38 Special Load w/RNP Bullet Load Data Needed

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jmiles1960

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I'm somewhat of a newbie reloader and was unable to find data for a load I'm doing:

1. using bullet: Berry's RNP (round nose plated) 158 gr (1250 fps rated max)
2. using powder: W-231
3. Grains for load: ? - I'm target shooting w/S&W 586
4. OAL for cartridge?

Any help or recommends for this load would be appreciated. My books didn't list any round nose bullets. Guess I should have picked something else!

Thanks guys!
 
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jmiles1960 said:
I'm somewhat of a newbie reloader and was unable to find data for a load I'm doing:

1. using bullet: Berry's RNP (round nose plated) 158 gr (1250 fps rated max)
2. using powder: W-231
3. Grains for load: ? - I'm target shooting w/S&W 586
4. OAL for cartridge?

Any help or recommends for this load would be appreciated. My books didn't list any round nose bullets. Guess I should have picked something else!

Thanks guys!
Click to expand...

Try any Lyman, Speer, or Hornady manual. Use cast bullet data; start low and work up as with any load.
 
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The down and dirty way to attain cartridge length, is try to crimp into the cannelure. If there isn't any cannelure, use any loaded round that fits in your chamber and adjust the seating plug to that.

Length doesn't get critical until you are loading max loads. 38 Specials in a 586 won't get critical.

Ivan
 
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Your load manual-or data source- should list OAL. My Hornady manual suggests 1.455 in as about right.

The nose design of your bullet doesn't make much-if any- difference in powder charge. Pick something of the same weight. Just glancing at the book noted above, somewhere around 4.0-4.5 gr of 231 looks about right.
 
Lee pirates (or used to) their data from other sources. Hodgdon has plated data in their listings. Usually CP followed by nose design. CPRN/CPHP etc. Or follow the decades old hint of starting around the middle of the lead bullet data.
 
I used 3.8 WW231 under a Lee cast 146 SWC/HP, in my 6" Model 10-7, The best shooting I've ever done. That includes my 4" 28-3, 4" 64 no dash, 4" 686 no dash and a stack of snubbies!

Ivan
 
As a "newbie reloader" be aware that the bullet you have doesn't have a crimp groove. I would not try using a roll crimp on these slugs. They are designed with a taper crimp in mind.


As such, in a revolver, I'd choose another bullet design until you understand a little more about how powder burn and bullet hold effect ballistics/incomplete powder burn and cylinder lock-up (result of bullet jump or carbon residue).
 
I belonged to a couple of clubs when I first started reloading. The members were very generous with their advice.
I sought out a few who reloaded and seemed to be well organized and open to my questions. They took me under their wings and were extremely helpful with recommendations about equipment, manuals, supplies, and procedures. I was brought into their shops to see their set ups and procedures.
None of this is a substitute for researching valid reloading data. I did find it very helpful (and still do)to have a mentor or two.
Kevin G


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Would you recommend I buy separate crimp die for these .357 RNP Berry's bullets to do a taper crimp? Can I get by with the seat / crimp die in the Lee 3 die set? I should have paid attention with these bullets - no crimp groove. Unfortunately, I have 500 so they will last me awhile. Any advice is appreciated. I just plan to use for target shooting. I have loaded several hundreds 38 spl rounds but they all had the crimp groove.

Thanks!
 
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The plated berry 158's should work out ok with just target loads, whit a fac dup OAL setting.
If for some odd reason you do get some bullet jump in your 38 case, with these light loads,
you can seat that long bullet a little deeper into the case, for a little more tension/friction,
that shoould solve the problem.
Otherwise, you may need to buy bullets with a real "Can" for all your loading.

Good luck.
 
If you do not know about this site, give it a try. Hodgdon – Hodgdon Powder Company

As I tell most people who are getting started, they will NOT find data on EVERY bullet made. That is simply impossible. I am always hesitant to take internet or give internet formulas because of making a typo or the receiver misinterpreting the data or the bullet they have.

You mainly need to look for weight and bullet profile. Not all round nose bullets have the same profile just an FYI. If it is plated, as you have found on your bullets, 1,200 FPS is recommended so that gets you in the ballpark of what to look for and always start low and work up. For 38, I don't try to shoot near that velocity in target shooting and steel competition.

Get a good manual and compare data from various sources and you will extrapolate it all from there. Also, not having crimp groove is not the end of the world. I always roll crimp my 38, not taper. Be careful to not over crimp plated bullets, load a few and pull the bullets if you are not sure, you don't want to over crimp the plating. Its a fine line.
 
Reloading ammo can be a very rewarding hobby. It can possibly save you money, but more importantly it can enable you to custom make ammo that is better than factory, for a particular firearm.

That said, it can also be a dangerous thing if you don't know what you are doing. As others have said, a good manual is a NECESSITY. They will provide the load data that you asked for, plus they contain instructions. An alternate is to confer with a buddy, and hopefully he will give you good answers.

What you should NOT do is take internet answers as gospel. Maybe it is OK, maybe not. Personally, I will NOT provide load data online, because I don't know the condition of anyone's firearm, nor the due diligence in which they use my data.

That said, I have in the past used the very bullets that you asked about. They have been used up because I was not happy with the accuracy results. But that's another story.

Regardless, I have used those very bullets (without a crimping groove) and successfully loaded them without issue using the std. roll crimp bullet seating die. I don't see the need for an extra taper crimp die, although it would not hurt to use one. The bottom line is that whatever crimp you use, it must be done correctly, i.e, read the directions and look at photos of the proper results.
 
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jmiles1960 said:
Would you recommend I buy separate crimp die for these .357 RNP Berry's bullets to do a taper crimp? Can I get by with the seat / crimp die in the Lee 3 die set? I should have paid attention with these bullets - no crimp groove. Unfortunately, I have 500 so they will last me awhile. Any advice is appreciated. I just plan to use for target shooting. I have loaded several hundreds 38 spl rounds but they all had the crimp groove.

Thanks!
Click to expand...

From the Berry's website FAQs:
Taper or Roll Crimp?
You can use both the Taper and Roll Crimp on Berry’s Bullets.

We recommend a light crimp on the bullet, just enough to put pressure against the bullet without denting or deforming the plating. If you were to pull the bullet out of a case with the proper crimp you would find no more than a scratch on the surface of the plating. If you are denting or deforming the bullet, your accuracy will suffer and the bullet may start to tumble before it hits the target.

Also, the Lee Modern Reloading Manual has specific load data for plated bullets.

Good luck!
 
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