.44 DA Model: Trigger & Hammer fit

[NewDeparture]

I´ve recently bought a 6in. 44 DA Model, low S/N (5xxx), nickel finish (or what´s left of it).

The revolver is a shooter in acceptable working condition, however I´ve found that hammer will drop on slightest pressure applied to it.

I´ve removed the sideplate, and although the sear seems to be OK, someone tampered with this hammer in the past since it has been blued and the firing pin is a replacement crudely done; so I would feel better if I just replace it.

I have a chance of buying a trigger and hammer set, both parts coming from the same gun (another .44 DA Model).

My question is: are these parts interchangeable among different revolvers or should I buy both the hammer and trigger in order to obtain a proper sear fit?

I don´t know if these parts were hand fitted to each particular gun. If so, I guess I need to buy both the hammer & trigger instead of replacing the defective hammer only.

Price is about 25 $ each, which is about what I paid for the gun

Not a problem in buying both though. Just trying to understand if that might be really necessary.

Thoughts?

Thanks,

NewDeparture.

 

[delta-419]

Hammer and Trigger

Its not necessary to change out both the hammer and trigger, however that being said, both being from the same gun have worn well together for 75+ years and might provide a smoother action. I would buy both, at $25 each, you will have a great bargin. I would buy both in a heartbeat. I have paid much more for the same parts and spares are always trade fodder !

 

[les.b]

I would buy both hammer and trigger. Install them, and see if they work together in your existing gun. If they don't, there are some existing threads or stickies here on the forum with directions on correcting various problems. Here is a link to one of these threads that I found useful just last week: http://smith-wessonforum.com/s-w-smithing/94072-faqs.html. I just finished a project gun which involved installing a new trigger, and you can follow that process at my thread. I had to sharpen the single action trigger edge to prevent the problem that it seems that you are encountering. Check it out, somewhere on the second page: http://smith-wessonforum.com/s-w-re...ast-almost-final-update-sept-10th-2016-a.html.

Best Regards, Les

 

[Alk8944]

For the best chance of the gun functioning correctly you need virtually everything from the donor gun. The last two posters obviously do not understand that the New Model #3 lockwork is entirely different than later hand ejectors. These guns are from the period of soft fitting where the internals were fit before heat treatment and then case hardened. The trigger is probably the least concern, but the separate double action sear, single action sear (a separate part) and hammer all have to work together properly.

In 1974 I took my New Model #3 Frontier to S&W for re-finishing. They did a very good job, even replaced a couple of small parts they still had. The problem is something changed with the double action sear and the gun hasn't functioned in double action since! It was fine when they got it!!! The hammer is released too early and the single action sear catches the hemmer. The fit of the double action sear and hammer is absolutely critical!

 

[les.b]

Sorry, my mistake, I thought he was posting about a second model 44 spl. hand ejector.

Best Regards, Les

 

[NewDeparture]

Thank you very much for your help,

I ended up buying both trigger and hammer. They will arrive in a couple days (hopefully).

I´m not planning to replace the trigger (just bought it in case I need it someday)
but i was a nice surprise to see that it comes with the cylinder stop still pinned to it.

I´ve asked the seller if he might have some other parts; he still has both the Double action sear plus hand, all coming from the same gun.

I´ll just try to fit the hammer and contact the seller again in case a I need a few additional parts.

Thank you all for your help,

NewDeparture

 

[NewDeparture]

A couple of pics after removing the side plate. In the second one the firing pin replacement can be seen.

The hammer has also been filed in its front portion and looks like it was blued after that.

I´ve removed a lot of dried grease after taking these pics, the bearing surface of the single action sear was pretty much covered with it.

I´m starting thinking that this dried grease might have been the cause for the hammer not engaging properly on the sear, but anyway,
I´ll replace it with the newer one.


NewDeparture
https://s17.postimg.org/tqj9iq8r3/44_DA_1.jpg
https://s14.postimg.org/txrttbqm9/44_DA_2.jpg

 

[mmaher94087]

NewDeparture, try the dried grease approach first. A good dose of aerosol carb cleaner or Gun Scrubber will flush out much of the crud. It may function with a thorough washing. If not, then try replacing the hammer first to see if everything functions with that fix. I think you are going to replace the hammer anyway so the above advise is for those with good hammers. If it still doesn't work, then continue with the trigger group. If, after the cleaning, the cylinder stop doesn't work but is present in the trigger group; it may be necessary to pull the trigger assembly in order to soak the cylinder stop plunger with penetrating oil. Apply heat from a hair dryer and the plunger "should" pop free and begin to work properly and then oil it.

Now for a shameless request: Does your 'parts-person' have a mainspring for the .44 Double Action? I need one and really don't want to have to make it. A PM would be fine. Thanks.

 

[NewDeparture]

Mike,

thanks a lot for your help.

PM Sent.

ND

 

[NewDeparture]

Both the hammer & trigger group arrived yesterday.

The new hammer fits OK and when pulled to single action the sear won´t let the hammer drop under finger pressure-like it used to happen with the original hammer.

Unfortunately, the stirrup on the new hammer had been changed for one crudely done.

I´ve realized this after a few minutes of trying to get the mainspring back into place without results ;

measuring both the original and the replacement stirrup, the later one is at least 1 /32 in longer than the original one.

It doesn´t catch up properly on the mainspring "hooks" and when force to do so, the mainspring won´t fit its housing at the bottom of the frame.

So now I have to replace the original stirrup in the newer hammer.

Or maybe I´ll remove the stirrup "ears" by grinding them and make newer ones to the right length. The stirrup is heavily pinned to the new hammer so I´ll prefer to modify it instead of taking it out.

Fixing this one will take more time than I´ve expected, granted