I am getting together componets to load 38s and have 250 loaded Fiocchis shipping to me. What my question is is how much does it matter or difference is there in various brands of brass? If I find a load that begins with Win. brass if I use another brand what kind of change will I need to make? I will begin with Win. Rem. and Fed. that I currently have. But I may buy some from a local recycler that I am told has a barrell full of ammo casings.
.38 brass differences
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I haven't noticed significant differences in brands of brass, but I don't load max loads, and low- to mid-power loads leave a lot of room for differences in brass. Most all of my brass is mixed range brass and with my mid-powered loads they shoot fine.
Cdog
Member
At the target velocity levels I shoot, not much unless you get some thicker milspec stuff.
I now shoot more .38 Special than any other revolver round and use a plethora of different brands a non loading friend gives me without issue.
I now shoot more .38 Special than any other revolver round and use a plethora of different brands a non loading friend gives me without issue.
ChuckS1
US Veteran
Just to echo what everyone else has said, doesn't make a difference.
Pigirondan
Member
I've worn brass out. But as its been pointed out, the .38 is a low pressure load. At most, my "hot" load is 5 grains of Unique.
Some try to keep their brass seperate by brands and how many times they have been fired,etc. etc..............
My big thing is getting them all the same length...........so the crimps will work out in my loads, no matter what type of brand it is, since I am not shooting for throphys.
My big thing is getting them all the same length...........so the crimps will work out in my loads, no matter what type of brand it is, since I am not shooting for throphys.
To me, brass is brass. Your new loaded brass coming to you is fine. Keep that separated if you buy some other mixed brass as you have no idea how many times it's been loaded. Really doesn't matter though. Use it until it splits.
Don't over flare your new brass and it will last you a long, long time. Depending on how much you shoot it may be the only 38 special you need.
Don't over flare your new brass and it will last you a long, long time. Depending on how much you shoot it may be the only 38 special you need.
+1;
"Over working" the brass by over belling the case to accept a bullet.....................
and MAXIMUM loads................ are the two things that will shorten the life of your bass ...........
faster than most anything else.
"Over working" the brass by over belling the case to accept a bullet.....................
and MAXIMUM loads................ are the two things that will shorten the life of your bass ...........
faster than most anything else.
gregintenn
Member
For thousand yard benchrest competition rifle cases, brand and lot # matters.
For plinking 38 Special rounds, I mix and match. I'll bet I have close to 20 different headstamped 38 brass, and with the exception of one brand, "AMERC", I've found very little difference.
For plinking 38 Special rounds, I mix and match. I'll bet I have close to 20 different headstamped 38 brass, and with the exception of one brand, "AMERC", I've found very little difference.
bluetopper
Member
I've found that a good percentage of Magtech or CBC 38 brass will not fit in my Lee shellholder. The rims are too large. No issues with any other brands.
PERAZZI
Member
mix anything but military brass...
military brass...
+1;
Due to brass spec's it is ok but you have to back off with the powder since it will give higher pressures than non-GI brass.
I have lots of 30-06 GI brass and a few 38 cases but I always use them for target loads, just to be on the safe side.
+1;
Due to brass spec's it is ok but you have to back off with the powder since it will give higher pressures than non-GI brass.
I have lots of 30-06 GI brass and a few 38 cases but I always use them for target loads, just to be on the safe side.
gregintenn
Member
I'm not disputing it exists because I have some, but when did the military use 38 Special?
venomballistics
Member
the difference is so minimal that most target loads won't mind mixed brass.
its when we get up there on the max loads and or premium bullets that you should probably use a specific brand and lot of brass of known history for the sake of consistency.
its when we get up there on the max loads and or premium bullets that you should probably use a specific brand and lot of brass of known history for the sake of consistency.
venomballistics
Member
USAF's standard issue sidearm until the M9 was adopted for use across all military branches
oberon
Member
I've been a reloadin' fool for nigh onto 40 years.
