Hi all, I just shot my S&W .44 magnum revolver for the first time today. I was using Remington ammo. I fired all 6 rounds and the cylinder became jammed on the last round. I was unable to eject it, or cock the hammer back, or pull the trigger. It appears that the casing is pressed up against the rear of the gun, so I'm not sure if the firing pin is stuck in the casing, or if the ejector rod slipped back and is jamming the cylinder. Any ideas on how to get it out, and how to prevent this in the future? Thanks
44 magnum 629-6 Revolver jammed cylinder and hammer
- Thread starter saintpcr
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Double-O-Dave
US Veteran
Saintpcr:
From your description, I am assuming the hammer is resting on a fired cartridge - correct? If so, this makes things a bit easier. If not, I'd suggest taking it to a gunsmith. Assuming the hammer is resting on a fired cartridge, I'd suggest starting by removing the leaf spring screw on the frontstrap of the revolver. This should take the tension off of the hammer and allow you to gently cock the hammer and free up the action. If this doesn't work, then try to see if the ejector rod is loose. Use your fingertip, or a piece of leather and try and turn the ejector rod. It shouldn't turn. If it does, simply screw it in tighter (by hand), and you should be able to open the cylinder.
Best of luck,
Dave
From your description, I am assuming the hammer is resting on a fired cartridge - correct? If so, this makes things a bit easier. If not, I'd suggest taking it to a gunsmith. Assuming the hammer is resting on a fired cartridge, I'd suggest starting by removing the leaf spring screw on the frontstrap of the revolver. This should take the tension off of the hammer and allow you to gently cock the hammer and free up the action. If this doesn't work, then try to see if the ejector rod is loose. Use your fingertip, or a piece of leather and try and turn the ejector rod. It shouldn't turn. If it does, simply screw it in tighter (by hand), and you should be able to open the cylinder.
Best of luck,
Dave
Check to see if the flag is up on the lock. If the extractor has become loose, you can slip a business card under the cylinder and unlock the cylinder stop and the turn the cylinder freely. If the cylinder will not turn, it is probably not the extractor. If the cylinder turns freely, hold the extractor in place and turn the cylinder until it screws in far enough to unlock. It has left hand threads so turning counterclockwise tightens. If you find the problem, please let us know.
It sounds like an all to familiar problem I had with my -6. This was discussed in a previous thread so won't bore you with details. The firing pin pierced the primers of the ammo I was shooting until it got stuck in one. I was eventually able to dislodge it, open the cylinder and remove the 3 spent rounds and the 3 live ones so I could send it back to S&W. I sent the 3 spent rounds in with it and when it came back they said they'd replaced the firing pin and the bushing. Never said it was caused by the revolver or the ammo but I was shooting something other than what you are. Let us know what you find out.
P.S. My serial number is CPF77XX, is yours close?
P.S. My serial number is CPF77XX, is yours close?
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northslope
Member
I had a 629-6 a while back that did exactly the same thing, but in my case it was the forcing cone shaving off a chunk of the copper jacket and wedging it in-between the cylinder face and the forcing cone surface. It would freeze the action up completely (cylinder wouldn't turn, so nothing else moved either!). Once I realized the problem a gentle rap with a nylon hammer on the side of the cylinder would open it....just long enough for me to take pictures of it and box the sucker up for a trip back to the factory (took 'em two tries to get it fixed).
--Neill
--Neill
Fortunately, it is resting on an empty round. I will try these suggestions and see if I have any luck. What is S&W's warranty policy? I bought this gun used off of gunbroker.com. I believe it's a 2004 model, but I can't tell you the serial number with the cylinder locked up...
I tried this method and the cylinder does not turn. The ejector rod seems tight as I cannot turn it by hand. The round is on the back of the gun, which makes sense with it having ignited. Is it possible the firing pin is stuck out in the casing, preventing it from turning?
