3rd Gen Takedown Lever is Stuck

[Jonnyuma]

I picked up my 6904 today and brought it home for an inspection and thorough cleaning. I was immediately shut-down by a takedown lever that refuses to release itself from the frame.
I've gone as far as to block the slide appropriatly open so I could use both hands to try to drift it out w a brass punch and a small dead-blow hammer. I didn't beat the **** out of it, I only took it as far as I was comfortable with as far as force goes.
I've had tough ones before, but this is beyond tough, its immovable.
Is there something else I should try? It's 100% functional as a slide stop, not rusty or obviously corroded, bent, or comprised... just stuck.
I'm gonna soak it with some CLP, have a beer, shelter-in-place and wait for help.

BTW: I picked this one (off GunBroker) specifically because it was the only one under 3 bills that didn’t have the S&W equivalent of an "idiot scratch"... makeshift punch marks and messed-up finish around the slide stop's off side.

 

[pharmer]

If the recoil rod is sticking out a little from the muzzle, last reassembly was incorrect, that can cause this. Owner's manual addresses this, I don't have one handy (and it's 20 years since I alst read it). Joe

 

[K Frame Keith]

Damn, never had that problem with any of mine. Take a deep breath, relax, put down the hammer and think it through. No harm, no foul. Someone here will have a work around for you. Good luck.

 

[GaryS]

The only time I've had a problem with this, or with reassembly, was when the the slide wasn't in the correct position. I'd move the slide back and forth just a little to see if that relieves the pressure on the slide stop pin.

I've never had to do more than use a plastic tooth brush handle to push the pin out. It doesn't move up or down, like a M&P take down lever. The pin goes all the way through the frame and is pushed out for disassembly. You probably know that, but as you used the term "take down lever" I just want to be sure that you know it's not a lever, it's a pin.

 

[adwjc]

Jonny,

Grab your unloaded pistol in your right hand, place the bottom of the frame tang against your thumb, hold the slide with your fingers over the rear sight/ top of slide. Pull back about 3/8".

With your other hand, use your brush handle or the handle of a small screwdriver the push out the pin.

Like Gary said, you have to move the slide back and forth to relieve the pressure. Try the deep breath first, like Keith said.

We have all been there.

 

[18DAI]

With the slide back to the takedown position try rotating the guide rod half a turn. Then use a wooden block or plastic pen cap to push the slide lock lever out.

I had a recalcitrant slide lock lever on a 4513TSW refuse to come out once. Rotating the guide rod worked, for me. Turned out the tip of the guide rod was chewed up. I lightly smoothed it with some Emery paper.

Now it goes together and comes apart with no problems. Good luck! Hope this helps! Regards 18DAI

 

[Jonnyuma]

The guide rod protrudes fron the muzzle a little bit, but it doesn't appear to be excessive, less than 1/8" (I think I'm still too new to post pics yet). I've been working on it a little bit this morning, trying to rotate the guide rod as suggested.

I got in the habit of calling it a takedown "lever" recently because of the SiG and Springfield Armory pistolas I have around. This is more like a 1911 or USP... properly called a "pin".

The hammer is put away (it was just a little one). I'll keep working at it til I get it. I didnt get a manual with the gun and YouTube has been a bit of a bust.

Thanks for the help,
Jonny Y.

 

[jbtrucker]

I'm a lefty, checked chamber with magazine removed I hold the slide back at the slot and push pin through with thumbnail , plastic punch or other. I don't have any better advise than already given. hope you get it fixed.

 

[jsbethel]

Here is a manual - http://stevespages.com/pdf/s&w_centerfire_pistol.pdf

 

[Jonnyuma]

GOT IT!
Guide rod is in good shape, takedown pin is good, I have no idea what was causing the bind, but it's free now thanks to you guys and your suggestions... I'm not sure exactly which remedy was the cure because I was trying everything, but she's opened-up now and so far I like what I see.

Thanks again,
Jonny Y.

