.32 Hand Ejector Value?

22lrfan

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I spotted an unusual looking S&W at a local shop a couple of days ago. They were getting ready to close so I only had time to take a couple of quick photos. What looked strange to me was the location of the rear sight and the engraving on the cylinder. I sat down with my SCSW earlier tonight and figured out what is was. It appears to be a very early .32 Hand Ejector 1st model. SCSW says serial numbers ranged from 1 to 19712 and made from 1896 to 1903. The serial number on this one is 17xx. It's marked $350 and I originally thought that was high but looking at it's condition and the prices in the SCSW I may need to go make him an offer on it. What do y'all think?
 

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That might be a neat gun to have. It looks very much like a Model 1896 to me. I think I'd want to have it at a reasonable price, say 250 ish. Then again I've been wrong before.
 
That might be a neat gun to have. It looks very much like a Model 1896 to me. I think I'd want to have it at a reasonable price, say 250 ish. Then again I've been wrong before.
SCSW says it was also known as the Model 1986.
 
That's a good deal! I would have grabbed it.

It's nicer than 90% of those still out there. I never liked them but once I satisfied my higher priority acquisitions, I got one then another once I realized how unique and different they are from all subsequent models.
That made it desirable to me but I like to discover and study them, so that may not make them appeal to others, However they're all good shotters and that one is even missing the extractor rod knob like so many are!

A little massaging with Mother's Mag Wheel polish, SemiChrome or Flitz while watching the news, and it'll look like new.


THE MODEL OF 1896 .32 HAND EJECTOR

This is the very first Hand Ejector produced by S&W. You'll notice they have no cartridge marking.

These were produced and shipped way out of serial # order over a period of 8 years. Shipping dates could be any time in that period, only an Historical letter will indicate the actual date. A lot of lower numbered guns shipped very late.

Three features that vary during production are the length of the hammer, # of side plate screws, and extractor rod knob: there are long and short hammer spurs and 3 or 4 side plate screws.

Standard barrel lengths were 3 1/4", 4 1/4", and 6".

There are also target models which are rare.

Enjoy and don't be afraid to shoot it with any standard velocity off-the-shelf ammo. Ammo won't be found everywhere but it's still produced. You'll love it's accuracy.

Also, 1st Models are all antiques. Frames were manufactured and serial numbered before 1899. This is one S&W model does not have a antique serial number cut-off based on ship date. Gary (glowe)


DIFFERENCES IN THE 1896 vs. ALL LATER .32 I FRAMES:

Hand Ejector 1896, First Model - Fresh Gun Porn 4 U
There are six unusual features that are present in the First Model. The first is that the cylinder stop is located on the top strap and engages the cylinder from the top. The stop is hammer-actuated -- when the hammer moves back the stop lifts up. S&W never used a top-mounted cylinder stop again. The last time they had was in the old Model No. 2 (.32 caliber).
12CylinderStop1.jpg

Photo credit: davidj



11RecoilShieldDetail.jpg

Photo credit: davidj



The second unusual feature is the use of hardened steel shims to reinforce the cylinder stop notches. According to Jinks' A History of Smith & Wesson, S&W installed hardened steel shims from 1896 until 1908. The practice stopped in 1908 because S&W began using an improved steel for cylinders.

06CylinderScroll-SWDetail.jpg

Photos by daivedj



The third unusual feature is the 1st style ‘action lockout’ on the rear of the yoke shaft which locks out the trigger/action when cyl is opened. This model did not have a cyl release thumb piece or rear cyl lock bolt.

All later hand ejector models, replaced it with the thumb piece and bolt (with a spring and plunger) that pushes the rear bolt forward to lockout the hammer/action from functioning with the cyl open, by interfering with the hook on the back of the hammer.

The fourth unusual feature is the cyl detent to hold open the cyl which was deleted after the Model of 1903, 2nd Model but contimued on K and N frames intermittently until WWII.

Plunger shown here in bottom of yoke and has a spring underneath it:

YokeDetentClose-up-.jpg





The fifth unusual feature is the cyl release:
The cylinder is kept in place and cases ejected the same way as a modern Hand Ejector via the cylinder pin. The difference is a “pull push” action instead of pushing the cylinder pin out of engagement with the thumb latch, you pull it out of engagement by pulling forward on the ejector rod. The barrel lug wasn't added to Hand Ejectors until the M1902. The "pull forward" latch was also used on the 2nd and 3rd Model Ladysmiths.

