/Guns/316c7c4b-ea8c-4f52-a277-3ecf340861a2_zps5ac2eee2.jpg"] [/URL]
I stripped the stock with mineral spirits and rubbed on 30 ish coats of boiled linseed oil. It glows.
[URL="http://i920.photobucket.com/albums/ad50/ccwinn/Guns/MPSmithWesson38spljpg006.jpg"] [/URL]
That full wood stock is HEAVEN to hold in the cold compared to a steel barrel.
[URL="http://i920.photobucket.com/albums/ad50/ccwinn/Guns/2001-20021493_zps602b60d8.jpg"] [/URL]
I've never killed a deer with mine but that is mainly because I take other guns for them. I have a lot of confidence in the old rifle, having killed four coyotes with four shots over the years.
[URL="http://i920.photobucket.com/albums/ad50/ccwinn/Hunting%20Pics/303CoyoteJune262013016_zpsaff77e9d.jpg"] [/URL]
I've tried shooting milsurp rounds, Winchester, Federal and Remington factory ammunition through mine. It definitely prefers the Remington 180 gr. Round Nosed Core-Lokt rounds and I highly suggest you try them. CB

I always like your posts.

Is your .38 wearing the original stocks? It looks like a Transition piece, ca. 1946-'48?

How'd you do on steelhead trout this year? You get any salmon? Which kind?
 
Is your .38 wearing the original stocks? It looks like a Transition piece, ca. 1946-'48?

How'd you do on steelhead trout this year? You get any salmon? Which kind?

Yes, those are original stocks on that 1941 Military & Police, but I put them on just for that picture... It really wears what works better for shooting, some Uncle Mikes neoprene grips!

Steelhead was slow this year, I might've caught a half dozen. Salmon - make that Chinook (aka King salmon) was awesome in the Columbia River this year, a record breaking run. Both of my freezers are full and I gave away a lot to family too. The overall size was smaller this year though with most fish in the 12-16 lb. range, the biggest just 24 lbs, when oftentimes we'll catch a couple that are in the mid thirties.

You get out here in late August Texas Star, and I'll take you fishing. CB
 
It's a good caliber.It will do the job that you want it for.
 
I started reloading with the 303 in 1979 or 80. The only major problem is, many chambers are long/loose. This is so filthy ammo will chamber in the heat of combat, and with new ammo there is no problem at all. But with full length resizing, after somewhere around 5 times (in my first 3 Enfields) there would be head separation and during extraction the back of the case would just pull off. This seemed to be a common enough occurrence that mil-surplus stuck case extractors were common in the 70's & 80's. A 30-06 stuck case extractor has also worked for me. Another way I learned to remove stuck and headless cases was: 1) Remove bolt, and if necessary the next cartridge that you jammed into it. 2) take a very large straight slot screwdriver (A foot or so long and size #1, #0, or #00) think of a screwdriver you would remove a butt stock with, then slide it inside the stuck case and bump it tight give it a half twist and pull back. 1 to 3 attempts would free 95% of stuck cases. Eventually you would need to get a stuck case remover. Most were made to screw onto the end of the military cleaning rod and stick through the rear of the case and pull it out, some you just drop in like a new round and push in and extract with the bolt and some you push in by hand or bolt and use the cleaning rod to push the out from the muzzle. I also have a 1903 Citadel Martini in 303 with Enfield rifling (for smokeless) and never had the brass problems even when using Black Powder loads (with jacketed bullets like the original Medford loads). Get your practice in and have fun hunting. Ivan
PS- If you have an abundance of surplus ammo, you could pull the FMJ bullet and seat a hunting bullet over the same powder charge, but you must clean like it was corrosive primed ammo (because it is!) Save the pulled bullets and trade or sell them. Ivan
 
Privi-Partisan makes very good soft point hinting loads for the .303 which are very affordable compared to many others. It is good ammo and good brass.
Back in the '90s, a bunch of Greek surplus .303 headstamped "MXP" (MHR in Greek) came in.

