4" 686 no dash or -4?

DuneShoot

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I have the opportunity to buy a 4" 686 which I have been looking for for quite some time. He has a no dash and a -4 .

From my reading the -4 seems more desirable do to all the updates and no MIM.

Which would you choose and why?
 
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Take a look at the no dash and see if it has an M stamp by the model number. That would fix one of the major issues with the original design. If it doesn't S&W will still do the warranty work and put an M stamp on it. Many of the modifications are more for cost savings in production than for strength, others will be along shortly with more info.
 
I have the opportunity to buy a 4" 686 which I have been looking for for quite some time. He has a no dash and a -4 .

From my reading the -4 seems more desirable do to all the updates and no MIM.

Which would you choose and why?

I HAVE A SOFT SPOT FOR NO-DASHES, BUT I WOULD DEFINITELY JUMP ON THE -4.....

IT IS GENERALLY THOUGHT OF AS THE VERY BEST ITERATION OF THE M686. IT HAS ALL OF THE FEATURES THAT YOU NEED, AND NONE THAT YOU DON'T---ESP THE IL.....
 
I didn't send my 686 back. I am/I was afraid that S&W would mess with my tuned trigger and mods.

So what did they actually do, during the recall?

Taken from a prior thread and as reported by valkyriekl......

The recall/modification was to replace the firing pin bushing in the frame and the firing pin in the hammer to address an issue with some hot ammunition having thin primers which would flow back into the firing pin hole upon firing, binding the cylinder and making the gun unable to operate. This affected the 586 (-0 and -1) and the 686 (-0 and -1) and their fixed-sight variants (581, 681). Later engineering changes for those models (586-2 and on, 686-2 and on, etc.) had the modifications incorporated into the design.

According to Laytonj1 on another forum.....

According to the Standard Catalog of Smith & Wesson, the recall started in 1987. At that time the factory modded guns receiving the complete factory fix (new hammer nose, bushing and associated parts) became 686-2's.
All 686 no dashes (1980 to 1986) and 686-1's (1986 to 1987) were affected.
The new bushing and parts were only required if you had problems with the cylinder binding (primer flow-back into the firing pin opening).
It really depended on what brand/type ammo you used and not very many folks actually had the problem.
686's and 686-1's sent back to the factory for the new parts received the "M" stamped near the model number.

BTW.....I wouldn't call that a major issue. Because, I never had the problem happen to me. But, whatever.

Aloha, Mark
 
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Aside from some minor detail changes the two are identical, so I would opt for the one that you like better (less worn, trigger action, lockup, etc.). If he will let you test-fire both that may help also. Please post photos of the winner :).
 
I do not shoot magnum ammo in any of my .357s - I use my 629s for hunting so the 66s and 686s see target use only. Therefore, not having the "M" recall work performed is of no concern to me.

That said, given the same condition for both guns, I would take the no-dash gun for one reason - the -4 likely has a round butt and I'm one of those old fuddy-duddies who prefers square butt S&Ws so they can wear the beautiful S&W checkered target stocks that were original equipment on those guns (I have a small collection of very nice ones). Yes, "conversion" stocks are available but nothing looks or restores originality like those old S&W stocks.

I once traded a near-new 4" 686-4 for a 4" 686-3 just for that reason!

Ed
 
I bought my first no-dash 4in 686 back in August 1986. I bought my second no-dash 4in 686 recently.

I had my first 686 "M" in Jan 1987. I got my second no-dash 686 back from S&W just this week. I had the "M" modification and some action repair completed. NOTE: On my second no-dash 686, the "M" modification was completed, however there was no "M" stamped on the frame. And yes, I have before and after images of the firing pin bushing, plus they sent the old firing pin&bushing back to me. So now I have a no-dash 686 with the "M" modification that is NOT marked on the frame.

I don't plan on selling this second 686, so the above lack-of-stamp is not a problem for me. I plan on shooting the kay-rapp out of it.

This is because I plan on keeping my original no-dash 686 that is near perfect & with papers, box, LGS written and register receipts, unused Goncalo Alves grips that I kept in storage, etc., as perfect a I can. That could change, however, since I am reloading a lot I will use the second 686 for my /shooting testing platform. :D
 
686

I have owned 686's from no dash to -4. Presently own a no dash cs1, -1 snub nose and a -3. I do not like the -4 due to the hammer and trigger not being flash chromed. If you ever go to sell your 686, people prefer the no dash. A throwback to the K frames I am sure, but the buyers prefer the no dash.
 
For me, make mine a -4.

Of my 7 686's, 4 are -4's, and I will purchase most any -4 I find (as long as they pass my inspection).

But that's just me.
 
Thanks for the answers but they're all over the place!
I'm going to look at them soon, will just choose which ever one feels right.
 
I went with the -4. It was in better overall shape however the trigger is not as nice. That can be fixed.
The 686 stable grows!

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I went with the -4. It was in better overall shape however the trigger is not as nice. That can be fixed.
The 686 stable grows!

By and large I agree with you regarding "overall shape" to a certain extent, but not all. I will put my bought new in August 1986, 4in 686 No-dash up as an example. All is tight, release is buttery smooth, and I have ALL the extra stuff PLUS register receipts, etc.

Had the "M" modification, as well as a LGS trigger job, within months of purchasing. Unfortunately, I have only pushed roughly 2,500 rounds thru it (and that includes USNPS LEO academy) since 1986.

Good to extremely excellent 686s are out there, but NOT my virgin 686 No Dash... :D;):cool: Too many early memories. ;)

Bottom line, you got a GREAT deal. ENJOY! :D:D:D
 
Dash 4 without hesitation.

You can get conversion grips to make it a square frame grip if that's what you prefer on a 4" or longer tube.

I bought a 586 new in '84 that had the problem with hot 125g Federal ammo. Sent it in and got it back with the stamp.

Since I load my own and have stopped using 125g JHP or Federal primers, my current 586-1 without the stamp will not be going back to the mother ship.
 

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