The sixth is a barrel set screw instead of a cross pin:

attachment.php

Photo credit: glowe


http://smith-wessonforum.com/s-w-ha...and-ejector-knowledge-test.html#post140281065

attachment.php

Photo credit: glowe


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Photo credit: glowe
 
Learn something here every day! It still is a bit odd looking to me and I'm sure I've overlooked one or two at various gun shows. :( Not anymore!
 
Hope you were able to get back there and pick it up. That would be a good deal and not last long in my area.
 
Haven't had a chance to get back over there yet. I hope to make it Sat. Got my fingers crossed that it is still there.
 
I would agree that if you want a 1st Model 32 HE, I would get it, but don't agree that the price is a huge bargain. I follow these guns and they are selling for less often at auction. I think the buyers are like the members above, who either do not like the appearance of the gun or are not familiar enough to make a purchase. There were about 20,000 made and if you go on the hunt for one, auction houses often have them for sale.

Personally, I really like the gun, since it represents the very first hand ejector made by S&W. To me this model is a must have for those who collect vintage S&W HEs. All frames were made before 1899, so all qualify as antiques by the BATF. Unfortunately, many sellers do not know much about what they are selling, so will ask for an FFL anyway, but once you get it in your hands, it can be owned without regulation or registration in almost all states, which is another reason to own them.

There were 3 barrel lengths, 3 14", 4 1/4", and 6", as shown below. For me the design and appearance is just fine. The original box is shown with another example I have and was what this model was shipped in.
 

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^^^ Those examples weren't $350. ;)

All were purchased from one to four years ago. and $375 was the highest price paid for one. Are they worth more than what I paid for them, I hope so, but low demand has often proven otherwise. Taking your time and searching for guns at auction companies rather than depending on local gun shops or inflated minimum bids on GB, will yield some high grade 1st Models for decent prices. Unfortunately, this model is one of several S&W models that have not garnered much popularity among gun collectors.
 
All were purchased from one to four years ago. and $375 was the highest price paid for one. Are they worth more than what I paid for them, I hope so, but low demand has often proven otherwise. Taking your time and searching for guns at auction companies rather than depending on local gun shops or inflated minimum bids on GB, will yield some high grade 1st Models for decent prices. Unfortunately, this model is one of several S&W models that have not garnered much popularity among gun collectors.

You're a good shopper. Nice 1896s at the auctions I've seen have gone for considerably more.
 
$300 was a good deal. I had a blued specimen, 100% unfired, that I put on my sale table at the Reno S&WCA Symposium last year for $1,200. and it went before I could get set up. Quality sells. Ed.
 
Glad to hear it. Otherwise I was going to ask you to buy it and send it to me!
That's the very first swing out cylinder 'Hand Ejector' Smith. It lead to the original K frame which became the famous Model 10. It's a unique mix of old and new technology. I have a few and I love 'em.
 
Got home and shot it some and it shoots great. I worked on it for several hours with Flitz and it cleaned up pretty good. Serial number on butt, cylinder, barrel and ejector all match. Couldn't get the grips off to check them. The grip screw is rusted and the brass insert is turning with the screw. I've got it soaking with penetrating oil. Any tips on how to get it out?
 

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I have done this before by placing a drop of very light oil on the threaded end of the scew and letting it sit for an hour or more. Find a wood dowel that fits tightly into the escutcheon. clean the oil out of the "cup", place the wood dowel in a vise and push the stock against it firmly while trying to turn the screw from the other side. The wood should hold the brass escutcheon in place and the screw should loosen. If it does not work, the next best thing is to use a small amount of super glue and glue the dowel into the Escutcheon. That will allow you to apply more pressure to turn the screw out.
 
Gary,

That's an excellent technique. Actually also gluing the escutcheon to the grip will keep it from turning when reassembling the grips on the gun.
 
I like to remove it from the stock when I get the screw out and then clean the wood and brass with alcohol and paint thinner. When dry, using a toothpick, apply a mixed 2 part epoxy to the wood and press the escutcheon back in position. With epoxy, you have time to get the brass in just the right position before it cures and easily wipe up the uncured epoxy with paint thinner on a cloth if any squeezes out. I can almost guarantee that it will never spin loose again.
 
I used Bondic with the UV light. Still holding after almost two years.
 

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