357PD came apart

mdme3006

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So I finally got to go out and shoot my new to me 357PD that I bought from another forum member and about 30 rounds in it blew apart. I was shooting reloads through it when it happened. 210 SWC with 19.5 Gr. H110 and WLP primmers. I am sending it back to Smith today to see if they will repair or replace it. Just wanted to share and see if there are others that have experienced the same problem.

357PD pic3.jpg

357PD pic 2.jpg

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Odd way to come apart. No squib followed by real round? Maybe fired out of lock up. Where is the primer strike on round that caused it to go kapowy? Only things I can think of that could cause this other than metal failure. To hot a load blows the cylinder up.

But, WOW


Agree. Seems that most of the hot loads blow the top strap and cylinder apart....
 
"I was shooting reloads through it when it happened. 210 SWC with 19.5 Gr. H110 and WLP"

Where did you find that load data? Is that lead? Pretty heavy bullet for 357 mag

SW is not going to replace it using "reloads"
The Model 57/357/657 family of revolvers are chambered for the 41 Magnum cartridge

That is a starting load for this weight projectile in this cartridge

While that revolver damage does not look like an overloaded cartridge issue, being a hand load does give Smith & Wesson the opportunity to VOID the warranty
 
Odd way to come apart. No squib followed by real round? Maybe fired out of lock up. Where is the primer strike on round that caused it to go kapowy? Only things I can think of that could cause this other than metal failure. To hot a load blows the cylinder up.

But, WOW

I sent the brass casings that were in it, back to Smith with the gun.
 
congratulation on escaping injury, I would think Smith should be providing you with both a new revolver and a letter of apology.
 
Bummer... I suspect S&W will take care of you.

I can see that the frame cracked at the bottom where the barrel threads in. That’s the thin spot and where that type of failure typically occurs. S&W blames it on over torquing at assembly, but I’m not so sure that's the cause. “Scandium” aluminum alloy is very hard and has different expansion and contraction rates compared to steel.

The same thing happened to my PC 625-10 while shooting and I’ve seen well over a dozen similar failures on alloy frame guns (two in person, the rest on the forum). Even new in box guns have been found cracked. I always open the cylinder and inspect that area when purchasing an alloy frame revolver.

I caught the crack on mine before the frame completely failed. I noticed difficulty opening the cylinder, made a quick inspection and was heartbroken. Chances of being injured from this type of failure are extremely slim. The bullet is trying to drive the barrel forward and in a worse case scenario, it does!

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I wouldn’t mention that you were shooting reloads when communicating with S&W.
 

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That is a starting load for this weight projectile in this cartridge

Actually, depending on the manual, it might be/is below the starting point for some 210gr Jacketed bullets. Cast bullets typically run a bit below jacketed bullets of the same weight. Cast bullets can also deform badly with excessive pressures.

It may have been a SEE, (secondary Explosion Effect). It's one of the down sides to H110/W296 when charges are reduced. I had a similar experience with cast bullets in a .357. Fortunately, the Ruger Blackhawk was not damaged, but I had to drive the empties out of the cylinder with a wooden dowel.
 
Bummer... I suspect S&W will take care of you.

I can see that the frame cracked at the bottom where the barrel threads in. That’s the thin spot and where that type of failure typically occurs. S&W blames it on over torquing at assembly, but I’m not so sure that's the cause. “Scandium” aluminum alloy is very hard and has different expansion and contraction rates compared to steel.

The same thing happened to my PC 625-10 while shooting and I’ve seen well over a dozen similar failures on alloy frame guns (two in person, the rest on the forum). Even new in box guns have been found cracked. I always open the cylinder and inspect that area when purchasing an alloy frame revolver.

I caught the crack on mine before the frame completely failed. I noticed difficulty opening the cylinder, made a quick inspection and was heartbroken. Chances of being injured from this type of failure are extremely slim. The bullet is trying to drive the barrel forward and in a worse case scenario, it does!

attachment.php


I wouldn’t mention that you were shooting reloads when communicating with S&W.

To Late, they asked what ammo I was shooting and I am not going to lie about it.
 
Actually, depending on the manual, it might be/is below the starting point for some 210gr Jacketed bullets. Cast bullets typically run a bit below jacketed bullets of the same weight. Cast bullets can also deform badly with excessive pressures.

It may have been a SEE, (secondary Explosion Effect). It's one of the down sides to H110/W296 when charges are reduced. I had a similar experience with cast bullets in a .357. Fortunately, the Ruger Blackhawk was not damaged, but I had to drive the empties out of the cylinder with a wooden dowel.

The brass came right out and showed no signs of over pressure or any problems for that matter. That's one of the reasons I sent it with the gun so Smith could see it.
 
To Late, they asked what ammo I was shooting and I am not going to lie about it.
I wasn’t suggesting that you lie.
With that type of failure, the ammo shouldn’t matter. An overload will bulge or take off the top of the cylinder, not crack the frame under the barrel. I dare say the factory is all too familiar with that type of failure.

FYI - Mine was a limited run PC gun and the factory didn’t have any replacement frames, so they offered me any in-stock Performance Center gun of my choice.
 
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As someone else already mentioned, the chamber, in this case, the cylinder is what holds the pressure, if it was an overpressure problem, the cylinder would have given way, not the frame. Manufacture defect for sure.

I hope S&W makes it right. I believe they will.

Rosewood
 
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There was probably a hidden internal defect in the metal of the frame in that area, making it weaker than normal. If that was the case, it has been found.

I can see that the frame cracked at the bottom where the barrel threads in. That’s the thin spot and where that type of failure typically occurs.

After seeing the crack in the frame under the forcing cone in the 3rd picture, my first thought was the dreaded "frame crack."
 
Its a .41 Magnum.


Yep my bad, I saw 457 and went with it.


I was half wrong,:D


It has to be the gun it could not be the reload. Even though it is pretty hard to blow up a gun with a slow powder like H110
But it is all speculation as to why. maybe SW will or will not replace it. They have done it before.
 
It may have been a SEE, (secondary Explosion Effect). It's one of the down sides to H110/W296 when charges are reduced. I had a similar experience with cast bullets in a .357. Fortunately, the Ruger Blackhawk was not damaged, but I had to drive the empties out of the cylinder with a wooden dowel.
Not a chance of this having been anything like that

That would have caused the cylinder and top-strap to come apart.
 
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