32 long accuracy

[duman444]

I was given a nickeled 32 Hand ejector first or no revision a few years ago. SWCA says is shipped in 1903. 4"-barrel, gun is extremely corroded, and the barrel is heavily pitted and rifling does not look that strong. Gun is not accurate at all and everything I am reading about them; they are supposed to be very accurate. I see a nickeled 6" 32-20 (32 Winchester) barrel on E-Bay from a -5 revision with light corrosion in bore, strong rifling and about the same corrosion on outside as my frame. Other than the barrel marking being wrong, is there anything else that would stop this from working on the 32 long?

Also, when I got my 32 out of the safe to compare-noticed the cylinder is not completely carrying up. I did not notice this the last time I shot it, will manually advance it the next time to see if improves the accuracy. Feels like its lacking about a 32nd of an inch to lock. Looking down the barrel, I can see the right edge of the cylinder until I finish the rotation. I'm sure that's hurting accuracy. 

 

[Toolguy]

The cylinder has to line up with the barrel, or it shaves off part of the bullet as it goes into the barrel. I would get that fixed, and see where you're at. That will need to be done no matter what barrel you have on it.

 

[duke2002]

If you can find someone that can make gas check bullets it mite clean up sone of the barrel. A bullet that matches your gun will help once you get it in working order. I have one from 1915 that shoots lead 115 really good.

 

[Alk8944]

The .32 HE is an I-Frame gun. The .32-20s are K-Frame. There is significant difference in barrel shank diameter. Second there is no such thing as a "dash number" for any early model S&W/ Dash numbers occur only after model numbers were assigned, 1958 and later. All .32-20 S&Ws were manufactured no later than 1930. You are expecting far too much accuracy wise from a revolver that was never intended to be a target pistol.

 

[gwpercle]

Your revolver ... has Issues !
The 32 Long is an accurate round but the revolver you shoot it out of must have a good barrel . good bore , a good crown and the action must be tight and timed correctly ... it doesnt matter what the caliber is ... the revolver has ti be in good shooting condition .
Gary

 

[steelslaver]

Find a wider I/J frame hand and it should fix your carry up problem. Keep looking for a barrel, but know this the I frame cylinders are shorter than the J frame ones and if you try to install a latter J frame barrel on an I frame the barrel extension will be a bit short and a couple turns will need to be removed from rear shoulder of barrel. I frames and J frame do have the same .500-36 threads however

 

[Top Strap]

If you can find someone that can make gas check bullets it mite clean up sone of the barrel. A bullet that matches your gun will help once you get it in working order. I have one from 1915 that shoots lead 115 really good.

Hornady makes some .314 XTP HP jacketed bullets that will probably work well when you get your revolver in good working order.

 

[steelslaver]

BTW, it wouldn't be that hard for a competent person to turn the K frame .540-36 threads off and put I/J frame .500-36 threads on. Also the very early 32-20 barrels had .500-36 threads, but I think that only applies to the 1896 models with no lug under the barrel. You can get adjustable 1/2-36 dies on Ebay for under $15. But, I advise using a lathe or making a aliment jig to make sure you start straight. The alignment of the lug locking bolt to ejector rod would be off, but I don't think it would be enough to matter and you could always make a custom bolt. Be easier to madify a J fame barrel and get it nickeled

 

[duman444]

Hornady makes some .314 XTP HP jacketed bullets that will probably work well when you get your revolver in good working order.

Do you have a source for these? Shoot indoors and prefer not to use lead in my reloads. Can only find .312 Hornady bullets on my search.

 

[warren5421]

I have the same gun in my hands if I can keep all 6 in a 9" paper plate I am doing good. From a Ramson Rest it will do about 2"+/- according to type of bullet and factory brand.

 

[max503]

Do you have a source for these? Shoot indoors and prefer not to use lead in my reloads. Can only find .312 Hornady bullets on my search.

That's a good reason to powder coat. I shot some HOT loads out of my Contender 44 mag yesterday and didn't have a bit of leading.

 

[Rick Leslie]

I believe 'Tubb' makes a line of bore lapping kits. These consist of bullets embedded with a mild lapping abrasive meant to smooth the rough spots in the bore. Worth a try once you get the mechanics sorted.

Found it. https://www.davidtubb.com/final-finish-loaded-ammo

 

[Top Strap]

Do you have a source for these? Shoot indoors and prefer not to use lead in my reloads. Can only find .312 Hornady bullets on my search.

Sorry I may have been in error as I size cast at .314" but believe the jacketed Hornady's are .312"

 

[Hondo44]

First go shoot it again as you suggested, while making sure the cylinder is locked. The 32 is a naturally accurate cartridge and low velocity. I've seen some decent accuracy from several of these old Smiths with fairly warn barrels. If accuracy isn't bad after shooting it again, then look into fixing the cylinder lock up. If not look for a little nicer gun with a decent bore for your money.