OK - here goes. I spent an afternoon at the range with my recent acquisition. I now own a .38 Single Action Third Model Target, or Model of 1891. I also picked up an unserialized 10" single shot barrel. The barrel is unused and never been shot.
I have always loved combination sets, but would not be able to afford one, so I built one. At the local antique store, I found an old silverware box and put together a combination set. I have read that the original combination cases used chamois, so I lined the case with chamois and sprayed it with silicone.
Once that was done, I fit the new single shot barrel to the .38 SA frame and was ready to get out and shoot.
I had to hurry, since we already have 8" of snow and the club is not plowed, so my days at the range are numbered.
I cast .38 - 125 grain RNFP bullets (they are .361"), backed that up with 2 grains of 700X and filled the case with Puflon and shot both barrels at 50 feet. The rounds are around 800fps and very consistent. I think the Puflon helped assure uniform ignition.
After sighting in the revolver, I shot 5 shot groups and found that my 5" barrel is much more accurate than my 10" barrel. That was an unpleasant suprise. I am no great target shooter, so I used sandbag rest and I think held on target for most shots. The spread of the 5 " was basically 2 1/2" with one flyer almost every time I shot. My 10" barrel was 5" to 8" and randomly placed around the center of the target.
So my question is probably obvious - why don't I get better results with the 10"barrel. I assumed it would be a tack driver, but found out it is more of a framing mallet!!
Any and all suggestions are welcome and, just maybe, I will soon be able to drive some tacks before the snow halts my trips to the range.
Attached are pictures of my S&W, my case project, and representative target results.
Gary
I have always loved combination sets, but would not be able to afford one, so I built one. At the local antique store, I found an old silverware box and put together a combination set. I have read that the original combination cases used chamois, so I lined the case with chamois and sprayed it with silicone.
Once that was done, I fit the new single shot barrel to the .38 SA frame and was ready to get out and shoot.
I had to hurry, since we already have 8" of snow and the club is not plowed, so my days at the range are numbered.
I cast .38 - 125 grain RNFP bullets (they are .361"), backed that up with 2 grains of 700X and filled the case with Puflon and shot both barrels at 50 feet. The rounds are around 800fps and very consistent. I think the Puflon helped assure uniform ignition.
After sighting in the revolver, I shot 5 shot groups and found that my 5" barrel is much more accurate than my 10" barrel. That was an unpleasant suprise. I am no great target shooter, so I used sandbag rest and I think held on target for most shots. The spread of the 5 " was basically 2 1/2" with one flyer almost every time I shot. My 10" barrel was 5" to 8" and randomly placed around the center of the target.
So my question is probably obvious - why don't I get better results with the 10"barrel. I assumed it would be a tack driver, but found out it is more of a framing mallet!!
Any and all suggestions are welcome and, just maybe, I will soon be able to drive some tacks before the snow halts my trips to the range.
Attached are pictures of my S&W, my case project, and representative target results.
Gary