leadhead2
Member
Can the diameter of a cast bullet cause the gun to shoot to the left? Firing .358 diameter bullets through .356 cylinder throats.
Thanks in advance for any info.
Thanks in advance for any info.
38 special shoots left.....
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Alk8944
US Veteran
First, if your gun is a S&W it is highly unlikely the throats are .356. To answer your question the short answer is NO, bullet size cannot cause a gun to shoot left or right.
I agree with reddog 81, cast bullets should be large enough that they will not fall through the throats. For revolvers they should be .001 to .002 larger than throat diameter. All the bullets I cast for .38/357 will be sized to .359".
There are several reasons the gun could be shooting away from the sights. It would help to know what gun you are shooting, but several of the reasons are:
1) If adjustable sights it simply needs an adjustment.
Fixed or adjustable:
2) It is possible the barrel is not square to the frame because the frame lunette isn't straight.
3) The barrel may not be properly indexed. It could be under-drawn (shoots left) or overdrawn (shoots right)
4)It could be how you are gripping the gun, or pulling the trigger.
5) The cylinder timing could be off. This is how accurately the charge holes align with the barrel bore, you have no way to check this.
Timing is different from what many "call" timing but is really correctly called "carry-up". Carry-up is how accurately the hand brings the cylinder so the stop notches are correctly aligned with the cylinder stop.
I agree with reddog 81, cast bullets should be large enough that they will not fall through the throats. For revolvers they should be .001 to .002 larger than throat diameter. All the bullets I cast for .38/357 will be sized to .359".
There are several reasons the gun could be shooting away from the sights. It would help to know what gun you are shooting, but several of the reasons are:
1) If adjustable sights it simply needs an adjustment.
Fixed or adjustable:
2) It is possible the barrel is not square to the frame because the frame lunette isn't straight.
3) The barrel may not be properly indexed. It could be under-drawn (shoots left) or overdrawn (shoots right)
4)It could be how you are gripping the gun, or pulling the trigger.
5) The cylinder timing could be off. This is how accurately the charge holes align with the barrel bore, you have no way to check this.
Timing is different from what many "call" timing but is really correctly called "carry-up". Carry-up is how accurately the hand brings the cylinder so the stop notches are correctly aligned with the cylinder stop.
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leadhead2
Member
The gun is a Taurus 856 and the timing looks very close.
The lockup is as good as my S&W 586, and just by looking
down the bore, every cylinder opening looks to be spot on.
It's a snubby so I don't expect target accuracy. I'm not new
to handgun shooting as I shot handgun silhouette for 22 years.
Thanks for all the info. I'll continue to look for the problem.
The lockup is as good as my S&W 586, and just by looking
down the bore, every cylinder opening looks to be spot on.
It's a snubby so I don't expect target accuracy. I'm not new
to handgun shooting as I shot handgun silhouette for 22 years.
Thanks for all the info. I'll continue to look for the problem.
SnidelyWhiplash
Member
All it takes is two lead babbitts to bring the barrel into line so it hits to point of aim.
"The gun is a Taurus 856 "
Ah,so.............
I see murky waters ahead.
Ah,so.............
I see murky waters ahead.
Obviously, your POA doesn't match up with your POI. Since it's a short barreled, fixed sight gun with non-adjustable sights, you need to re-align the barrel, send it back to the factory or buy a S&W....
I'd go with door number three...
I'd go with door number three...
Unless the barrel or front sight are canted to right, your shots to the left (presuming you are right handed) is more than likely related to technique.
There are two opposing muscle groups in your forearm: the extendors and the flexors. The latter group are used in gripping a pistol. This is the same muscle group that is used by the trigger finger to release the shot.
Quite often, there is an almost imperceptible sympathetic muscle contraction that can occur in the muscle group at large when you squeeze the trigger, shifting the shot to the left.
Lighting, such as a setting or rising sun outdoors, can also have an impact.
You didn't mention bore diameter. If your cylinder throats are tight (ie: .356") and your barrel is the standard .357/.358" diameter, you will always have trouble in general.
Fortunately, the fix is very easy: just have the throats lapped or reamed to bore diameter, or .001" over.
There are two opposing muscle groups in your forearm: the extendors and the flexors. The latter group are used in gripping a pistol. This is the same muscle group that is used by the trigger finger to release the shot.
Quite often, there is an almost imperceptible sympathetic muscle contraction that can occur in the muscle group at large when you squeeze the trigger, shifting the shot to the left.
