.357 Magnum +p+?

[glenwolde]

Good for you for posting this. Yeah, you screwed up but you learned from it and in the end there was no harm done. You're getting lectured but I think you already figured that stuff out.

Reloading isn't so difficult (for most) that it can't be figured out on your own. But of course there are some guys that can't change a light bulb so that's not 100%.

Lee Loaders aren't the easiest tools to work with but they are perfectly capable of loading ammunition that is just as accurate as any other tool.

As you mention, the scoop was remarkably consistent. There's nothing wrong with volume measures, every powder measure is a volume measure. As long as your technique with the dipper is consistent it can be just as accurate as any powder measure. The only other option is to weigh each charge and that is so tedious I won't do it.

Long after I started reloading I decided to try a Lee Loader (.38 Special) and found the resultant reloads just as good as anything using a few tweaks. One of the shortcomings is getting a consistent crimp. I found a thick washer that I put over the loaded round and it acted as a "stop" for the crimp die. This improved results considerably.

So I am of the opinion that all money can buy with reloading equipment is speed. The Lee Loader, used with care, can turn out ammo on a par with my single stage or my Dillion. The only difference is how fast.

 

[tlawler]

If there is one powder a newbie reloader doesn't need to have in his possession it's Titegroup.....in my opinion.

^^^^^^^^
This!

My butt puckered just reading the OP!

 

[cgt4570]

Some Lee stuff is very good. I use a single stage for light work. I have several sets of dies for stuff I only occasionally load for.
BUT I ALWAYS THROW THE DIPPERS AWAY!

 

[Huskerguy]

I think there are several lessons to learn here. No matter what you think you hear from a sales person or from anyone on the internet, it is YOUR responsibility to double check that information. To put it more bluntly: It is always your responsibility to know your powder, bullet and primer combinations with multiple sources.

It is fortunate that you and your firearm are OK. Now proceed in a manner that will ensure that going forward. It sound like you skipped a few pages in the reloading books, but you lived to get it right now. As someone said, read it ALL, multiple times. ABC's or Lymans are a good place to start. Then, please use the manufacturers web sites for appropriate powder and bullet combinations and check that against your manuals.

I can't speak for everyone, but we don't intend to lecture you as an adult but we also want you to be safe. So take this as a friendly reminder of a couple things to do better next time.

 

[Raddoc]

I think there are several lessons to learn here. No matter what you think you hear from a sales person or from anyone on the internet, it is YOUR responsibility to double check that information. To put it more bluntly: It is always your responsibility to know your powder, bullet and primer combinations with multiple sources.

It is fortunate that you and your firearm are OK. Now proceed in a manner that will ensure that going forward. It sound like you skipped a few pages in the reloading books, but you lived to get it right now. As someone said, read it ALL, multiple times. ABC's or Lymans are a good place to start. Then, please use the manufacturers web sites for appropriate powder and bullet combinations and check that against your manuals.

I can't speak for everyone, but we don't intend to lecture you as an adult but we also want you to be safe. So take this as a friendly reminder of a couple things to do better next time.

It just can't be stated strongly enough how fast one's life can be altered...in a fraction of a second. Facially and physically disfigured or worse. This is serious stuff, and we only lecture because we care. You will continue to learn as you grow in reloading, even after years of using the press. With that being said, develop a consistent and simple routine, and start with checking the weight of each powder charge you throw. Even now, after years of reloading, whether on my progressive or turret, I'll check the throw weights every so often just to make sure they're consistent. I've never had to pull more than a couple bullets, and thank the Lord, I've never had a Kaboom.

Blessings to you and yours.

 

[38SPL HV]

Buy yourself a currently published and up to date reloading manual…read it, reread it, read it again BEFORE loading anything.

 

[Raddoc]

Buy yourself a currently published and up to date reloading manual…read it, reread it, read it again BEFORE loading anything.

^^^this. I recommend obtaining 2 or 3 reloading manuals using currently published data to reference, and cross reference. Also, I would suggest sticking to their components list, first, without substitution, as my recommendation to a new reloaded.

 

[johngalt]

What was the source for your 5.0 gr max load? You will find that manuals differ. Without knowing your source, how do you know that 5.0 load is a real maximum?

If Hogden is your source, I've found their loads to be extremely optimistic. My Hornady and Sierra manuals have been far more realistic.

 

[rockquarry]

Buy yourself a currently published and up to date reloading manual…read it, reread it, read it again BEFORE loading anything.

Best advice.

 

[BSA1]

Buy yourself a currently published and up to date reloading manual…read it, reread it, read it again BEFORE loading anything.

Actually the O.P. can save some money by buying the previously published reloading manual off of ebay. The data doesn’t change much especially for cartridges like the .357 Magnum which as been reloaded for decades. Choose powder charges on the low side until you are sure you have all of the steps of reloading down pat.

I have witnessed three revolvers grenade. The scarest one was at the Cowboy Action Shooting match and to this day I clearly still see the top piece of the cylinder narrowly missing the head of the person that was timing the shooter. CAS shooters use low velocity ammunition for speed and safety. The shooter did not understand how to properly reload and at least had a double or maybe even a triple charge of powder. He destroyed a very nice S&W Schofield replica revolver.

