.357 how am I doing?

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Howdy,

Would like some opinions of the greater forum here on how my LEE FCD is doing....

Does the crimp look good? Deep enough? Firm enough?

I loaded 15 total with 1 as a tester ill run 5 check, then another 5 check then run the 4 and check again see if she holds....

I've been reading alot about how to get the bullet seeting die to apply crimp, but never how its accomplished?!?

Any thoughts opinions would be greatly appreciated...

14gr of 2400 and a JSP 158gr pill
 

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When I set up my bullet seating die, I first seat the bullet to the COAL I want. Then I back off the bullet seater and slowly screw the die down until I get the crimp I want. Then with the die tightened in the press, I screw the bullet seater down until it contacts the top of the bullet and set it in place. Now taking another primed and charged piece of brass I slowly seat a bullet and usually get the correct COAL and crimp. I'm sure someone will come in with a better way but this works for me. To be sure we're clear, this is the procedure I use for pistol brass.
 
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Jacketed bullets all seem to have a shallow cannelure for crimping when used in revolvers. Crimp as deep as possible without buckling the case outward below the case mouth.
 
I prefer to have the case mouth as close to the middle of the cannelure as possible, so you might want to seat just a little deeper. The crimp itself looks uniform and the profile appears to be a heavy crimp. I would not further increase the amount of crimp.
 
I prefer to have the case mouth as close to the middle of the cannelure as possible, so you might want to seat just a little deeper. The crimp itself looks uniform and the profile appears to be a heavy crimp. I would not further increase the amount of crimp.

I too prefer the middle of the cannelure as it gives you a little leeway either direction with regards to slight irregularities with bullet seating depth.

When using the bullet seating die with the crimp built-in it is important that all of your brass be uniformed in length if you want a uniform crimp tension. If using the bullet seating die crimper I will usually seat all of the bullets in one step. In a separate step I back the bullet seating stem out a bit and adjust the die for the desired amount of crimp, and then crimp all of them.

I also have the separate factory crimp dies and they don't tend to be as critical as using the bullet seating die for crimping with regards to exactness of case length...…..but to be honest I usually uniform my brass length for everything I handload. It's not that difficult to do.

Dale
 
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It does not take much of an adjustment in a die to go from a light to a heavy crimp on a brass 38/357 case.

I have mine set for a 148 wc target load, std, +P and 357 Magnum hunting loads with a JSP loading.

I am old fashioned and use a single stage loader but it does all the work that I need.
Here is a picture of my set up, that has been posted before.

Notice that there is really is not that much movement in the die setting from a light to a heavy crimp.

Good loading.
 
I would agree with other that it should be seated a little deeper. For reference take a look at a factory round if you have one handy.
 
I do NOT re-load any more as I only shoot factory ammo now.

I still "Carry" when outside my abode.

I am 81 now, and have lost my "sense of humor"....

Bishop,California is my abode now, and have worked here along time in my past career, and is a very very safe community in the High Sierra's.
 
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Crimp looks good. I use a similar bullet for handloads, but crimp to the center of the groove. 14gr of 2400 is a good factory-duplicate load. Used that load years ago. These days, I've found 6.1gr of Universal is good for both of my .357's, and shoots well in my 77-357 rifle. Heavier bullets, I use 296.
 
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You crimp looks fine, maybe a hair too heavy, but serviceable.

I started reloading waaaay pre-web, around '69, and seated all my bullets, those with a crimp groove and a cannalure, to the upper edge of the groove/cannalure and rolled the case mouth in. I figgered the bullet designers knew where to place the groove/cannalure and I disregarded book OAL. Never a problem since then reloading for 9 revolvers in 4 different calibers...
 
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It looks like...

It looks like you at least caught the bottom of the cannelure, which is ok. But note that when you seat the bullet, the roll crimp shortens the case a little so to catch the cannelure good the bullet needs to be a little deeper. Probably seat to where there is just a little cannelure showing at the top and when crimped, it will be in the right place.

Until you get adept at crimping and seating at the same time, you might want to do separate operations. Seat the bullets, then back off the seater and set up the crimp and run them through. i find that I don't need to do that with taper crimps, but if I'm using mixed revolver brass the length of the cases might vary enough to make crimping inconsistent. Of course if you separate brass, you reduce this problem, but my eyes ain't so good and that's a REAL job for me.:)
 
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