 

[armorer951]

Plunger in the end of the recoil spring guide may be damaged or sticking. Also, check the relieved area on the pin of the slide stop assembly for damage or burrs. A little bit of light grease in the detent cavity of the pin, like Tetra gun grease, or other light lubricant will make dissassembly easier.

 

[Jonnyuma]

Plunger in the end of the recoil spring guide may be damaged or sticking. Also, check the relieved area on the pin of the slide stop assembly for damage or burrs. A little bit of light grease in the detent cavity of the pin, like Tetra gun grease, or other light lubricant will make dissassembly easier.

I didn't see any burrs or chipping, it (the guide rod) looked pristine to me. But I put a little dab of B/C SNO Grease on it just to be safe.
Now I'm fighting with the same issue on my 4013...
Man oh man, I don't remember ever having this issue before... maybe I forgot or just blocked it from my memory...? It's not a total buzzkill, just a bump in the road (I take pride in my mixed metaphors).

 

[jbtrucker]

Maybe the ol' girls need a good workout and massage

 

[Fastbolt]

Look at the image below (which I captured off the web). See the raised lip on top of the front end of the slide stop lever assembly, which I've circled in yellow?



If your alignment of the slide and frame notches don't allow that raised edge on the top of the lever to clear the slide - at each end of the slide's notch cutout - you're essentially going to be trying to push steel through steel, and it's not going to "work". The pin isn't going to be able to move left because that raised lip isn't going to be able to move left past the inside of the slide. That raised lip has to clear both the front and rear edges of the slide's "notch", so it's in the open.

I align the rear points of the notches in the frame and slide, holding them relative and stationary to each other using a 1-handed grasp of both, and then push on the right end of the lever assembly's pin (where it protrudes from the right side of the frame).

As has already been mentioned, a burred spot on the guide rod's plunger tip, and/or a burred spot inside the pin's center beveled notch (in which the guide rod's plunger sits when the gun is assembled), may make initially pushing the pin across the plunger head feel more difficult. A little drop of lube or grease can help ease this friction point if there's some roughness in the machining of the pin's semicircular, beveled notch. (A little roughness in machining is normal, and I don't "polish" the notch smooth.) A "rolled" burred edge of the plunger head's tip can be lightly dressed, too. (I've only seen a very small handful of instances where the steel plunger was burred, myself.)

Every once in a great while I'll come across a gun which may require that I use the end of a plastic pen (or brush handle, etc) to use to push and "start" the pin moving, but usually I can push the end of the pin using a thumb nail.

Having watched a lot of guys & gals experience apparent difficulty and frustration when unsuccessfully trying to push out the slide stop lever (pin), I've found that it's usually because they've unknowingly let the slide/frame notch alignment slip when shifting their attention to pushing on the right end of the pin. (The slide and frame move, because they lost attention, and the notches go out of alignment enough to prevent the lever assembly from moving leftward. The top edge doesn't clear the inside of the slide.)

When I grasp the frame/slide in my hand, and carefully hold the notch alignment still, it often amazes them that simple thumbnail pressure usually gets the "stuck" pin to move. If you let the alignment shift that little bit which allows the slide to cover the raised edge on the top of the front of the lever, you're back to trying to shove steel through steel. Bring a lunch ... and be prepared to risk damaging the raised part of the lever (on top, above the pin) if you use a hammer or something else to really "pound" on the end of the pin.

Just some thoughts. FWIW, the newer MIM lever assemblies seem to have less machining marks left on them, in that pin notch, compared to a lot of the earlier production lever assemblies.

 

[stansdds]

I know my 6946 can be a real witch to field strip when it's dirty. When I bought it, I thought I'd never get the slide stop pin out. It seems that powder fouling really gums it up and makes life difficult. Even more difficult with this one since it is DAO, so no cocking the hammer to relieve some of the forward pressure on the slide when holding it in the takedown position. Honestly, it is my only gripe with this firearm.

 

[PJO1425]

I had the same problem with my 659, slide lock lever didn't want to come out. I now retract the slide to the proper position & push the slide lock lever out with the tip of a golf tee.