Lighting, such as a setting or rising sun outdoors, can also have an impact.
You didn't mention bore diameter. If your cylinder throats are tight (ie: .356") and your barrel is the standard .357/.358" diameter, you will always have trouble in general.
Fortunately, the fix is very easy: just have the throats lapped or reamed to bore diameter, or .001" over.
ArchAngelCD
Moderator, SWCA Member, Absent Comrade
Before you do anything else try dry firing your revolver with snap caps. Since there is no recoil you will quickly see if your trigger pull is pulling the gun to the left. If you are more dry firing will aid in positive muscle memory to correct your trigger pull. That is exactly what I did when I first started shooting a snub nose revolver.
If you see no problem at least you eliminated one of the possibilities.
Good luck.
If you see no problem at least you eliminated one of the possibilities.
Good luck.
STORMINORMAN
Member
With fixed sights one could always just apply some "Kentucky Windage" and...
Aim to the Right!
Cheers!
P.S. Seriously, by securely placing the revolver in a stand or brace (Ransom Rest?) and shooting it at 7-10 yards a quick determination could be made whether (and to what degree) the fixed point of aim differs from the point of impact.
Aim to the Right!
Cheers!
P.S. Seriously, by securely placing the revolver in a stand or brace (Ransom Rest?) and shooting it at 7-10 yards a quick determination could be made whether (and to what degree) the fixed point of aim differs from the point of impact.
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socal s&w
Member
I think that it's a cocked primer....(JK!)....I just hadda do it!
Normally bullets much larger than cylinder throats (.003"+) just result in "lead spray" from the front of the cylinder. I doubt if that would be the cause for shift in windage. I size all my cast bullets to the same diameter as the cylinder throats (when I get a revolver new to me I slug the barrels and measure cylinder throats with plug/pin gauges or slugged).
None of my 4, Taurus revolvers have any more problems than my Ruger, S&W, or Dan Wesson revolvers.
None of my 4, Taurus revolvers have any more problems than my Ruger, S&W, or Dan Wesson revolvers.
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Miracle Man
US Veteran
I posted about my Sig P365 always shooting to the left a few weeks ago and several posters on here told me it was probably just me. And I'm pretty sure they were correct.
I went back out couple days later and made a very strong effort to not let my non trigger fingers squeeze gun to the left and, it worked!
I was using same ammo as before and was aiming pumpkin on a post/center bullseye as before and low and behold the groups to the left centered up - for the most part. Only had a few print left.
I've learned a lot from these old guys LOL on here. I'm not a spring chicken myself for the record.
I went back out couple days later and made a very strong effort to not let my non trigger fingers squeeze gun to the left and, it worked!
I was using same ammo as before and was aiming pumpkin on a post/center bullseye as before and low and behold the groups to the left centered up - for the most part. Only had a few print left.
I've learned a lot from these old guys LOL on here. I'm not a spring chicken myself for the record.
Seems all my fixed sight handguns shoot somewhere other than POA. Not much and most of the time not enough to worry about. I have several, these two get shot the most I think.
.38spl 15yds OH center hold
.45acp 18yds (our bowling pin shoot distance) point of aim is bottom of the diamond.
Hard part is to remember where they shoot with the load I use.
.38spl 15yds OH center hold
.45acp 18yds (our bowling pin shoot distance) point of aim is bottom of the diamond.
Hard part is to remember where they shoot with the load I use.
OP
leadhead2
Member
OK. I slugged the bore and it's .356 diameter. The cylinder
exits are a snug .357 diameter. So I believe I'll size my bullets
to .358 What say you?
Seems all my fixed sight handguns shoot somewhere other than POA. Not much and most of the time not enough to worry about. I have several, these two get shot the most I think.
.38spl 15yds OH center hold
.45acp 18yds (our bowling pin shoot distance) point of aim is bottom of the diamond.
Hard part is to remember where they shoot with the load I use.
It's true. They are rarely perfect but typically good enough.
ArchAngelCD
Moderator, SWCA Member, Absent Comrade
That's exactly why I suggested he dry fire with snap caps above. This way without the recoil he could see if he is pulling or pushing the gun when squeezing the trigger. Both methods will work, my way just costs less lol...
SGT ROCK 11B
Member
Its the shooter, shooting left.
gjgalligan
Member
KISS
Have you tried different sized bullets yet?
That is the first thing I would have tried before I ever asked that question.
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