Okay, now I have some questions. You say you have a 32-44 converted to .38 Special. That makes absolutely no sense to me at all, if for no other reason than it's a monumental amount of work for somone to do. My knee-jerk rection to all this is you have a 38-44 barrel and cylinder on what may be a 32-44 frame. Or maybe you have a 38-44 barrel and a 32-44 cylinder (bored out for .38 Special) on a 32-44 frame.
Just for drill, I put a .38 Special round into my 38-44 cylinder. It rattles around----fits like socks on a rooster. I put the .38 Special round into the barrel. It SEEMS to be loose there too----seems to fit better/tighter in a.38 Special barrel. That said, I have no idea of the correct bore diameter of a 38-44, but it wouldn't surprise me to learn that it's larger than the .357" bore of a .38 Special------just as the .38 S&W diameter is larger than the .38 Special. I don't recall the diameter of the .38 S&W right off----.361" maybe, but I am constantly amused when I hear about folks who have bored out .38 S&W cylinders to accept .38 Specials-------------and then wonder why the gun is staggeringly inaccurate.
So, to my questions: How do you know your gun was a 32-44? (You mentioned a three digit serial number. If yours has a three digit number, and it's below 552 (the first 38-44), then yours was a 32-44 for sure and certain!) Are your cylinder, barrel latch, and barrel numbered to the frame? (If you know for certain your frame was a 32-44 and all the other numbers match the frame, then it was for certain a 32-44 converted to .38 Special----never mind how much work was involved----unless, of course, your matching numbers came about because of somebody with a hammer and a set of number punches-----which happened to me-----once!)
That's enough for now----let's see where that takes us.
Ralph Tremaine
And then again, maybe you know your barrel was a 32-44 because that's what's stamped on the barrel----the later guns carried the caliber markings.