Just tried the hammer method and was able to get the cylinder open. One primer does appear black, as if it exploded back into the firing pin. How is this issue corrected? Lubrication? Or should I send it to S&W or a gunsmith for more work?
scooter123
Member
I'm going to go out on a limb a bit and assume that the 629-6 has a frame mounted firing pin. If that is the case it's possible that the previous owner has replaced the firing pin with a longer firing pin from the aftermarket. It's also possible that the gun saw enough use than the bushing has become a bit fouled and it stuck forward because of the fouling. Finally, it's also possible that the gun was dry fired a lot and the firing pin return spring has been weakened or wadded up. Since you've described a darkened primer the most likely scenerio is that you have an aftermarket firing pin installed in your 629-6.
First a note on stuck firing pins. Personally, I consider using a hammer an extreme solution. I've had a firing pin stick once in my 610-3 and found that simply rocking the cylinder back and forth allowed it to pop free of the primer. However, in my case the primer had not been pierced, the dimple was deep enough to "capture" the tip of the firing pin. BTW, I was shooting in single action when this happened. Since you did have to use a hammer I'd strongly recomend replacing it because may have been bent. If you just want your 629 fixed and don't want to take it on yourself call the factory customer service and have it done under warranty. If your curious as to why it happened, read on. Also note you'll want some properly "fitted" gunsmithing screwdrivers so you don't bugger up the screws.
I would also urge the purchase of the Kuhnhausen S&W shop manual as a basic guide to working on these revolvers however it is a bit out of date in regards to the more recent revolvers with frame mounted firing pins, so don't take it as pure gospel. Of particular note I would NEVER EVER stone a trigger to tune for a lighter SA trigger pull, today simply changing the rebound spring for a lighter one will achieve the same goal and won't lead to future issues with pushoff.
It is NOT at all difficult to change out your firing pin PROVIDED you know how to properly remove the sideplate. That is done by removing the grips, removing all of the sideplate screws, and then TAPPING the sideplate free by striking the grip frame with a plastic or wood object across the side of the grip frame. Personally I use the plastic handle on a screwdriver. Lay the gun on it's side in your lap and rap the grip frame repeatedly below the sideplate and the vibrations will cause it to rise up out of it's nest. Once it's popped free you can then set it aside.
You'll then see that the Hammer Block has also come free and that particular part can be a bit of a challenge to get fitted correctly the first time you open up the lockwork on one of these revolvers. At one end you'll find a triangular shaped end with a slot in it. This slot is engaged by the pin that is mouned on the side of the Rebound slide. When you replace the hammer block you need to place it in the UP position so that the blocking tab is between the hammer face and the frame and tip the revolver slighly so that it stays in that position while you replace the sideplate. BTW, note that the sideplate has a small tab at the top that fits under the frame cutout for the sideplate at the top. Normally when I re-mount a sideplate I start with that tab at the top and then the front extension by the Yoke retaining screw. Then I use a firm press with my thumb to push the sideplate in place. If you can't press it down with thumb pressure it means the Hammer Block is out of position and you have to start over. BTW, the first time I had to re-fit a sideplate it took me 45 minutes to figure out the positioning for the hammer block and the orientation to hold the revolver so it wouldn't shift when getting the sideplate in place, now it takes a few seconds. Basically, plan on a bit of frustration the very first time.
Now that that has been covered, removing the firing pin is dead easy. Up at the top of the frame recess in the area of the firing pin you'll see a small cross pin. Cock the lockwork and use a small piece of wood to press the firing pin forward just a small amount to take any drag off the cross pin. Then lift the cross pin out with some tweezers. Once the cross pin has been removed the firing pin will slide right out by grasping the rear with some tweezers. You could also push it out with a toothpick from the recoil shield side. When you re-insert the firing pin you have to pay attention to the orientation and position the travel slot so that it will clear the cross pin that retains it. For the firing pin return spring, I snag it out with a small bit of hook shaped wire, such as a paper clip that's been re-shaped.
Now, about factory and aftermarket firing pins. The first thing you should do when you remove your firing pin is measure the overall length using either calipers or a micrometer, eyeballing it against a scale won't be accurate enough to identify what you have.
