340 pd

skipnsb

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The current 340 pd shows it to to be a scandium frame with titanium cylinder. I am looking at a black cylinder model. Where there other variations without the scandium frame or titanium cylinder? I am looking at a picture showing a black cylinder. Are there variations that used a steel cylinder?

Seller does not know. I can look a it but its 1.5 hour trip one way.


tia
 
340M&P

You are most likely looking at a M&P340 they come with a stainless cylinder and a scandium frame..13.3 oz compared to the 11.4oz 340Pd with the titanium cylinder. The 340m&P also sports a XS standard dot front night sight and a deep round groove rear sight as opposed to normal square notch rear sight. The 340PD has either a fiber optic front sight or a standard red ramp style and the standard square rear notch sight. Both models can be found without the internal lock if you prefer that option.
 
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I've never seen a 340PD with a black finish on the cylinder and I would check into it carefully before buying. The dead-giveaway should be weight. Check the weight against factory specs, with the factory rubber stocks in place. The stocks should have a molded-in S&W logo. My 340PD has Hogue Bantam-style grips but newer guns I think have a different style. If the gun is too heavy it's likely the cylinder has been replaced.
 
Thanks for replies

it was a mp not a pd so no titanium cylinder.
thanks for the replies.
 
Both are great guns, just worth different $. I love black lightweight centennial j frames. No hammer to snag, and less likely to have dirt and lint work it's way inside the action.

The 442 if you are on a budget. 38+p, non changeable front sight.

The mp340 if you like the sights and want a stainless cylinder. .357

The 340pd, is the top of the line. The lightest of the three. But you have to pony up the most $ for it, then be careful cleaning the cylinder. .357

So in the end the m&p is probably the winner, although I'd rather have 2 442's than only one of the 340's.

Obviously just my opinion's worth what you paid for it. Most people have little tolerance to shooting .357 out of these guns, so the .38+p is not really a problem. Good luck finding what you want.
 
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I have two 340PDs, one older (ramp front sight with "orange plastic toothbrush" insert) and one newer (green fiberoptic front sight), and both are black with gray-coated titanium alloy cylinders.

I've never seen one with a black or silver colored cylinder.

Just as an aside and FWIW, I've shot these extensively with all available premium commercial .357 Magnum and .38 Special+P JHP loads, in bullet weights ranging from 110 to 158gr, and IME and in my hands they have the optimal combination of accuracy, precision and "controllability" with Speer Gold Dot .38 Special+P Short Barrel 135gr JHP.

This is an ideal lightest-possible-weight carry gun.
 
I have two 340PDs, one older (ramp front sight with "orange plastic toothbrush" insert) and one newer (green fiberoptic front sight), and both are black with gray-coated titanium alloy cylinders.

I've never seen one with a black or silver colored cylinder.

Just as an aside and FWIW, I've shot these extensively with all available premium commercial .357 Magnum and .38 Special+P JHP loads, in bullet weights ranging from 110 to 158gr, and IME and in my hands they have the optimal combination of accuracy, precision and "controllability" with Speer Gold Dot .38 Special+P Short Barrel 135gr JHP.

This is an ideal lightest-possible-weight carry gun.

Just picked up a PD to go with my 2 M&Ps. Shot the PD 2x this week: it likes CCI Blazer .357 158gr loads and the Perfecta .357 158gr ammo. The W-W 158gr .357 JHP load is also tolerable. I use only .357 ammo to minimize fouling. I have a cleaning brush with plastic bristles: is this OK for gently cleaning the Ti cylinder? Appreciate any insight. Thanks in advance.

Kaaskop49
Shield #5103
 
Hi kaaskop49;

Yes, plastic or nylon bristle brushes are fine for cleaning the cylinder face and chambers on the 340PD. (I use old toothbrushes on the face and caliber-size brushes from Brownells for the chambers.)

Other owners have reported scratching the cylinder coating by using even brass brushes, so though I've used steel brushes on stainless cylinders, I've been very cautious about cleaning the 340PD cylinders, and don't worry about trying to get the burn rings off. ;)

BTW, I can't make a better recommendation for a cleaning agent that's safe on the 340PD's cylinder coating than M-Pro 7; I've used it for years with never any damage to the finish. (Other solvents may be fine too, but I'm certain M-Pro 7 is safe.)

Did you find that those .357 158gr loads hit to POA?

All 1 7/8" barrel .38 Special & .357 S&W "snubbies" were ostensibly zeroed for the 158gr loads once upon a time, but I'm not sure if that's so any more.

My own 340PDs had less consistent precision (broader spread) with all the .357 loads than with the better .38 Special loads, though the .38 Special loads did tend to hit low.
 
Just picked up a PD to go with my 2 M&Ps. Shot the PD 2x this week: it likes CCI Blazer .357 158gr loads and the Perfecta .357 158gr ammo. The W-W 158gr .357 JHP load is also tolerable. I use only .357 ammo to minimize fouling. I have a cleaning brush with plastic bristles: is this OK for gently cleaning the Ti cylinder? Appreciate any insight. Thanks in advance.

Kaaskop49
Shield #5103

I'd say your on the right track shooting magnums out of it to help on the chamber fouling, plastic brushes are a good plan. Stay away form chlorinated cleaners, some who have these titanium cylinders and shoot extensively use Hopes ELITE, never Hopes #9! These titanium cylinders are impregnated with carbon to fill in the grain structure and it is only so thick (few thousandths thick) and if you wear/scrub it off, erosion will quickly follow. The worst thing you can do is shoot light hot 357 rounds. I have even seen 125gr 357 do damage in just a few rounds. I like to stick with 135 gr or heavier. I do NOT try to clean my cylinder face other than to lightly brush it with a nylon brush. The burn swirls on the sides of te cylinder get left alone also, just adds character if you ask me. There are 340PD owners who claim many thousand rounds through their revolvers and there are those who have erosion problems quickly, I really would caution against cleaning the cylinders to like new/unfired condition if you plan on a lot of shooting.;)
 
attn SAWBONES, michpatriot

Many thanks for your informative, helpful replies. I've already found this 340PD to be sturdier than my old 360SC of 2001, the cylinder of which 'rattled' (would not lock up firmly on firing) after very few magnum rounds.

The advice to refrain from using Hoppe's #9 on the Ti cylinder (the reason I have two M&Ps!) provoked an UH-OH; I've been using nothing but #9 for decades. Must get one of the recommended others.

As to POI with 158gr Magnum loads: I do "pie plate" shooting. :) I use half sheets of 8.5x11" typing paper as targets. If I can place all 5 rounds on one of these, or 1 round each on 5 different such targets, I'm content. Also, the DAO action on these modern Js is nowhere near as smooth as the actions on some of the PCs and .38 models (I own enough Js to know! ;)). The substantial recoil doesn't help either. Don't know how I would attempt a 6:00 hold on a bull's eye!

Thanks again, shooters, for your help!

Kaaskop49
Shield #5103
 
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Just picked up a PD to go with my 2 M&Ps. Shot the PD 2x this week: it likes CCI Blazer .357 158gr loads and the Perfecta .357 158gr ammo. The W-W 158gr .357 JHP load is also tolerable. I use only .357 ammo to minimize fouling. I have a cleaning brush with plastic bristles: is this OK for gently cleaning the Ti cylinder? Appreciate any insight. Thanks in advance.

Kaaskop49
Shield #5103
A nylon/plastic brush and Hoppe's Elite are all my Ti cylinders ever see. I haven't had any issues yet.

Enjoy your PD.:cool:

ETA: I should have read the whole thread before I repeated what had already been posted at least three times. Oops.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk
 
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