358156 bullet
- Thread starter Erv
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I've use this bullet mould for years. I lube every groove conventionally in a SAECO lubrisizer. I'm not sure of the term "short" loading, looks like it would be "long" loading, but I assume you're talking about leaving a groove exposed above the case neck? If that's what you mean, I wouldn't lube any groove that's exposed.
However, consider seating the bullet to the conventional length of about 1.46" for the .38 Special case. You can lube as few or as many grooves as there are without any worries over exposed lube above the case neck and you'll have adequate lube for the bullet. Lubing only one groove may work fine to prevent leading and provide good accuracy, but for this to happen you'll likely need perfect bullet fit and your alloy mix will have to be just right for the load (pressure/ velocity). If you're using an S&W or Colt revolver, a .357" diameter bullet will often work better than a .358", but you should try both, if possible, for best results. Good luck-
However, consider seating the bullet to the conventional length of about 1.46" for the .38 Special case. You can lube as few or as many grooves as there are without any worries over exposed lube above the case neck and you'll have adequate lube for the bullet. Lubing only one groove may work fine to prevent leading and provide good accuracy, but for this to happen you'll likely need perfect bullet fit and your alloy mix will have to be just right for the load (pressure/ velocity). If you're using an S&W or Colt revolver, a .357" diameter bullet will often work better than a .358", but you should try both, if possible, for best results. Good luck-
4barrel
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That boolit has 2 crimp grooves. My 358156 mold is a gas check boolit and you have to pan lube with alox if you aren't going to use a gas check. I install a gas check and lube at the same time in a Lyman 450 but not lube the crimp grooves. Only the lower groove needs lube. If you are using it for 38 loads you would be better off with a flat base or slight taper base bullet mold. I use mine for mag loads only.
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If you are using the gas check, it doesn't really matter, as the gas check will take care of any leading. That said, I lube all the grooves anyway. As stated in the previous post, using gas checks for 38 spl, or reduced .357 loads is a waste of money. This bullet can be used with or without the gas check. I reserve the gas checks for full power .357 mag loadings.
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The best .38 Special bullet I've found is made with the Hensley & Gibbs #51 mould. This is actually the original .357 Magnum bullet and it works great in that cartridge, too. It's a flat base/plain base SWC design and weighs about 160 grains cast of wheelweight alloy.
However, the #358156 is another very good one and a very close second to the #51. Load data is pretty much interchangeable between the two with the possible exception of maximum loads. It seems like the #358156 should be at it's best with a gas check affixed, but my results have been inconclusive. Maybe with heavy loads, the gas check would show an advantage. I've found the #358156 and the #51 to be slightly better from an accuracy perspective than the more popular #358429 or the the hollow point version, #358439.
Regardless, if I had the #358156 mould and no other, I wouldn't bother looking for another .38 Special or .357 Magnum mould. You won't outgrow it.
However, the #358156 is another very good one and a very close second to the #51. Load data is pretty much interchangeable between the two with the possible exception of maximum loads. It seems like the #358156 should be at it's best with a gas check affixed, but my results have been inconclusive. Maybe with heavy loads, the gas check would show an advantage. I've found the #358156 and the #51 to be slightly better from an accuracy perspective than the more popular #358429 or the the hollow point version, #358439.
Regardless, if I had the #358156 mould and no other, I wouldn't bother looking for another .38 Special or .357 Magnum mould. You won't outgrow it.