First there is Factory. Between 2008 and 2011 I've seen an increase of about 0.015 inch in the length of the factory firing pins. On my 2008 vintage 620 the factory firing pin measured with an overall length of 0.479 inch. On my 2011 vintage 625 the factory firing pin measured at 0.493 inch for overall length. I suspect this was done because around 2008 there were many complaints about poor ignition reliablity with S&W revolvers and that has slowly gone away.
Cylinder & Slide offers a firing pin that is 0.510 inch long and this pin also features an extended travel slot. While it works very well in a revolver that has been tuned to lighten the DA trigger it's also an invitation to a pierced primer in a gun that has the trigger tuned too heavy for this particular firing pin. BTW, when tuning for this particular firing pin I would recomend tuning the DA trigger weight to weight of 7.5 to 8.3 lbs., I've found it to be very safe with this level of tension on the mainspring. However, it is critical to use snap caps for any dry firing with this particular firing pin and I also think that replacing the firing pin return spring at regular intervals with this firing pin is a good idea. I would also consider it to be a firing pin geared for range or competition use and do not recomend it's use in a Defense revolver.
Second up for aftermarket firing pins is Apex Tactical. They currently offer 2 different length of firing pins. One is specified at 0.495 inch overall length and the XP firing pin is specified at 0.500 inch for overall length. I have had no experience with Apex Tactical's firing pins, they were unfortunately out of stock the last time I needed firing pins. However, they do have a great reputation and it's worth taking a look to see if they've come into stock. Personally, I suspect that their 0.495 inch firing pin would be a good choice for a revolver tuned to a DA trigger weight of around 10 lbs., which is near full factory tension.
If you want to keep your DA trigger at full factory levels (11.5 to 12 lbs.) you should consider ordering a factory firing pin.
First a note on stuck firing pins. Personally, I consider using a hammer an extreme solution. I've had a firing pin stick once in my 610-3 and found that simply rocking the cylinder back and forth allowed it to pop free of the primer. However, in my case the primer had not been pierced, the dimple was deep enough to "capture" the tip of the firing pin. BTW, I was shooting in single action when this happened. Since you did have to use a hammer I'd strongly recomend replacing it because may have been bent. If you just want your 629 fixed and don't want to take it on yourself call the factory customer service and have it done under warranty. If your curious as to why it happened, read on. Also note you'll want some properly "fitted" gunsmithing screwdrivers so you don't bugger up the screws.
I would also urge the purchase of the Kuhnhausen S&W shop manual as a basic guide to working on these revolvers however it is a bit out of date in regards to the more recent revolvers with frame mounted firing pins, so don't take it as pure gospel. Of particular note I would NEVER EVER stone a trigger to tune for a lighter SA trigger pull, today simply changing the rebound spring for a lighter one will achieve the same goal and won't lead to future issues with pushoff.
It is NOT at all difficult to change out your firing pin PROVIDED you know how to properly remove the sideplate. That is done by removing the grips, removing all of the sideplate screws, and then TAPPING the sideplate free by striking the grip frame with a plastic or wood object across the side of the grip frame. Personally I use the plastic handle on a screwdriver. Lay the gun on it's side in your lap and rap the grip frame repeatedly below the sideplate and the vibrations will cause it to rise up out of it's nest. Once it's popped free you can then set it aside.
You'll then see that the Hammer Block has also come free and that particular part can be a bit of a challenge to get fitted correctly the first time you open up the lockwork on one of these revolvers. At one end you'll find a triangular shaped end with a slot in it. This slot is engaged by the pin that is mouned on the side of the Rebound slide. When you replace the hammer block you need to place it in the UP position so that the blocking tab is between the hammer face and the frame and tip the revolver slighly so that it stays in that position while you replace the sideplate. BTW, note that the sideplate has a small tab at the top that fits under the frame cutout for the sideplate at the top. Normally when I re-mount a sideplate I start with that tab at the top and then the front extension by the Yoke retaining screw. Then I use a firm press with my thumb to push the sideplate in place. If you can't press it down with thumb pressure it means the Hammer Block is out of position and you have to start over. BTW, the first time I had to re-fit a sideplate it took me 45 minutes to figure out the positioning for the hammer block and the orientation to hold the revolver so it wouldn't shift when getting the sideplate in place, now it takes a few seconds. Basically, plan on a bit of frustration the very first time.
