38 S&W load devopment Pt. 1

walnutred

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I’m going to describe the load development project I’m currently working on the 38 S&W ctg. Some of you might find the process interesting; others will learn to skip right over future installments. However I think my methods are fairly solid and the procedures I use here would work for load development of other ctgs. First off, I like the older cartridges. Many years ago I outgrew the need to shoot the most powerful of anything. Now I enjoy shooting a wide variety of firearms just for the joy of the experience of firing that type of firearm and seeing what kind of performance it’s capable of. There have been a lot of firearms made in ctgs like 38 S&W, 32 S&W, 32 Long etc.

At this point I’m only testing a 124gn SCW bullet that I use for a lot of things. The nominal as cast diameter is .360 and I’m using them as cast lubed with Lee liquid alox. The loaded OAL for all of these ctgs will be 1.12” even though OAL for this ctg is typically listed at 1.24”. An OAL of 1.24” would have left the upper grease groove exposed on the bullet, which is not aesthetically pleasing. Pulling the 146gn bullet from an old Peters round that had misfired was useful. First, the powder looked like Bulleseye that been contaminated with oil. Second, comparing the two bullets showed that seating the SWC to the OAL I had selected would result in the same amount of bullet INSIDE the case as the heavier factory round. Personally I consider this headspace above the powder to be more critical than OAL when it comes to pressure. In addition, a factory 38 S&W lead bullet has a slight band that is outside the case, but steps down and tapers quickly to the bullet nose. With the 1.24” OAL and the lighter bullet, the driving band is the same distance past the case mouth as with the heavier bullet.

For some reason I do not have a set of 38 S&W dies in my accumulation but to someone who grew up reading George Nonte’s Home Guide to Cartridge Conversions this presented only a slight inconvenience. After trying a couple combinations this is one that worked for me: Sizing die and expansion die from a 9mm Makarov die set, seating and taper crimp die from a 38 Super dies set. Yes, I tried using just the 38 Super set, but the Mak set worked better for me.

The crimp die was adjusted using the time honored method on placing a factory caartridge in the shell holder and running the ram to the top of its stroke. Then slowly tightening the taper crimp die down until you have good contact, lower the ram, tighten the die another 1/8th of a turn and set the lock nut.

Oh yes, reloading equipment. Normally I reload on an old Dillon 450 with upgraded powder drop and priming. However I still like to do my load development using my Lyman turret and 55 powder drop. Primers are Wolf Small Pistol, Bullseye powder and mixed cases. I did check the cases and culled a couple balloon head cases, they were that mixed.

Loads for testing are Bullseye 2.0, 2.2, 2.4, 2.6, 2.8 and 3.0 grains. In addition I’ll try and test some modern factory ammo IF I can locate enough quantity. I do have some of the old military 380 2Z ammo I plan to test out of curiosity. Revolvers lined up for the velocity tests include barrel lengths of 2”, 3.5” and 5”. My best friends family and my family are going camping at a state park this weekend which has a pistol range. He is providing the Chrony and one of the pistols and we plan to do the velocity testing there. In a couple weeks we will go to a local range and test the point of impact shifts with the same pistols and loads.

Given the limited amount of pooled resources available to us, unlike some professional writers who I will not mention, we feel this will give a good overview of 38 S&W performance using one powder and bullet. Part of the purpose of this posting is that I know from reading posts on various boards there are many new reloaders on the shooting boards. What I’ve outlined is the thought process I use when developing loads and while I’m no expert I do still have all my fingers and both eyeballs.

One thing I forgot to mention is the powder charges I’ve mentioned are within the ranges of published data, though some of that data was published almost 70 years ago. Use your own best judgment and what works for me may not work for you. The two heavier loads listed may NOT be fired in top break revolvers during the testing. Depends on how it goes. Next week I should be able to list a table with the results of the 6 powder charges, one bullet and at least the military ball ammo, in three different barrel lengths.

I know some of you have more experience than me so I will not be offended if you poke holes in my thought processes.
 
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I'll be waiting for your report. I have played around with the 38 S&W, and using the 158 gr cast SWC, but sized .360. I had loaded 3.1 gr Winchester 231, and seated the bullet to the normal seating groove. I considered the interior capacity, and it looked very small. I did not load too many of these. When firing in a Pre Victory they did not feel overly hot (did not chrono them) but the cases needed a lot of help in extraction. I have hesitated reloading more trying to get better information. I do not cast bullets, so have to rely on what I can purchase, but do have a source of .360 158 gr. I used a moderate roll crimp.

My supply of 231 is nearly exhausted, and don't seem to be able to find any locally. I do have a pretty good supply of Scott Solo 1000, and Pearl Scott, as well as Unique, 700X, Win. Super Target, and several other on that burning range.
 
