Prewar .38/44 Outdoorsman Push-Off

[afkirby]

Good Afternoon!

I just picked up this 1933 .38/44 Outdoorsman, I figured it would the closest I'll ever get to a prewar magnum. It seems to be in great shape, but when I got home I noticed that it doesn't take much force at all to push the hammer off in single action. While this gun probably won't be getting as much range time as the rest of my collection, I'd like to get it sorted. It also has a bit of a sticky trigger return sometimes.

I imagine someone may have gotten a little overzealous with a trigger job on it in the past. I'm comfortable with a taking the gun apart and putting it back together, replacing springs and whatnot, but I've never taken on something like this before.

I also included a picture of what looks like the hammer stud, is it common to be able to see it from this side of the frame like that? Too much polishing on a reblue job?

Thanks for any advice in advance!

Kirby

 

[HeloMt]

This probably should be in the smithing section of the forum... but here is what usually needs to be done. It's all about the geometry of the bevel on the single action hook of the the trigger. Never modify or stone the single action notch on the hammer. It is casehardened, and the hardened surface is critical for long life. Often, people dull the trigger hook to reduce trigger pull and end up with push-off as a result. To reduce push-off, the trigger bevel must be sharpened. I'm sure there are diagrams somewhere on this site to how to properly sharpen the bevel. Usually, 4 or 5 strokes of the correct stone at the correct angle solves the problem. I hope that helps a little bit.

 

[afkirby]

Thanks for the info, the little bit of research I had done seemed to be leaning in that direction.

 

[HeloMt]

Here is a copy of a diagram showing the process. The trigger and 6 inch stone are in contact with the bench top. Move the stone towards the trigger while the tail of the stone maintains contact with the bench. Start with the other end of the stone on the trigger. Move the stone about an inch to an inch and a half with a decent amount of down pressure. 4 or 5 good strokes are usually plenty. Pretty simple, I did it a bunch while I was an agency armorer. Good luck.

 

[HeloMt]

Nice looking Outdoorsman, by the way. I think they are an excellent buy as compared to what RM's are priced at now. I believe the the apex of S&W workmanship was achieved during the 30's...but that's just my opinion!

 

[handejector]

It also has a bit of a sticky trigger return sometimes.

That could indicate two things-
1- The action is gunky and needs a good cleaning before you do anything else. Clean it and try it first. You'd be surprised how thick and even hard 90 year old oil can get.
2- Someone did do an action job, including shortening the rebound spring. Try dropping a BB into the slide before the spring.

The trigger stud is often visible. I see no signs of a reblue.

 

[paplinker]

I hope you get it up and running.

It appears the front sight might be a King red bead?

Does the side the sight read King on it?

 

[afkirby]

I hope you get it up and running.

It appears the front sight might be a King red bead?

Does the side the sight read King on it?

Good eye, yes it is a King front sight. I'd love to get a super target one day.

 

[afkirby]

Well she's fixed! Took it completely part, stoned the trigger, and put in a new rebound spring, and now I can't get it to push off. Thanks for the help!

 

[paplinker]

Good eye, yes it is a King front sight. I'd love to get a super target one day.

I was watching one that was up for auction not long ago with that sight! I love King guns and really follow all the options that were offered back then closely. Wouldn't be surprised if the rear blade is also. Most king rear blades have a sharper outside edge and sit a hint taller.

The King super target is worth the hunt!