Now that that has been covered, removing the firing pin is dead easy. Up at the top of the frame recess in the area of the firing pin you'll see a small cross pin. Cock the lockwork and use a small piece of wood to press the firing pin forward just a small amount to take any drag off the cross pin. Then lift the cross pin out with some tweezers. Once the cross pin has been removed the firing pin will slide right out by grasping the rear with some tweezers. You could also push it out with a toothpick from the recoil shield side. When you re-insert the firing pin you have to pay attention to the orientation and position the travel slot so that it will clear the cross pin that retains it. For the firing pin return spring, I snag it out with a small bit of hook shaped wire, such as a paper clip that's been re-shaped.
Now, about factory and aftermarket firing pins. The first thing you should do when you remove your firing pin is measure the overall length using either calipers or a micrometer, eyeballing it against a scale won't be accurate enough to identify what you have.
First there is Factory. Between 2008 and 2011 I've seen an increase of about 0.015 inch in the length of the factory firing pins. On my 2008 vintage 620 the factory firing pin measured with an overall length of 0.479 inch. On my 2011 vintage 625 the factory firing pin measured at 0.493 inch for overall length. I suspect this was done because around 2008 there were many complaints about poor ignition reliablity with S&W revolvers and that has slowly gone away.
Cylinder & Slide offers a firing pin that is 0.510 inch long and this pin also features an extended travel slot. While it works very well in a revolver that has been tuned to lighten the DA trigger it's also an invitation to a pierced primer in a gun that has the trigger tuned too heavy for this particular firing pin. BTW, when tuning for this particular firing pin I would recomend tuning the DA trigger weight to weight of 7.5 to 8.3 lbs., I've found it to be very safe with this level of tension on the mainspring. However, it is critical to use snap caps for any dry firing with this particular firing pin and I also think that replacing the firing pin return spring at regular intervals with this firing pin is a good idea. I would also consider it to be a firing pin geared for range or competition use and do not recomend it's use in a Defense revolver.
Second up for aftermarket firing pins is Apex Tactical. They currently offer 2 different length of firing pins. One is specified at 0.495 inch overall length and the XP firing pin is specified at 0.500 inch for overall length. I have had no experience with Apex Tactical's firing pins, they were unfortunately out of stock the last time I needed firing pins. However, they do have a great reputation and it's worth taking a look to see if they've come into stock. Personally, I suspect that their 0.495 inch firing pin would be a good choice for a revolver tuned to a DA trigger weight of around 10 lbs., which is near full factory tension.
If you want to keep your DA trigger at full factory levels (11.5 to 12 lbs.) you should consider ordering a factory firing pin.
scooter123
Member
I suspect your firing pin was jacked up when you used a hammer to open the cylinder. As I said, I consider resorting to a hammer as a Last Resort Extreme level solution. Personally, I would have spent time rocking the cylinder back and forth gently before resorting to a hammer, even if it took 2 or 3 hours of rocking to free it up. The problem with using a hammer is that you may have also bent the cylinder yoke, so have that checked out while your gun is at your gunsmith. Hopefully, you were gentle enough with that hammer that the yoke wasn't bent.
As for bad ammo causing a jacked firing pin, I cannot concieve of that happening. Worst case is that fouling could cause the firing pin to stick in the forward position and it would probably take many many thousands of rounds to get enough fouling in that area to cause this to happen.
Make sure that you get that firing pin back so you can measure it's overall length. I have yet to see one single complaint about a pierced primer with a revolver fitted with the factory frame mounted firing pin. However, it can happen with the longer aftermarket firing pins if the mainspring tension hasn't been reduced. I've also personally seen micro fractured primer dimples with my 610 when I made the mistake of installing a C&S firing pin with the mainspring at full factory tension. It was just pure good luck that I didn't pierce a primer with that particular setup. I now feel these longer firing pins should ONLY be used AFTER the mainspring tension has been reduced for a lighter trigger pull. In the case of the C&S firing pin I once felt that 9 lbs. of DA trigger pull was safe and shot it that way for at least 1000 rounds. However, after having the firing pin get "trapped" in a primer I now recomend reducing the mainspring tension to produce a DA trigger of 8.5 lbs or less.
