.357 too much for 19-3?

basshuntin

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I have read before that a 19-3 can't handle a steady diet of .357's. Is there any truth to that?
 
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I have read before that a 19-3 can't handle a steady diet of .357's. Is there any truth to that?
 
that's the 2.5 inch barrel right? EDIT: No it isn't. Just looked it up. 4 inch.
I've heard tell that any M19 can't handle a steady diet of light .357 Magnum loads (125 gr and below). Now, "being able to handle" in this case, according to these proponents, doesn't mean after a certain number the gun will blow up in your face, but just means that the gun will shoot loose (cylinder) and might even crack the force cone.
I've heard other people say that they've shot lgiht .357 loads through their M-19 for years without any problems.

I guess if nothing else, there is truth in such beliefs in that in ANY gun, the higher velocity and/or pressure the round you put through the gun, the more accelerated the wear will be over time. Wear meaning Hundreds of Thousands of rounds and meaning having to tighten the cylinder and/or replace the ejector star.
For me, I prefer heavy loads. (158-200 gr) in my .38s and .357s. Heavier loads have better penetration. In my opinion, why use a load that is going to do more damage to your gun and less damage to the bad guy, when you can use a load that does more damage to the bad guy and less damage to your gun.
 
A "steady diet" of 357 ammo that would wear out a modern S&W revolver would cost more money than you and I could afford.

Fire away sir.
 
Originally posted by basshuntin:
I have read before that a 19-3 can't handle a steady diet of .357's. Is there any truth to that?

Depends on who you talk to. I say that a steady diet of 158 grain magnums is ok, but not a steady diet of 125 grain magnums. Supposedly, the 125s contribute to forcing cone problems. Use of them occasionally, however, is no problem. Any 38 special of any variety, including +P is fine.
 
Probably. Maybe. Maybe not. It's a crap shoot. Why do you think they designed the "L" frame?

I'd be willing to bet if you do a search there are at least 200 pages in the last 10 years devoted to this subject.

General concesus. The "K" frame 357s were designed as carry guns for LEO as a primary gun. Carried a lot, shot infrequently. The "N" frame already existed and will handle any 357 anybody ought to load.

There absolutely were problems that developed in the mid 70s with the advent of SuperVel and other high pressure 357s shooting light for caliber, 110s and 125s at high pressure. There certainly were 19s that suffered from this.

It's your gun. Do what you want. If you actually manage to crack the forcing cone on your19-3 where are you going to get a replacement. It was less than 2 weeks ago another member was looking frantically for a barrel for a 4" Model 19-3 without much luck.

There are many of us with older 19s all the way back to Combat Magnums that have fired tens of thousands of rounds through them with no problem. On the other hand most of us CHOOSE to not shoot a steady diet of fast, light, high pressure ammo through 19s.

Open your 19. Look at the end of the barrel inside the fraame. See that thin area at 6 o'clock where they had to thin the barrel/forcing cone to fit the frame/crane. That's where your 19 is going to crack "if" it does.

If you are going to shoot a steady diet of the hottest 357s you can find I'd get a "L" frame or a "N" frame.

Dead Pony

RWT

RWT
 
I view my beloved 66 no-dash (which is, after all, a stainless 19) as essentially irreplaceable and I treat it that way. 99% of what goes through that gun is .38 special and, if I shoot .357 with it, I shoot nothing less than 158 gr. I also have a 686 and if I'm in the mood to fire off some hot stuff that's my go to gun for that.
 
I was at a buddy's gun parts store. He got in a bunch of Police trade in 19's. Two of them had cracked forcing cones. No idea on the history of the guns. That was the first time I had ever actually seen a cracked forcing cone on a K frame .357. So, I believe it can happen. I also tend to agree that it most likely involves alot of high pressure lighter (125 GR or so) bullets.

I carry a 3" 65 alot as an off duty gun. I try and stay with the 158 GR .357 loads most of the time, but, if I happen to find a box of the 125 laying around, I won't hesitate to shoot it or carry it.

Just be kinda realistic. Just because your car CAN do 120 MPH, you don't NEED to drive it that fast all the time, it just may shorten its life too.
 
From my files:

The 125 grain bullets driven to maximum velocities used large charges of relatively slow-burning powders. Handloaders know the powder types as WW296 and H-110, among others. The combination of slow ball-type powders and the short bearing surface of the 125 bullets allows prolonged gas cutting of the forcing cone and top strap area, accelerating erosion and wear.

Borescope studies of rifle, machine gun, and auto cannon chamber throats shows a lizzard-skin-like texture due to this gas cutting damage, called "brinelling". The results of brinelling are fine microcracks that weaken the surface of the steel, and further promote erosion. In machine guns and auto cannons, barrel life is measured in terms of "useable accuracy", and round counts that determine this are based on group sizes at engagement ranges.

In the K-frame magnums, the forcing cone dimensions combined with the barrel shank dimensions results in a relatively thin shank at the 6 o'clock position, where a machine cut is made to clear the crane. This is usually where the forcing cone cracks. The L and N frames use much beefier barrel shanks and do not have this cut. S&W intended the K frame magnums to be "carried much and fired seldom" service arms, designed to fire .38 Specials indefinitely, with light to moderate use of .357 Magnums. You notice that S&W has discontinued production of K frame .357 magnums, no doubt due to product liability issues and a couple generations of K frame magnum experience.
 
Thing of it is...the only thing that the average gun store (Academy, Walmart, Pete's Pistols, Guthrie's Guns, etc.) is going to sell are 125 gr .357 Magnums for target or defense.

Three or four years ago, I had the opportunity at a gunshow to buy on the same table, a 4 inch Highway Patrolman, a 6 inch Highway Patrolman or a 4 inch M-19 all for the same price of $350. Threads like his make me glad I went with the 6 inch Highway Patrolman. The way the .357 was meant to be
 
Thanks for the info guys. This was actually my first hand gun and I really have gotten attached to it without really knowing that much about the M19's. With the little knowledge that I have, I believe Im gonna stick with the 38 specials and enjoy it with no worry.
 
This is one of those discussions similar to the one entitled "which is better, a 9mm or 45 ACP".

Some will say, carry 357s, and shoot 38s. Some will give the argument that 158 grainers are better because they're less prone to crack the barrel than the 125 grain rounds (which I'm more apt to buy into since back when this bad boy was released, if I'm not too far off, the 158 gr lead 357 magnum was sort of THE round out there). I'm personally of the opinion of "shoot what you like and just enjoy the gun for what it is".

Personally I shoot 38s more than I do 357s, but I dont feel apprehension with shooting magnum loads. Unless it's a safe queen in pristine condition, then just shoot it how it was designed to be shot. If it breaks, it breaks, but from all I've read out there, folks have put a LOT, a WHOLE LOT of full house 357s through theirs and had no ill results. If anything, maybe just consider keeping the rounds heavy and not using the lighter 125s, which are supposed to be more prone to causing cracks.
Just my opinion......
 
Per Supica and S&W from the time it happened:

L Frame Background Information:

"The K frame .357 Magnum became immensely popular as police revolvers. However, some felt
that exstensive firing of full power .357 ammunition in the relatively lightly framed guns was wearing on both gun and shooter. There appeared to be a demand for a .357 handled like a K frame but offered the heft and durability of an N frame. The L frame was introduced as this compromise in size".......

The begining of the opening paragraph.

RWT
 
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