I was running some rounds through my Model 15 and 19 snub-noses last weekend. When I was just about done for the day when a gentleman and his son came up and asked if I shot 38 Specials and I said yes. He had just ran a new 100 pack box of Winchester 130 gr FMJ and replaced all the brass into the carriers. Naturally I said yes and thank him for the brass. After I got home, I dumped the shinny Winchester brass into the tumbler and turned it on. Today I started processing the brass by depriming and resizing. I started to prime and the primer would not go into the pocket of the first case. The next two primed fine and then the next two primed without any issues. I started looking at the brass closer and there is a small indentation around the primer pocket but not really centered. It looks kind of like the firing pin bushing was sticking out a little and caused the indentation. I have not run into this before. Should I scrap out the brass or get a primer pocket swager like used for military brass? Thanks!
38 Special Primer Pocket Issue
- Thread starter Bob L
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Yep they need to be swagged
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I was advised by Dillon about a year ago that a great many ammo makers are crimping primers on cartridges that historically never had crimps. They weren't aware why, but they furnish adapters for those calibers that need to be swaged now.
I kind of wonder if the revised non-toxic primers may have something to do with it.
I kind of wonder if the revised non-toxic primers may have something to do with it.
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gwpercle
Member
That little ring is a crimp. Usually only seen on cases loaded for the military...but it looks like that's changing. Why Winchester feels the need to crimp , I don't know.
I find the best method is to ream out the crimp and then use a primer pocket uniformer. Swaging is a hit or miss proposition...the hand reamer and pocket uniformer does the job completely .
Gary
I find the best method is to ream out the crimp and then use a primer pocket uniformer. Swaging is a hit or miss proposition...the hand reamer and pocket uniformer does the job completely .
Gary
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The RCBS primer pocket swager is inexpensive and works well. Adjustment is a trial and error process but doesn't take long to get it perfect. It needn't be reset unless you change primer sizes.
To each his own, Gary ! I used to use a Lyman Hand Reamer, but always thought it made my brass look like it came from the blacksmith, and had some troubles w/loosening primer pockets by over-reaming. When I started doing wildcats, I came into a mess of .30 M2 brass for nothing, and had much more reaming to do. I bought an RCBS Primer Pocket Swager Combo, decapped buckets and buckets of .30-06, .303, 8x57, 9mmP, and .223/5.56 with no issues. And the pockets look and feel like modern factory commercial. Yes, the reamer does quite an adequate job, but the swager is better, IMNSHO. Please do let us know how it goes.
Larry
Larry
DWalt
Member
I prefer to use the Lyman hand reamer to the swaging tool. It really doesn't take any longer to use and it seems to do a better job. I have both the reamers and an RCBS swage set, the latter sees little use. S&B .38 Special cases seem to have tighter pockets than any other brass brand, but a turn of the reamer solves that. Otherwise, S&B brass is excellent. Fortunately, cases need swaging or reaming only once.
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RGVshooter
Member
wow. that's the first time I've seen that on a 38 special. I've seen that on occasion with military 9mm, but never on Winchester or any 38/357 brass. Are you sure those were factory and not reloads by any chance?
The gentleman that gave them to me said that he had purchased them for the range outing with his son but doesn't reload for the 38 Special so he offered them to me. He had replaced the fired shells into the factory carrier and box so I have no reason to doubt what he said. They sure did not look like they had been reloaded. The fact that they were Winchester commercial brass had me wondering why I couldn't seat the primer. Here are a couple of pictures of the carton they came in.
Attachments
RGVshooter
Member
Only thing I can think of is if they're government overruns e.g. m41 ball repackaged by Winchester then that would explain the crimped primers.
Lee chamfer tool does primer pockets and ID / OD on case necks. It fits a Dremel 1/2" rubber mandrel to use with electric drill or drill press, but does ID debur only. Lee Chamfer Deburring Tool - MPN: 90109
Hornady tool fits drill press or drill for case neck ID or primer pockets. Hornady Deluxe 4-Blade Chamfer Deburring Tool - MPN: 050117
Hornady tool fits drill press or drill for case neck ID or primer pockets. Hornady Deluxe 4-Blade Chamfer Deburring Tool - MPN: 050117
MyDads38
Member
I just found this issue during a loading session with the same brass. I've had the RCBS Swaging Combo for several years, works every time 
It's gotten to the point I swage all my brass because there are so many
manufacturers who crimp primers today. I use the RCBS swager and it's
set up on a Junior press that is used just for that purpose.
I've never reamed primer pockets because they loosen up without any help.
manufacturers who crimp primers today. I use the RCBS swager and it's
set up on a Junior press that is used just for that purpose.
I've never reamed primer pockets because they loosen up without any help.
Since the Gun Depression.....
Since the Great Reloading Component Depression of 2013-2016 brass is a valuable commodity as well as other components. I'll try to save any brass before throwing it away, especially since it looks like this is becoming more common. I think I'd like to get a uniformer anyway. Range brass is so variable. When I'm priming one will fall in and the next won't go in for beans.
Since the Great Reloading Component Depression of 2013-2016 brass is a valuable commodity as well as other components. I'll try to save any brass before throwing it away, especially since it looks like this is becoming more common. I think I'd like to get a uniformer anyway. Range brass is so variable. When I'm priming one will fall in and the next won't go in for beans.
Or reamed. Looks like a crimped primer to me.
Here's my solution if you have a variable speed drill. You can buy these at Home Depot or Amazon. Ream the brass until that deformation disappears. On low speed it takes about a second in the primer pocket. Primers will still have plenty of contact surface in the pocket. I ream all of my .223/5.56 brass with one of these. Works like a champ.
[ame]https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NOAH2W2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1[/ame]
I gave up on the RCBS swagger. Sits idle now waiting for a new home.
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I've been told by someone who buys mountains of ammo (retailer). The price is going up......a lot....... real soon.
Don't throw that brass away.
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True. I ream mine because I've got a 5 gallon bucket of brass and the supply is endless.
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Here's a good exercise. Measure the depth of a primer pocket. Measure the length of the primer wall of the primer you're using. Generally the pocket is deeper than the length of a primer wall. If the primer is fully seated there's some of the primer pocket wall that won't contact the primer wall. I see this with .223/5.56.
Not all brass is like that but if it is there's no reason to worry about reaming some of the pocket wall out. It doesn't hold the primer anyway.
Not all brass is like that but if it is there's no reason to worry about reaming some of the pocket wall out. It doesn't hold the primer anyway.
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