Now a note on dry firing. Cylinder and Slide Specifically states that Snap Caps MUST be used for any dry firing with this pin. In addition the C&S firing pins have gained a reputation for wadding up the firing pin return spring, most likely due to dry firing without using a snap cap or using snap caps that are basically worn out. As I noted earlier the C&S firing pin has about 1/16 inch more travel capability than the factory firing pin so it can poke a lot deeper into a primer. The good news is these firing pins provide for perfect reliability with a trigger that has been tuned a lot lighter than what the factory delivers.
Personally, I think that any dry firing should be done using snap caps no matter what firing pin is installed. With a factory firing pin it will strike the cross pin that retains it every single time the hammer drops on an empty chamber. Sooner or later I believe that will either cause the firing pin to fracture or that retaining pin may bend or fracture. If that cross pin does fail I can predict that getting it out of the frame will prove challenging and possibly rather expensive. Just suppose it bends in the middle so it can't be pulled out, the only viable method to remove it will be to pay to have it removed by EDM machining, which I expect will likely cost in excess of 100 dollars. Quite simply, Snap Caps are cheap insurance and should be used for any dry firing.
BTW, fired casings are NOT a suitable substitute for snap caps because a dimpled primer won't provide any additional protection because it's already DIMPLED. Azoom Snap Caps feature a high durometer urethane insert in the primer pocket that rebounds after every strike and it's the only snap cap I use. As for silicone sealant or eraser rubber, neither are hard enough to even get a reading on a Durometer testing machine and IMO provide about as much protection as an empty chamber. Finally, I've shot the rims off a few sets of 38 spl. snap caps, so they do wear out. It also illustrates that they are actually taking a shock with each strike, something you may want to think about when the posts about snap caps not being needed inevitably show up.
As for bad ammo causing a jacked firing pin, I cannot concieve of that happening. Worst case is that fouling could cause the firing pin to stick in the forward position and it would probably take many many thousands of rounds to get enough fouling in that area to cause this to happen.
Make sure that you get that firing pin back so you can measure it's overall length. I have yet to see one single complaint about a pierced primer with a revolver fitted with the factory frame mounted firing pin. However, it can happen with the longer aftermarket firing pins if the mainspring tension hasn't been reduced. I've also personally seen micro fractured primer dimples with my 610 when I made the mistake of installing a C&S firing pin with the mainspring at full factory tension. It was just pure good luck that I didn't pierce a primer with that particular setup. I now feel these longer firing pins should ONLY be used AFTER the mainspring tension has been reduced for a lighter trigger pull. In the case of the C&S firing pin I once felt that 9 lbs. of DA trigger pull was safe and shot it that way for at least 1000 rounds. However, after having the firing pin get "trapped" in a primer I now recomend reducing the mainspring tension to produce a DA trigger of 8.5 lbs or less.
Now a note on dry firing. Cylinder and Slide Specifically states that Snap Caps MUST be used for any dry firing with this pin. In addition the C&S firing pins have gained a reputation for wadding up the firing pin return spring, most likely due to dry firing without using a snap cap or using snap caps that are basically worn out. As I noted earlier the C&S firing pin has about 1/16 inch more travel capability than the factory firing pin so it can poke a lot deeper into a primer. The good news is these firing pins provide for perfect reliability with a trigger that has been tuned a lot lighter than what the factory delivers.
Personally, I think that any dry firing should be done using snap caps no matter what firing pin is installed. With a factory firing pin it will strike the cross pin that retains it every single time the hammer drops on an empty chamber. Sooner or later I believe that will either cause the firing pin to fracture or that retaining pin may bend or fracture. If that cross pin does fail I can predict that getting it out of the frame will prove challenging and possibly rather expensive. Just suppose it bends in the middle so it can't be pulled out, the only viable method to remove it will be to pay to have it removed by EDM machining, which I expect will likely cost in excess of 100 dollars. Quite simply, Snap Caps are cheap insurance and should be used for any dry firing.