I had a shooter destroy his Single Action Colt SAA revolver that I was timing at a CAS match. All I can say is Colt knew what they were doing when they added the top strap to the frame. Three chambers blew out and thankfully for me the top strap kept all of the pieces from escaping. Again a near tragedy caused by improperly reloaded ammunition.

Reloading is fun and can be safely done but smokeless gun powder demands strict attention to detail. When working up a new powder and powder charge I check two different reloading manuals. A, maybe the only, reloading data on the Internet that I trust is on M.D. Smiths website and only after I confirm the data against one of my manuals.

 

[GypsmJim]

Your problem was listening to the guy at Cabelas. It could have been as dangerous as listening to guys on the internet.

Lee's dies, booklets and dippers are awesomely wonderful. Your problem was you DIDN'T READ THE DIRECTIONS.

The manual lists powder type, bullet weight and dipper size. Follow all that and you will make a superb load.

You didn't use the correct powder. It wasn't on the list. You screwed up bad. The problem with today's society is that people go off half cocked. Does anyone know how to read anymore?

Lee's formulas are designed for minimum pressures and safe loads. I agree that a dipper is only as good as the idiot using them, and that they are not as precise as an expensive powder measure. Nevertheless, a dipper used with a scale will provide a charge that is safe, and close enough in precision that normal target shooting will provide adequate results.

 

[STORMINORMAN]

Actually a dipper used in conjunction with a scale gives extra precision & safety in that the powder has been measured 1st by volume and then checked again by weight...

Of course, the accuracy of the scale would be the final determinant, but short loads (aka "squibs") & 2 (or even 3) X loads (KABOOMS!) are easily avoided.

Cheers!

 

[Doug M.]

Ok, I think the OP has received enough of a flogging. If no one made ignorant mistakes, lots of us would not have examples from which to learn, and I'll bet most of us know that the guy in the mirror is capable of being a real knothead.

 

[DWalt]

Titegroup is comparable to the fast handgun and shotshell propellants such as Bullseye, 700-X, Red Dot, AA#2, and Clays. Standard .38 Special loads using such powders will generally be somewhere close to 3.5 grains with 158 grain bullets. You can find all the reliable reloading data you will ever need on the powder distributors’ websites, such as Hodgdon’s, for free. You can also buy sets of different sizes of powder scoops, such as those made by Lee. There are better and faster ways to go, but a set of Lee scoops is actually all you need to load .38 Special (and most other handgun and rifle calibers) safely.

 

[pantannojack]

[/I] The guy at Cabela's said no worries -
(which I've later learned was not quite correct as I told him I intended to load .357 Magnum as well as .38 Special) all of the different powders listed on the sheet said to use the supplied dipper, and he said I couldn't go wrong with using it for TiteGroup.


NEVER Trust a Salesperson.

 

[STORMINORMAN]

[/I] The guy at Cabela's said no worries -
(which I've later learned was not quite correct as I told him I intended to load .357 Magnum as well as .38 Special) all of the different powders listed on the sheet said to use the supplied dipper, and he said I couldn't go wrong with using it for TiteGroup.


NEVER Trust a Salesperson.

Uh...?

I'm SO confused!

Cheers!

 

[cracker57]

the reason one needs multiple manuals and why they may differ in what weight charge to use for powder X is there are more factors than the weight of powder X. The primer used, and the col all make a difference in pressure. I believe the col has a lot to do with pressure and a good manual would explain why, so read them!

 

[Tim357]

Some Lee stuff is very good. I use a single stage for light work. I have several sets of dies for stuff I only occasionally load for.
BUT I ALWAYS THROW THE DIPPERS AWAY!

Why? Have you used them? Once you get a technique down, they are as accurate as anything. Volume measure has some advantages. Consider that all the manufacturers use volume measurement for their loading process.

Also, with a volume measure, the powder column in the case is always the same, given proper technique. If a certain lot of powder is a mite heavier due to moisture, a volume measure will still have the same space taken up in the case. True also, if lighter, it will still occupy the same amount of space in the case.

 

[GypsmJim]

Also, with a volume measure, the powder column in the case is always the same, given proper technique. If a certain lot of powder is a mite heavier due to moisture, a volume measure will still have the same space taken up in the case. True also, if lighter, it will still occupy the same amount of space in the case.

I started reloading with Lee Loaders and dippers. Eventually I graduated to more "upscale" Process.

I bought my first powder measure over 50 years ago. It had a very fine scale to make adjustments with. At that time I was loading several cartridges using Bullseye, Unique and IMR3031.

The first thing I did was do a volumetric calibration for each powder. In each case, plotted on Lotus123, the Rsq. was 99%+.

I find it quite interesting that after all these years those old calibrations are still spot on.

Obviously, if the volume is always the same, the only way the mass can vary is if the density varies. I keep all my powders in original containers, well sealed and well stored, so I would guess that any moisture pickup would be minimal, if at all. My conclusion is that those powder manufacturers have made consistent products over the years.

(PS - all my data is now on Excel....)

 

[rockquarry]

I use four Redding measures; the newest one is more than thirty years old. I've found that settings will often (maybe not always) have to be adjusted at least slightly over time. I don't know whether this is due to powder moisture content or some factor I'm unaware of.

I use quite a variety of powders though far fewer than I used to. I always use a powder scale to verify measure settings every time I use any of the measures. I've used many other measures over the years but don't recall whether re-adjustment of settings was necessary, though I'm pretty sure it was.