If BE and 231 were not available I'd probably try the Unique for 38 S&W load data. I'm using Bullseye because it's a contemporary powder for 38 S&W, I use it for 32 Long, 9x18, 9x19 and 38 Special on a regular basis, I have a couple 8 lb kegs of the stuff I bought last year. The mold I'm using is a homemade mold that looks a lot like the Lee 90316 mold.
 
Hey walnutred,--- and others.

I'm lovin your project, and can't wait for more installments.

I'm also doing some of this with my 32 and 38 S&W's, and thought I'd mention that HP-38 is also a powder that warrants investigation. It seems to meter even better than Bullseye with the miniscule charges we are talking about with some of these loads. (and I've always been a BIG Bullseye fan)

My latest experiment was with low power gallery rounds using .315 round balls in my 32 lemon squeezer. Accuracy is surprisingly good, and velocity must be pretty high compared to the heavier bullet weights. My POI was about 4" lower than the 77 gr. round nose bullet I have been using. (I've got no chrony---yet)

Jim
 
Walnutred; I have an old S&W top break I enjoy shooting. Third model D.A.I remember Elmer Keith shooting one & he said it was very accurate. I use an unsized 148 gr. Wadcutter with aloe lube. Mikes .360. Use 2.0 gr. Bullseye. Mild load but accurate with tiny sights & old eyes. A real pleasure to shoot this old S&W.
 
Red, your getting to the fun part now. I find once I get the load developed that I like, I kinda lose interest.

I was reading Phillip Sharpe's book and he listed the 146RN as the main bullet for the 38 S&W. I scouted around and found a mold for this bullet and casted a bunch, and sized them to .360. Found a set of Lyman dies for this caliber and went to town. Loaded several boxes and gave them to my wife, along with the RP from S&W. She just gave it back cuz I gave her the I frame 32 S&W long I got in a swap.

I think I might like to try W231 in this one, but it may be a little hot. Gotta read up on it.

Guess I am gonna have to start shooting this one again. I do like carrying this 38 S&W and it fits so well under my shirt.

Good luck
 
I confess that I also occasionally carry a 38 S&W revolver. The ammo I typically carry though is some FN 380 2Z ball ammo of which I bought a boat load of a few years ago. OK, maybe it was a few decades ago. I plan on testing the velocity of some of these while I'm at it. I also have some old stock factory and some new production factory I plan on testing this weekend. The old factory ammo literature list the 146 gn 38 S&W load at close to 750 fps and 173fp of energy. The new ammo is listed at 680 fps and 150 fps of energy. I'm curious to see if the old stuff is really faster. In my mind a 38 S&W lead bullet generating 173 fp of energy has the practice effectiveness of 380 ball ammo. If that proves true it's no wonder so many revolvers were made in 38 S&W pre WW2. Same logic behind all the 380 semi- autos being sold now.
 
I will be looking forward to your findings and reports. I load for my 33-1 and have been useing unique with .358 LSWC's. accuracy is ok but not great, need to find some proper size bullet's. The caution on the max loads is a good one, one from the speer number nine for the 125 Jhp was a bit too hot even for the solid J-frame 33-1. Sticking with the more sedate lead loads for now on!
 
This is great! I'm looking forward to additional installments. I load for the .38 S&W but haven't really approached it very "scientifically." I've only ever tried 158 grain SWCs and 200 grain round nose lead bullets, both loaded with Unique but was pleased with the results. I confess that I like the cartridge quite a lot.

Your use of the 124 grain lead SWC may also closely duplicate .38 Short Colt ballistics.
 
My supply of 231 is nearly exhausted, and don't seem to be able to find any locally. I do have a pretty good supply of Scott Solo 1000, and Pearl Scott, as well as Unique, 700X, Win. Super Target, and several other on that burning range.
If you can't find W231 and you can find HP-38 buy it because they are both the same exact powder. This has been verified by Hodgdon/ Winchester /IMR in writing. You can find 1lb, 4lb and 8lb jugs of W231 online as well as 1lb and 8lb jugs of HP-38. If you buy enough you can easily offset the Hazmat fee.

Powder Valley has 8lb jugs of HP-38 in stock for $105. ($13.12/lb) Even if that's all you bought the Hazmat fee would bring the price up to $ 127.50 for the 8 lb jug. ($15.93/lb) That's at least $10/lb less than the local stores right now.
 
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I'm in the process of getting a number of S&W Mods. 32-1, 33, and 33-1 for my family. My wife & daughters like the J-frame (the 33 will be I frame) and will appreciate the varying levels of recoil I plan to load for it. A couple of them comfortably shoot .38SPLs, but one doesn't and has been shooting .32 S&W Long. We're standardizing guns, but not necessarily ammo. I expect my personal 2" will sport my favorite bullet. . .200g.