I sort my brass by headstamp. There is very little variation in case volume, but depending on what kind of load you are making, you may get variations in performance, and worse, pressure, that can conceivably ruin your afternoon. There is the issue of 'baloon' cases. I loaded a huge run of .45 acp in old (really old) WWII GI brass that was like no other brass I ever encountered before. It was a high copper alloy, bronze lookin' thing that was heavier (and more durable) than contemporary factory brass. The most notable feature was the substantial reduction in the volume of the case. Excellent brass, but need to be approached the same as if starting a new load. So I always look it over and sort it by headstamp. it ain't a problem to be heads up with your reloading.
I sort my brass by headstamp. There is very little variation in case volume, but depending on what kind of load you are making, you may get variations in performance, and worse, pressure, that can conceivably ruin your afternoon. There is the issue of 'baloon' cases. I loaded a huge run of .45 acp in old (really old) WWII GI brass that was like no other brass I ever encountered before. It was a high copper alloy, bronze lookin' thing that was heavier (and more durable) than contemporary factory brass. The most notable feature was the substantial reduction in the volume of the case. Excellent brass, but need to be approached the same as if starting a new load. So I always look it over and sort it by headstamp. it ain't a problem to be heads up with your reloading.
I loaded my first .38 Specials in '69, and still load some for my "pocket gun" practice and fun. For a new reloader, and a forgiving cartridge like the .38 Spec, there isn't enough difference in brands of brass to bother with. I sort most of my brass by headstamp, but it really isn't necessary and many time just load up a hundred or so "fun ammo" with mixed brass
.
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I formerly sorted .38 Special brass by case type and head stamp, however I quit after putting my sorted case handloads against unsorted. No visible difference whatsoever. As others have mentioned, military brass is much heavier and has tight primer pockets, so I do segregate what little of it I have.
troutman: The Fiocchi ammo you are getting is good stuff and I really like the brass. My second favorite brass next to Winchester.
troutman: The Fiocchi ammo you are getting is good stuff and I really like the brass. My second favorite brass next to Winchester.
rockyrider
Member
I have been reloading the same Remington brass for 20 years .as mentioned, only open the mouth of the case enough to put the bullet in .rarely will you get more than a few split cases per year per 1000 target loads .
ArchAngelCD
Moderator, SWCA Member, Absent Comrade
Handgun brass, especially low pressure large case rounds like the .38 Special are all pretty much the same. As long as you're not loading right up against the max pressure range most .38 Special brass is interchangeable.
Thanks!
This is my first venture into brass cartridge loading and wanted to be sure. Just recieved my Lee carbide dies for the Lee single stage press.
Have loaded many SG target and hunting loads off and on for 30 yrs. Those are a completly different beast even winthin the same brand. Straight wall, taper wall, plastic basewad, paper basewad and crimp. Love it though and would shoot more except for the price of lead
,
This is my first venture into brass cartridge loading and wanted to be sure. Just recieved my Lee carbide dies for the Lee single stage press.
Have loaded many SG target and hunting loads off and on for 30 yrs. Those are a completly different beast even winthin the same brand. Straight wall, taper wall, plastic basewad, paper basewad and crimp. Love it though and would shoot more except for the price of lead
,
The only reason I separate all my brass is so I can tell different loads by the case they should be in and that is only helpful if I get some with the same bullet mixed together and they are in different cases. I notate the case I used in my load data.
bamacisa
Member
I have a lot of 38 military brass. I reload it and it shoots fine. It is heavier and the case walls are thicker, but reloads and works fine. I load it for target practice and don't load it hot. Some people don't like military brass, some people prefer it. Military brass is usually sold for a lower price than commercial brass.
Not in a .38
General answer. The .38 because it started as a black powder cartridge is way over sized for most loads anyway. For casual shooting the brass makes little difference, but if being more serious about consistency and accuracy it gets more important. If it were something like a Hornet that was really sensitive to load differences, it would be a really big deal to have consistent brass to avoid ridiculous peaks of pressure. Some cartridges are forgiving (like the .38) to load for and others are definitely not.
General answer. The .38 because it started as a black powder cartridge is way over sized for most loads anyway. For casual shooting the brass makes little difference, but if being more serious about consistency and accuracy it gets more important. If it were something like a Hornet that was really sensitive to load differences, it would be a really big deal to have consistent brass to avoid ridiculous peaks of pressure. Some cartridges are forgiving (like the .38) to load for and others are definitely not.
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