34-2 Cylinder

[sjs]

I have a 34-2 two inch that had very sticky extraction. I took it to a local smith and he said he cleaned up the chambers a little bit. He said it was still a little sticky but manageable.

I took it to the range today and it was still sticky extraction but less so. Problem is after a few cylinders of 22 shot through it the cylinder will now not open. The latch moves but the cylinder is not released. I am afraid to try to use force to open it.

I will take it to a different smith but I don't want to put a great deal more money into it. Any suggestions as to what might be the specific problem?

 

[steelslaver]

Maybe the ejector rod came part way unscrewed. Place a business card under the cylinder while cocking and that will hold the cylinder stop down so you can turn the cylinder. Hold onto the end of ejector rod and turn cylinder to the left looking from rear of gun to tighten it back up. If that does it. Remove the cylinder assy. Stick the ejector rod tip in some brass plates clamped in a vise and with fired cases in chambers tighten snug by hand.

 

[sjs]

Thank you very much, it worked exactly as you described.

 

[ruger 22]

My 22 cal revolvers from Smith have sticky extraction of empties and it varies with the ammo used. Both my 17-1 and 34-1 do well with Federal shells and very poorly with Winchesters.. I run the cleaning brush through them with each load of shells when shooting and it solves the problem reasonably. Now that I have a Ruger Single Six, I save the Winchesters for it and use the Federals with the Smiths. Problem solved to my satisfaction.

 

[steelslaver]

I used to have that problem on a couple of my S&W 22 revolvers, then ran a 22lf finishing reamer through then and have never looked back. S&W is know for tight 22lr chambers. The reamer only removed a tiny bit of metal from each chamber, but boy what a difference. I can fire a 100 rds off what ever brand and easily eject empties

You can rent the reamer from 4 D Reamer Rentals.
Some brake cleaner and some cutting oil, a padded vise and a tap handle and in 15 minutes your done.

Place the cylinder in the vise, some hard wood will work for padding. You can leave ejector rod and extractor in place if you want. Oil the reamer and insert into chamber and turn to the right, NEVER the left. Just light pressure. It will probably won't even cut until it is about 1/2 way in. turn slowly and evenly. Probably bottom out before it starts to take much effort. If it does start to take a bit of effort remover it turning to the right as you do, Spray off the reamer and chamber with brake cleaner to remove tiny metal chips, coat with oil and continue. Once the ledge in cutter for the rim touches the bottom of your recesses you are done with that chamber. Clean and oil cutter and do the next chamber. The reamer just took out a tiny bit of very fine cutting from each chamber and took very little effort to turn.

 

[Babysitr]

I bought a finish reamer and 6 revolvers later, very happy....the smith didn't advise to do that?..not everyone likes the idea

 

[sjs]

I bought a finish reamer and 6 revolvers later, very happy....the smith didn't advise to do that?..not everyone likes the idea

No, he was clearly reluctant but didn't say why.

 

[Hondo44]

He lacked the knowledge and experience of course. Probably best he was conservative instead of experimenting on your gun. Many 'Smiths' these days are parts changers with little knowledge of revolvers, and only used to working on semi auto pistols.

 

[H Richard]

Knowledgeable "revolver" Smiths are getting few and far between. Most that hang a "Smith" shingle out are 1911/AR/Glock parts changers, and don't have any idea what to do with a revolver.

I have done about 8 S&W .22's so far, and from 1931 Outdoorsman up to and including a 617-6. Only one didn't need it real bad, but was still improved by it.

 

[MygunisaS&Wrevolver]

I always apply Dychem to the outer recessed rim of the chamber. It makes it easier to tell when the ledge of the chamber reamer bottoms out and you then know that you go no further, particularity important with stainless guns because its harder to see.

 

[Protocall_Design]

Good tip. A red or blue magic marker works well, also.