I look forward to anything you can pass along to those of us just starting with this caliber.
 
I have been working with some .38 S&W brass to see if I can put together some kind of "9mm Rimmed" load for my 940. The OAL of the case is long enough that it allows headspacing on the case mouth with reliable ignition and the rim is used only for extraction. I am using 9mm dies and bullets.

Frankly I have a very small amount of brass on hand. I have a few pieces of late manufacture R-P and they are very high quality. I was given some very old Peters LRN factory loads and pulled the ones that misfired. They are balloon head cases and the decapping pin gets stuck in the undersized flash holes. What brass is everybody using? I see Starline offers new brass. Are the rims all of even width and thickness between the different manufacturers? Do any of the old cartridges have any collector value?

I started out with light charges of SR4756 and got a very light load, though it did burn kind of dirty. This could be a very good powder if you're looking to start very soft.

Dave Sinko
 
Hello

I have both recent Remington (R P Headstamp) and Starline .38 S&W cases. From what I can tell with my naked eye, they both seem to be the same width in regards to rim thickness.
Hope that helped a bit.
Thanks
Mark
 
Want to see data in Part 2

I am interested in seeing your results although I doubt I will ever use any kind of "fad" (smokeless) powder in my old break-tops. Certainly not in my Marlin tip-up!
 
Decided to be era appropriate with my 1889 .38 "lemon squeezer". 148 HB wadcutter over .5CC FFg black powder.

Now that's a fun load to shoot...

Only had the FFg available...
 
I am in the process of starting to load this caliber myself, and am faced with the problem of where to find the correct size bullets. .358 is about in glorious quantities, but finding a .360 is presenting a challenge. I have looked at bullet molds as Lee has some reasonably priced, but again even though it is listed as for use for a 38 S&W, from what I can make out of the product code it is nominaly sized to .358. So the question is what mold are you using or does a mold have enough positive slop to give you the extra couple of thousands to size it down to the correct size. I bought a Lyman casting starter kit when I got into reloading, I just have never cast any yet as using off the shelf bullets has worked fine for me.
The timing of this thread is great, I was just going to ask for assistance, when I stumbled across it. I have 2 revolvers that shoot this caliber, a Victory model and a Webly MKIV.

thanks,
 
Contact Stonewall Bullets in Stonewall Louisiana. He will lmake up .360 bullets for you and very inexpensively.

Stonewall Bullet Company
Robert Green - Owner
290 Russell Road
Stonewall, LA 71078
(318) 925-1836 - 1:00 to 6:00 pm CST
Yahoo!
 
Hello

I have both recent Remington (R P Headstamp) and Starline .38 S&W cases. From what I can tell with my naked eye, they both seem to be the same width in regards to rim thickness.
Hope that helped a bit.
Thanks
Mark

First off I need to apologize to everyone for letting my project languish. When we went to the range on Labor Day we had technical problems with the chrony. Since them I've been too busy with other things to get back to it, then Winter set in.

David, I used to own a Charter Arms Pit Bull in 9mm Federal. 9mm Federal was supposed to be a 9x19 +P+ Rimmed ctg. It was only made for one year largely, in my opinion, because the the 9mm Federals would chamber and fire in a 38 S&W revolver. You can imagine what would happen if someone fired a 9x19 +P+ in a loose topbreak designed for black powder.

Anyway, to load for it I used any MODERN 38 S&W case I happened to have available and used the published 9x19 +p load data for 9x19 cases. For your application I do not think I'd load to +P specs but any reliable 9x19 loads shoudl work fine for your application.

HOWEVER, I stopped loading 9mm Federal in 38 S&W when I started shooting revolvers chambered in 38 S&W again until I accumulated enough nickle Remington 38 S&W cases to only reload the 9mm Federal powder charges in those.
 
H. Richard,

Thanks for the infomation about Stonewall for the correct size bullet. Found them on the web, their prices and really good for all the calibers I shoot.

regards
 
Hello

As for finding bullet that are actually sized .360", check out Western Bullet Company. They sell a .360" 160 grain Flat Nose bullet (look for the bullet numbered/named "H&G #512"). I have bought and loaded some, but living here in the lower 48, finding a place to go shooting and not have to pay is not easy, needless to say I have not fired any yet.

I think that Western Bullet Company is also thinking of selling the correct .360" 200 grain lead bullet, so those of us with S&W British Service Revolvers, Webley & Scott Mk. IV and Enfield No.2 Mk.I Revolvers, etc, can reload a close duplicate of the original .380" Mk.I Revolver Cartridge, aka. .380"/200, or as some people say, the .38"/200.

I'd love to find a source for a 178 grain (or close) bullet in the correct .360", so I could reload a close duplicate of the .380" Mk.II* Revolver Cartridge.
Thanks
Mark
 
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