I thought I got a great online deal on a .38 Regulation Police. After receiving it, I noticed some "issues" with it. I'm more of a K-frame guy, knowing my way around the inner-workings of them. I noticed this little I-frame's cylinder didn't always rotate, and the action was pretty tight. I disassembled it for a good cleaning.
This is a photo I took just after removing sideplate and before any further disassembly.
I cleaned it up good, and noticed some things didn't seem quite right. I've since learned that this is some kind of Asian or South-American copy of the real deal. That explains a lot. Still, I'd like to make it work a little better and at least fire it.
On disassembly, I noticed the hand does not have the usual (like K-frames) method of applying forward pressure to stay in contact with the cylinder. It has a round pin that simply slides into a hole in the trigger. There is no spring, like on K-frames, that applies forward pressure to the hand. You can see in these photos the hand installed into the trigger, and then flipped over showing you the backside.
Thinking I was just overlooking something and a cleaning would resolve it, I cleaned everything up, reassembled, and the issue has not been resolved. The hand will usually rotate the cylinder enough to lock for one trigger pull. After that, it might rotate, and might not. I have an investigative, tinkering mind, and as this revolver sits now I cannot see any method to ensure consistent contact between the hand and cylinder. I can hold it muzzle down and it will usually rotate. Hold it muzzle up, and no rotation. I'm thinking something has to be missing. I see the notch near the bottom of the hand, and think it has to be there for a reason.
I've looked online for a schematic, to see if something is missing, but I can't find a good one. I have another genuine I-frame, to compare it with. But, it's a Model of 1903 and has an entirely different style of hand.
I see that milled into the sideplate is a slot that the hand rides in. Is that supposed to guide the hand, keeping it forward? If so, it's not functioning as intended.
I now know that it's a reproduction and will never work as good as the real deal. However, I am also certain that it actually functioned at one time. So, my question to you experts is: Assuming this forgery is designed the same as a genuine Regulation Police, what puts pressure on the hand to ensure consistent contact with the cylinder ratchets on this model? Thanks ahead for any help.
This is a photo I took just after removing sideplate and before any further disassembly.
I cleaned it up good, and noticed some things didn't seem quite right. I've since learned that this is some kind of Asian or South-American copy of the real deal. That explains a lot. Still, I'd like to make it work a little better and at least fire it.On disassembly, I noticed the hand does not have the usual (like K-frames) method of applying forward pressure to stay in contact with the cylinder. It has a round pin that simply slides into a hole in the trigger. There is no spring, like on K-frames, that applies forward pressure to the hand. You can see in these photos the hand installed into the trigger, and then flipped over showing you the backside.
Thinking I was just overlooking something and a cleaning would resolve it, I cleaned everything up, reassembled, and the issue has not been resolved. The hand will usually rotate the cylinder enough to lock for one trigger pull. After that, it might rotate, and might not. I have an investigative, tinkering mind, and as this revolver sits now I cannot see any method to ensure consistent contact between the hand and cylinder. I can hold it muzzle down and it will usually rotate. Hold it muzzle up, and no rotation. I'm thinking something has to be missing. I see the notch near the bottom of the hand, and think it has to be there for a reason.I've looked online for a schematic, to see if something is missing, but I can't find a good one. I have another genuine I-frame, to compare it with. But, it's a Model of 1903 and has an entirely different style of hand.
I see that milled into the sideplate is a slot that the hand rides in. Is that supposed to guide the hand, keeping it forward? If so, it's not functioning as intended.
I now know that it's a reproduction and will never work as good as the real deal. However, I am also certain that it actually functioned at one time. So, my question to you experts is: Assuming this forgery is designed the same as a genuine Regulation Police, what puts pressure on the hand to ensure consistent contact with the cylinder ratchets on this model? Thanks ahead for any help.
