38/44 Transitional Outdoorsman

[trouthunterdj]

Hello all,

First, of all I would like to thank all the members here for helping a S&W rookie with all the information and help lately. i really don't know anyone in my area who has Smith's so this is one of my outlets.

I found a 38/44 a few weeks back and found out after the purchase that is was a Transitional Model. The gun is in great shape and seems to be very tight. I have noticed that the cylinder latch almost seems "sticky". Is this a good thing and mean it wasn't shot much? There is no muzzle wear and only a slight drag mark.

The gun has matching grips and serial number 71xxx.

I am very excited about this gun and look forward to shooting it on occasion.


ddj

Please excuse the low grade photography.

 

[DCWilson]

Handsome revolver! Congratulations.

Several things could cause a sticky cylinder latch. You can isolate the problem by opening the cylinder and seeing if the thumbpiece moves back and forth easily. If so, the problem is in the front latch or cylinder assembly. The front latch is rarely a problem, so you are probably looking at a sticky center pin.

With the cylinder open, push on the back of the center pin. If you feel draggy resistance all through the act of depressing it, you probably have congealed oil around the center pin. If there is resistance, then a quick release and easy forward movement under pressure, you have debris or a slightly rough center pin to deal with. You could try flooding the center pin and yoke shaft with Breakfree or Kroil or some other penetrating lubricant. If that doesn't do it, you should probably take the cylinder and crane off the fun, disassemble the cylinder assembly and give everything a good toothbrush and rag cleaning. Be careful removing the ejector rod. It is still a right hand thread at this time and therefore loosens with a counterclockwise motion as you look at it from the front, but the rod is easily crushed or marred. Use a piece of old leather to pad your pliers if you don't have a rubber-jawed wrench.

 

[wbraswell]

If that's your first Smith, man, you know how to pick them. Very nice choice. You will now experience what we call N-frame lust.

 

[The Gila Bender]

Nice catch trouthunterdj (ha!). You have a fairly rare bird, one I'd like to have. Thanks for sharing, welcome to the Transitional Club, and get out and enjoy it!

 

[trouthunterdj]

Sorry, I added a couple more pictures. The N frame lust has hit. I bought at the same time a 1950 Target 44 special from the same collector. I will post pictures of that gun soon.

One question I do have, why are the Transitional Models more or less collectible, desirable or better shooters?

Thanks Again,

ddj

 

[DCWilson]

I don't think transitional models are better guns, but they are collectible because they are an identifiable variety with a short manufacturing window. For most models there just aren't very many of them, compared to their predecessors and successors.

Some, like the .38/44 OD you started this thread with, package different features in an interesting way. The transitional OD has a ribbed barrel and the larger postwar adjustable sights, which is a plus to my mind. But they also have the prewar long action, which just feels better to me than the short actions that came to N-frames in 1950 and to the K-frames by mid-1948. So to pick a specific model, I prefer the transitional OD to either of the other two varieties. But I like them all.

 

[trouthunterdj]

Thanks Guys,

Now the question is if I should shoot it or not. There is no blueing loss on the forcing cone and I'n not sure it has been shot much if at all. What is the concensus?


ddj

 

[Sebago Son]

Shoot it?

Daron,

The prevailing wisdom with collectible guns is that if they have not been fired then it is best from a value of investment stand point, to not do so.

However, if there is some evidence that the gun has been shot, there is no reason not to shoot it a little more providing you care for the gun properly during and after your range session.

Good luck,

Drew

 

[trouthunterdj]

Thanks again Drew,

What is the best ways to tell if a gun has been shot?


ddj

 

[Sebago Son]

Fired vs. Unfired.

Well Daron, I would say from the outset that unfired guns from this era are not common, so it is most likely that your guns have seen some use. In fact, the factory test fired these revolvers before shipment. So what we are looking for is a gun that is as close to unused as possible.

Swing out the cylinder and look for marks on the recoil shield around the firing pin port. A revolver that has been fired a good deal will see blue loss on this surface, sometimes to the extend of being able to discern the shape and size of the cartridge head in the blue.

