4" model 28 balance

BigChief52

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I'd like some advice from more experienced shooters before I drop a bunch of money on a revolver. I'd like a gun that uses the same magnum ammo I like for my Marlin Lever carbine. I'm fine using 38s in my 19-3 but I just can't seem to shoot magnums well from this gun. Luckily, I had a chance to shoot a few good revolvers recently. My preference, by far, is a 4" 28-2 over a 6" 586 and a 6" Ruger GP 100. I have always heard you want the extra weight to be out at the end of the barrel to resist flip. Both the GP and 586 have fully under lugged barrels and medium frames with 6 shot cylinders. The 28 has a tapered barrel and most of it's weight in the frame and huge cylinder. I could swear that the 28 has a softer recoil than the 6" guns and the barrel doesn't seem to flip any more either. So my question is...do the old N frames handle recoil better than the modern full under lug medium frames or is this just in my mind because I'd much rather spend my money on a vintage Highway Patrolman?
 
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I bought my 28-2 4” new in 78 and still enjoy shooting it. Certainly forward weight helps decrease flip/recoil but the mass/weight of the gun and design of the grip frame as well as grips play a significant part too. A good example would be comparing a Ruger Blackhawk 4.6” with the 28. The Ruger is 42oz and the Smith is 41. The weight is almost the same but recoil and flip are totally different due to grip design.

A good example of mass would be a comparison of alloy vs steel frame 1911’s. I own both and with exactly the same loads the steel frame will have noticeably less recoil. Mass makes a huge difference as do grips and grip frame design.

It really comes down to what fits your hands the best and the one you like the best.
 
According to the internet, a 4" M28 weighs 41oz. A 6" 586 weighs 46oz, and a 4" 586 weighs 40oz. Obviously, the balance is going to shift towards the muzzle with the L frames.

For an outdoors gun, that I expected to be shooting primarily single action, I'd probably go with the N frame. I have a 3 1/2" M37, and it's a beautiful thing to shoot.

But, if things are likely to go double action, I shoot Ks and Ls better D/A, so I would go with a 4" 586. I have a 4" 586 round butt, and it's probably the best all-around shooting Smith I own. It would probably be my first pick for outdoor utility carry with heavy .357 loads.
 
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I've owned a couple/three Model 28's with 4" barrels over the years. I've got one now that's going to stay awhile. I don't think I've ever noticed the recoil with any kind of ammo. There is just a lot of gun there to soak up the recoil. Plus I've always used a nice hand filling grip like these.

Model28-2.jpg


Of course grips are very personal. You have to get one for your hand.
 
I'd like some advice from more experienced shooters before I drop a bunch of money on a revolver. I'd like a gun that uses the same magnum ammo I like for my Marlin Lever carbine. I'm fine using 38s in my 19-3 but I just can't seem to shoot magnums well from this gun. Luckily, I had a chance to shoot a few good revolvers recently. My preference, by far, is a 4" 28-2 over a 6" 586 and a 6" Ruger GP 100. I have always heard you want the extra weight to be out at the end of the barrel to resist flip. Both the GP and 586 have fully under lugged barrels and medium frames with 6 shot cylinders. The 28 has a tapered barrel and most of it's weight in the frame and huge cylinder. I could swear that the 28 has a softer recoil than the 6" guns and the barrel doesn't seem to flip any more either. So my question is...do the old N frames handle recoil better than the modern full under lug medium frames or is this just in my mind because I'd much rather spend my money on a vintage Highway Patrolman?
I had a 28-2 for several years. It is a heavy gun and the larger cylinder mass tends to make it harder to shoot double action. That being said the heavier the gun the less apparent recoil. Given the three choices, I'd go with the 586. That being said, all of this isn't going to make you a better shooter. Like they say, "It's the carpenter, not the hammer!"
 
That's true, but there's no question I shoot better with less recoil. I should have tried some double action shots. Didn't think of that. We were shooting steel targets around 30 yards away. I was surprised that the shorter barrel N frame seemed to have less recoil than the 6" guns. I was thinking that perhaps the longer barrels had more leverage on my wrist as the barrel came up. Or maybe the more rearward balance of the 28 was an advantage somehow.
 
I'm on my 2nd 28-2 , 4" barrel . I just really like them that's why I will always keep one around . As far as recoil , it soaks up recoil even with hot and heavy loads . The grips make a big difference . I personally like the magna's on mine the best and I've tried many . Regards Paul
 
For a lot of fast paced DA shooting I'll take the 4" 686/586 any day over the 4" 28/27 series. Simply due to the cylinder mass, the L frame will stay in time better over a lot of fast DA use. For slow, deliberate SA/DA use either will do fine.

K or K magnum guns are great with fast paced DA but will have time/other issues if run a lot with hotter ammo. L frame wins out here too if running .38+P or .357 loads.

Take the comments above from someone who has shot a lot of revolver in IPSC/USPSA/IDPA competition.
 
Install a target hammer on either the m28 or 586. Lowers trigger weight. Then try tweaking springs if desired.
My own revolvers tell me so!
 
It does not matter if the difference in recoil that you perceive is "just in my mind." Buy what feels best in your hand. It's even better when what feels best to you happens to be your collector interest.

With .357s as heavy as the three you're considering felt recoil wouldn't be my first consideration. I'm a DA shooter. To get an N frame's trigger centered in the first joint of my finger for leverage I have to rotate my grip around the handle a bit. That directs more of the recoil into the web of my thumb and shifts point of impact to the left. However, I can adjust windage and .357s don't recoil all that much so I shoot very well with 28s. L frames have a shorter trigger reach and GP-100s have an even shorter trigger reach. It wouldn't hurt to give all three a good work out DA before deciding.

By the way, not all 6" GP-100s have full lugs. In Ruger speak the lighter ones have half lugs. If one is available it's worth considering.

There is also the matter of the prices on the revolvers available to you. If any one of them is a great deal jump on it.
 
I use the Mel Gibson balance formula..
In the movie Payback he hands his 28 4 inch
w sq butt combats to the bad cop duo in their car. Driver cop hefts it around and tells Mel..
good Balance !! LOL..
 
For me, the fit and balance of the 686 4" is superior to the 4" Model 28. I've had both and shot them side by side. The 28 is a great gun, but I much prefer the 686.
 
As much as I would enjoy the challenge of learning to shoot full power magnums, as I crunch the numbers for the new components I would need, I'm having a serious case of sticker shock. Still going to shop for a vintage N frame. I just like em better. ( those tapered barrels are just plain sexy) Especially if I'm only plinking with 38s anyway.
 
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I have a 27 5" a 28 4" a 586 and a 686 both 4" in guns. The 586 is the smoothest of the bunch but I shoot the 27 better than the rest. All great guns but an N frame .357 magnum is top notch to shoot. The 586/686 might be a better choice if carried a lot due to decreased bulk and maybe weight
 
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