.357 cylinder cleaning

Jeff423

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How do I remove the ring in the cylinder from firing .38 spec. rounds in a .357?
My brass brush opened up 4 of the 6 cylinders but 2 are still tight. Can I get more aggressive, or just keep on with the .38 brass brush?


Thanks,

Jeff
 
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It's safe to chuck up your brass brush in an electric drill motor and spin the brush in each chamber. This method will produce a clean chamber in seconds versus the manual method that takes several minutes and dozens of passes in each chamber.
 
Some folks have luck using a fired, unsized 357 case as a scraper. A slight bell in the mouth can help as well.

Then follow up with more brass brush.

Hit up the local druggies for a Chore-Boy (copper) pad and you can wrap a few strands of it around the brush, should knock it right out.
 
It's safe to chuck up your brass brush in an electric drill motor and spin the brush in each chamber. This method will produce a clean chamber in seconds versus the manual method that takes several minutes and dozens of passes in each chamber.
+1 I clean my revolver chambers this way. For .38/.357 a .40 cal bore brush seems to work best.
 
A Lewis Lead Remover should do the job also.

I've never been a proponent of shooting .38's in a .357 because of just this situation although many do so. Getting proficient at removing build-up from the chambers is just something I don't need to have on my resume.

Bruce
 
How do I remove the ring in the cylinder from firing .38 spec. rounds in a .357?
My brass brush opened up 4 of the 6 cylinders but 2 are still tight. Can I get more aggressive, or just keep on with the .38 brass brush?


Thanks,

Jeff

Fire three cylinders full of .357 Magnum Jacketed Hollow Point loads!
 
I use the Brownells "Tornado" brush and #9 solvent to clean chambers.
I shoot .38 in .357 chambers all the time for IDPA.
 
Thanks for the advice. I'm embarrassed to admit that I have a Lewis kit and had forgotten it. I just ran it through and "all is well".

Jeff
 
When I used to help train Sheriff's Deputies all shooting was done with 38's, but most of them carried .357's. I bought a Clymer De-Leader. It's basically a chamber reamer, with stops on it. A couple turns, and it cleans all carbon buildup out.
 
I aquired a 686 not to long ago that appeared to have had untold amounts of 38 spl shot threw it & had alot of carbon in the step were the 38 ended & the 357s bottom out in the chamber..
I tried the bronze brush with hoppes#9 + the chore boy on an old 30cal brush but just couldn't get the carbon to come off.. I took the advice of useing spent brass belled out & sharpened the inside case mouth with a tapered reamer & drilled the primer pocket & put a bolt threw with a nut on the outside so I could attache this to my cleaning rod for ease of removal, This realy did the trick as it was chipping the carbon off but still left a small amount behind that I then again was useing the bronze brush with chore boy + hoppes & spun it in a cordless drill on slowest speed & finished with a few seconds in each cylinder hole with the Brownell's Flex hones in medium & then fine..
I was looking down each charge hole with an eye loupe & a bore light..
Here's a pic of the "Tool" I made from a expanded 357 case & made it up to fit my cleaning rod.. Worked well enough that I had to share the tip.. You have to expand the case every 8-10 pushes into the cylinder & being it's brass won't hurt the interior of the cylinders bores..
Gary/Hk
imag0001c.jpg
 

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