Looking at your guns once again in detail I see that their condition is "excellent to very fine", but I'll bet that they would not be hurt by an infrequent trip to the range and the judicious use of appropriate ammunition. What hurts the finish of fine guns more than anything else is exposure to the elements, poorly fitting holster, incorrect cleaning, lack of preservation and handling abuse.

If you avoid these things, I can see no reason to not use them carefully and add to your enjoyment of owning them. Just be careful because you've got some very nice stuff there...

Drew

 

[trouthunterdj]

DCWilson - Using a bit of breakfree seems to have cleared up the sticky cylinder latch. I appreciate the help! This is the first time I've held a prewar gun and it's really amazing how smooth the prewar long action is. I really am impressed by the feel of the prewar guns.

I took a closer inspection of the gun last night and there are no marks on the cylinder shield that I can see. The forcing cone and cylinder have all the blueing. Not sure if this changes the perception if I should shoot it or not? I want to shoot it but I don't want a very collectible gun to become average (If that make sense) by shooting it occasionally and putting a make on the cylinder shield or taking blueing off the cylinder.

Thanks for all the help and opinions.

ddj

 

[DCWilson]

If you are an occasional shooter and clean your guns obsessively after every use, I'd say go ahead and take it to the range now and again.

If you are a more active shooter and want a heavy .38 to shoot hundreds of rounds a month, you could wear some value off of this one in not too much time. In that case you may want to store this one or look for one that shows more wear, because it would be a shooter grade gun.

This one and the .44 are both beauties. Congratulations on a fine pair.

 

[j38]

Great find! I have a transitional HD, but would LOVE to find an Outdoorsman to keep it company. Yours is a real gem.

Jerry

 

[Hammerdown]

I took a closer inspection of the gun last night and there are no marks on the cylinder shield that I can see. The forcing cone and cylinder have all the blueing. Not sure if this changes the perception if I should shoot it or not? I want to shoot it but I don't want a very collectible gun to become average (If that make sense) by shooting it occasionally and putting a make on the cylinder shield or taking blueing off the cylinder.

Thanks for all the help and opinions.

ddj

Hello trouthunterdj
Flip that revolver over with the cylinder Opened and look above the forcing cone area, on the top strap Portion directly above the forcing cone. A Fired gun will often show evidence of some degree of flame travel there. A slightly fired gun will still show some evidence of "lead and or Slight flame travel" there. Gun's of .38 Special caliber are harder to tell if they have been fired much compared to a Magnum caliber revolver, given the fact that they do not have the Higher Pressure involved from firing them that we often see left behind in a Magnum Caliber revolver. In any given caliber It is "Almost Impossible" to totally remove the lead and or Flame travel line left above the forcing cone area Due to the Very Narrow Tolerance seen there between the actual forcing cone itself and revolver's Top Strap.

 

[trouthunterdj]

Hammerdown - Thanks much. There is just a faint line on the top strap above the forcing cone. You really have to look to see it and looks like it a hairs width. Not sure I know how much it has been shot?

Thanks again,

ddj

 

[Hondo44]

ddj,

You've received some excellent info and advice already. One thing I might add is about the most obvious sign of wear, the cylinder line scribed by the bolt latch. Not just a sign of shooting but also of cycling. If you aren't already aware, there's two things that you can do to minimize further scribing:

1st, when you close the cylinder, grasp it around the bottom of the frame with thumb and forefinger of your left hand with each in the flutes opposite each other. Position them at 3:00 and 9:00 o'clock just as the cylinder locks into place. The bolt will lock into the bolt notch w/o having to rotate the cylinder. This will become a habit whenever you close a double action cylinder and you'll no longer have to think about doing it.

Secondly, inspect the surface of the bolt latch. It's very common in a near new or little used gun to still see the original file marks and sharp edges which work like a file against the cylinder finish. I like to very carefully and GENTLY smooth and polish the bolt surface to a mirror finish to prevent further cylinder line wear. It can be done in the gun by taping around it to protect all surrounding blued surfaces. It will not affect your cylinder timing; just don't go 'hog wild' on polishing it.

Now you can handle and shoot 'like new' revolvers like yours with a clear conscience that you won't cause any more perceivable wear!

One other thing: no matter how good the holster quality and fit, I will not holster a collectible handgun.