357 Hardcast Ammo

MARKS MAN

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Is it OK to shoot either 357 or 38+p Hardcast Ammo thru a S&W 29-2 357?:eek:
 
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It belongs to a friend of mine. He said it was a 29-2 but it could be a 27-2. What he wanted to know if he could put hardcast steel ammo through it. I really have no idea as I am not familier with that type of ammo.
 
A 29-2 is a .44 magnum. Model 28 and model 27 are .357 magnum models. Hard cast lead is fine, hard cast steel would be a big negative, but that might have been a typo. From what I understand is you just want to avoid soft lead at higher velocities (above 1200 fps or so) because it can cause some lead fouling. No permanent damage, but a little more time cleaning after going to the range.
 
Sorry Guys, I spoke with this guy. It is a 27-2 357 S&W. He said the ammo he has been using is fouling up the gun especially the barrel. He wanted to know if hardcast lead ammo would be any better & foul up the gun any less? Is there any brand you would recommend.
 
Sorry Guys, I spoke with this guy. It is a 27-2 357 S&W. He said the ammo he has been using is fouling up the gun especially the barrel. He wanted to know if hardcast lead ammo would be any better & foul up the gun any less? Is there any brand you would recommend.

Hard cast SWC would be better for magnum loads, as pointed out above. I don't think the brand will make a big difference. Just look for HCSWC (hard cast semi wad cutter) loads, or semi-jacketed for that matter.
 
Thanks Norsk, Looks like DoubleTap 38 HCSWC is good to go.
Appricate your time.
 
Lots of gun show reloads use swaged lead bullets or bullets cast from improperly alloyed scrap lead. Some bullet casters use straight wheelweights and any scrap lead they can find. Some use reclaimed 'range lead' , but I'd bet most of that is soft lead from jacketed bullets. And even a few of these newfangled 'lead-free' wheelweights will ruin a pot of good metal.
 
Thanks Navy;
I have use reloads from shows in my 1911PD but not any more & I,ll mention it to my friend. I know he has bought a bunch from shows also. Thanks a bunch
 
Bullet sizing and proper lube are most important to prevent leading.
lts hard getting lead these days and even harder mixing a good alloy. Wheel Weights used to be the best source, but now lead is illegal in lots of states. l have to sort my weights by hand to get the good ones. After sorting l usually have a half dozen piles. A pile of plastic ones. Next are the steel ones marked fe. Most unwanted are zn weights. Zinc turns a pot of melted lead into oatmeal mess. Left are the stick-ons an clip-ons. Clip-ns or COWs are the most desirable. A pot full of these along with a little tin solder make beautiful bullets....
 
I used to be in the bullet business... went to a lot of trouble to make good quality hard cast bullets. If you load your own, you can be sure the lube groove is full & that the bullets are indeed hard enough. I sold a lot of bullets to guys loading 38 Super to Major levels without leading & that's comparable to .357. In fact the bullets can be interchanged in you use a taper crimp.

Another trick is to wipe down a gun inside & out... yes, barrel & chambers too, with BreakFree CLP prior to shooting. (Everything but the grips! LOL!!) Run a treated patch through, then a dry one, leaving just a film. Most of the fouling ends up on top of the film & much faster cleanup. After the Dept Armorer saw me do it, he bought gallon jugs & spray bottles.
 
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