.44 barrel length ?
- Thread starter Luke Duke
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6" or 6 1/2". To me, recoil is much more noticeable with a 4" barrel as compared with a 6" or 6 1/2" when using full power loads. As for a carrying gun, the bulk of a 29 is in frame and cylinder, not barrel length as long as you keep the length in the 6" or so range. Velocity difference between a 4" barrel and one that's two or so inches longer is certainly measurable, but not that great. The alleged sight radius advantage of a longer barrel is quite insignificant unless you're shooting at longer handgun distances.
I'd sell or trade your gun and get what I wanted rather than reduce the value and desirability of an unmolested and original long-barreled revolver. I'm assuming this is an S&W 29. If it's something else, then it might be fine to have it cut down.
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Replacement barrels for most guns are available, so you could put the gun back to original specs. Either way the rear sight blade may have to be changed out. Agree that 6 - 6 1/2" is probably the best compromise length, depending on what revolver you have.
rjroberts
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A very useful website for such questions is ballisticsbytheinch.com . It's fairly intuitive but, select caliber, which takes you to a velocity chart, and at the upper left of the chart is "muzzle energy graph" which takes you to a good representation of the effect of length vs. energy. The numbers will be slightly lower in a revolver.
As others have mentioned, if you decide to do this, get a replacement barrel rather than cut. The best solution, in the absence of other considerations, is sell/trade for what you want.
I have a 629, 6 1/2" with powerport and find it comfortable. Also have a 69 2 3/4" which usually holds 44 special; the recoil is, shall we say "stout" with magnums. The main reason I got a shorty with Magnum capability is as backup, or if I was carrying it with my 44 carbine.
I will say I lust for a 629 3", but could not tell you why.
One last thing. Just to get the feel of different lengths - not weight, but visualizing length - put a piece of blue masking tape 4" back from your 10" and consider that you "new" revolver; then another 2" shorter. I did that with my 6 1/2" when thinking about a 4". Decided the difference wasn't worthwhile.
No its a Ruger Super Black Hawk, but it is a first run production from 1979. Just didn't want to bring up Ruger on a S&W sight. I've just found that threw the years, there's a lot of smart people on this sight, and I've come to value their opinions. The other reason for thinking about this is the barrel / cylinder gap is quit large at .010
With a first year gun like that, I'd be inclined to do a swap and keep the original in case I ever sold it it could be brought back to original, but that's just me.
+1 on the 4" having way more felt recoil. I think the mass of the barrel out at the end is particularly useful at minimizing barrel rise.
+1 on the 4" having way more felt recoil. I think the mass of the barrel out at the end is particularly useful at minimizing barrel rise.
Benchrest1
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I have a 686 that has a gap around .010" and it shoots fine. I won't mess with it until the groups start to open up.
If you are talking about a standard taper on the barrel I like 6 or 6 1/2 inches on a .44 mag for efficency of powder burn.
Before messing with it, what is it's value as a first run revolver? If you do decide to go with a shorter barrel, I'd recommend a barrel swap. That way, should you ever decide to part with it, it can be returned to its original configuration.
My rule of thumb is: Never waste money having a change made to a gun that you can buy already in a standard factory production model.
At best you can sell yours, buy or trade for what you want, and make a few bucks for that scarce long barrel model or break even. At worst you'd have to pay taxes and transfer fees but which are much less money than a barrel change or having a barrel cut.
At best you can sell yours, buy or trade for what you want, and make a few bucks for that scarce long barrel model or break even. At worst you'd have to pay taxes and transfer fees but which are much less money than a barrel change or having a barrel cut.
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If there is a premium value on the revolver you have because of the production date and it's configuration,,then I'd sell it and get that extra $$ money to buy what you want.
Paying someone to chop the bbl, re-set the front sight, alter the blade height, etc,, is not going to be less expensive than selling one and buying what you want.
..add in the bbl work to set the bbl back a thread or two and re-do the cylinder-bbl gap. PLUS, if you do that, the ejector rod housing will have to be taken down the same amt from the rear where it fits into the frame socket.,,,another 'smithing cost.
If you cut the bbl down on the one you have,,IIRC the ejector rod housing on the extreme length bbls is a bit longer than on the standard length SBH bbls offered.
Not by much, but they are longer so if you want to leave the ejector housing alone you may be somewhat limited as to how short you can cut the bbl back when compared to cutting down a standard bbl w/housing.
I'd either bbl swap & live with the CylGap as is or sell it and buy what you are looking for.
Gunsmith building what you want is an expensive way to the same end.
..unless you like to do the work youself..
Paying someone to chop the bbl, re-set the front sight, alter the blade height, etc,, is not going to be less expensive than selling one and buying what you want.
..add in the bbl work to set the bbl back a thread or two and re-do the cylinder-bbl gap. PLUS, if you do that, the ejector rod housing will have to be taken down the same amt from the rear where it fits into the frame socket.,,,another 'smithing cost.
If you cut the bbl down on the one you have,,IIRC the ejector rod housing on the extreme length bbls is a bit longer than on the standard length SBH bbls offered.
Not by much, but they are longer so if you want to leave the ejector housing alone you may be somewhat limited as to how short you can cut the bbl back when compared to cutting down a standard bbl w/housing.
I'd either bbl swap & live with the CylGap as is or sell it and buy what you are looking for.
Gunsmith building what you want is an expensive way to the same end.
..unless you like to do the work youself..
If efficiency is your only goal, probably 6-7" would be my guess.
That's for mainly a range or hunting gun. If might carry more than shoot, I'd go 4" (my all-around fave) to maybe 5". Just my WAG opinion but I agree with buying what youre thinking of instead of making it if at all possible.
That's for mainly a range or hunting gun. If might carry more than shoot, I'd go 4" (my all-around fave) to maybe 5". Just my WAG opinion but I agree with buying what youre thinking of instead of making it if at all possible.
You're correct. The 10" barrel ejector rod and housing is 5" long, 1" longer than the standard one at 4". However, if you have a barrel of 5" or longer, you'll enjoy (and I recommend) the extra 1" of travel for ejecting those long 44 Mag cases or 357 cases.
I've installed the 5" rod/housing on shorter than 10" barrels at owners request. It only takes one hole drilled and tapped for the retaining screw, to mount the 5" assembly and of course the original hole will be covered/hidden or can be plugged.
Obviously if you do cut down an existing 10" barrel you can just continue to use and benefit from the original 5" assembly.
My 2&3/4" model 69 is a real bear (brown even) with 44 mag loads. Don't go that short. My 4.25" model 69 is still a hand full and could use a full lug barrel to add a bit of weight. My 6.5" 629 seems about right. If it were me, and we all know that it's not, I'd sell the silhouette model and buy a 6.5" 629 for fun or a 5" one if I wanted to carry it.
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