A friend has a P-14. With that Greek .303, it was dead on at 600 yards.
 
all the rifles in your you list will be suitable for deer
the 303 enfield, the 30cal mossin nagant, the 30 cal sks, and the mauser, these 4 platforms are used every year to take numerous deer.

and many of each have been used for hunting for decades, I would use the one that shot best, and carried the easiest, if you are going with glass on top I would see which one I could get a mount for the easiest as well, but it sounds like Santa has that covered, however at 75 yards scope will not be needed

as far as a 30-30 I broke a a lnib 1967 Canadian Winchester model 94 rifle out of the box this year. with a 26" barrel, to deer hunt with, and took an 180 lb 140" 8 point at 250 yards with the gun, using a 35 dollar 3x9 tasco scope on a side mount

I was shooting the 160 grain hornady leverlution ftx ammo, the gun was shooting half dollar at 100 yards , and when the deer came out I put the crosshair's , just below the back bone and the round impacted center of the deer's engine room, he went down like he was hit with thors hammer

I have several other deer rifles from 243,270,7mmrem-mag, 30-06, 257 Roberts, 257weatherby, all proven rifles with much higher dollar glass on them, but I just decided I wanted to hunt old school this year, so I broke the long barreled lever gun out of the box and hunted with it, and was impressed with the guns performance, but that extra 6 inches of barrel makes a lot of difference than shooting a 20" lever carbine
 
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TFor 75 yards, I would not use a scope (but take along binoculars).

I disagree. Scopes will take in light for one thing. I shot a buck this year around 40 yards in the neck, I wouldn't have done that shot with iron. Last year double long, scope, but I had to look for it.

I do have 44mag lever with peeps, and it is a fun gun. I bought it for walking.

I am not saying scope is a must have, I am just saying I think it is better in alot of situations. Especially for taking in light.

I hunt hardwoods, and never shot more then 45 yards, usually around 30.
 
I sure like mine. It'll knock down anything I need it to knock down around here. I just got a Parker Hale #5A rear aperture sight for it, but that doesn't show up in this photo. In fact, I still was missing some screws and bolts -- which I now have -- when I took this photo during the restoration of this almost unused, 1945 built, No. 1 Mk. III* I found down here going for a song.

I am sorry I am not wearing my bathrobe for this photo which I understand is now expected on this forum for any and all new Lee Enfield photography, but my Midway Tactical schmock and emergency bib will have to suffice.

 
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I started reloading with the 303 in 1979 or 80. The only major problem is, many chambers are long/loose. This is so filthy ammo will chamber in the heat of combat, and with new ammo there is no problem at all. But with full length resizing, after somewhere around 5 times (in my first 3 Enfields) there would be head separation and during extraction the back of the case would just pull off. This seemed to be a common enough occurrence that mil-surplus stuck case extractors were common in the 70's & 80's. A 30-06 stuck case extractor has also worked for me. Another way I learned to remove stuck and headless cases was: 1) Remove bolt, and if necessary the next cartridge that you jammed into it. 2) take a very large straight slot screwdriver (A foot or so long and size #1, #0, or #00) think of a screwdriver you would remove a butt stock with, then slide it inside the stuck case and bump it tight give it a half twist and pull back. 1 to 3 attempts would free 95% of stuck cases. Eventually you would need to get a stuck case remover. Most were made to screw onto the end of the military cleaning rod and stick through the rear of the case and pull it out, some you just drop in like a new round and push in and extract with the bolt and some you push in by hand or bolt and use the cleaning rod to push the out from the muzzle. I also have a 1903 Citadel Martini in 303 with Enfield rifling (for smokeless) and never had the brass problems even when using Black Powder loads (with jacketed bullets like the original Medford loads). Get your practice in and have fun hunting. Ivan
PS- If you have an abundance of surplus ammo, you could pull the FMJ bullet and seat a hunting bullet over the same powder charge, but you must clean like it was corrosive primed ammo (because it is!) Save the pulled bullets and trade or sell them. Ivan

There is a way to get more reloads but it is a little involved and you need to shoot the new ammo first at a range. What you do is place a rubber O ring or something similar over the round so that when you close the bolt, the round is pushed firmly back against the bolt. When you shoot the brass stretch will all take place at the shoulder. Remove the empty case, mark it with the serial number of the rifle it was fired in and neck resize only. Yes, it now means those rounds only work in that rifle, but it is s small price to pay for likely doubling the number of reloads the case will take.

The guys in the Enfield section of Gunboards do this all the time.
 
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