BTW, fired casings are NOT a suitable substitute for snap caps because a dimpled primer won't provide any additional protection because it's already DIMPLED. Azoom Snap Caps feature a high durometer urethane insert in the primer pocket that rebounds after every strike and it's the only snap cap I use. As for silicone sealant or eraser rubber, neither are hard enough to even get a reading on a Durometer testing machine and IMO provide about as much protection as an empty chamber. Finally, I've shot the rims off a few sets of 38 spl. snap caps, so they do wear out. It also illustrates that they are actually taking a shock with each strike, something you may want to think about when the posts about snap caps not being needed inevitably show up.
Iron Sight
Member
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Wonder if its possible someone spent time firing 44 special in the gun leaving a carbon ring in the chambers that would not allow proper seating of magnum cartridges?
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The black on the bottom of the casing around the primer would indicate a puntured primer, correct? That could then clog up the area around the firing pin, causing it to stick out on subsequent rounds thereby jamming the cylinder. It seems to me this is what happened, based on the sequence of events. The curious issue is what caused the punctured primer in the first place. I believe it was a stock firing pin, so perhaps was the retaining pin worn out from dry firing?
Thanks for all the help...I'm not new to guns, but new to all the internal workings of them.
Thanks for all the help...I'm not new to guns, but new to all the internal workings of them.
Tyrod
Member
Better jack it back down.
Get some snap caps and dry fire away.
Yes, but more likely dry fireing without snap caps.
With all due respect then please can count mine as the first one. Brand new 629 that had never been screwed with or modified and it stuck on the 9th round. The first six looked fine then next three showed evidence of blowback. All were factory loaded ammo and not reloads.
I called S&W and they fixed mine under warranty and paid the shipping both ways. If the firing pin is toast, I would suspect the bushing is too and in that case I'm glad I sent mine to the factory.
Frank46
US Veteran
When a firing pin punctures the primer the gasses escaping from the cartridge case through the hole in the primer can and will gas cut the tip of the firing pin and the bushing. I've seen this on both pistols and revolvers. My Baretta 92 firing pin was severly gas cut when firing rem-umc 9mm factory loads. You could feel the divot in the tip of the firing pin. Rifles wether bolt action or otherwise also suffer firing pin damage from the same cause. Swedish 96 mauser shooting lapua match ammo (berdan primed) and a fellow shooters rem 700 in 223 had damage to the firing pin as well as a bunch of the cookies out of the primers inside the bolt. Took the firing pin out and rapped the bolt on a piece of wood and a bunch of cookies fell out. Frank
Took the gun out again today after a good oil bath to see what it would do. It randomly locks up after firing a round. I am able to unjam it by rocking the hammer and tapping on it with my palm. Is it the firing pin really jamming it or is it something else?
scooter123
Member
IMO the next suspect would be the firing pin return spring. These are quite cheap from Brownells, however the shipping cost for just one item is high enough that I wait until I have a bunch of items to order because one or fifty items all get the same charge.
Next down the list is the firing pin bushing and that's IMO a Factory job for replacement. While there may be some smiths who will replace this bushing it's a press fitted part and requires fitting in some cases. In addition it'll require precision fixturing in order to press in a new one without risking the hole being damaged by a cocked bushing being forced in.
If you have another revolver with a frame mounted firing pin I'd suggest that you use a toothpick or something similar to compare the tension of the return spring between the two. Open the cylinder, pull back on the cylinder release, then cock the hammer. At this point you can simply push on the firing pin and see how it feels.
If the spring on your 629 seems weak, it's very easy to replace, pull the firing pin out of the frame and use a paper clip with a small hook on the end to snag it out. Note, with an undamaged spring you can usually get them to shake out, however once they've been wadded up you have to physically pull them out.
If the tension seem to be identical then the primary suspect with be the firing pin bushing. Try repeated tests with the tooth pick and see if you can get it to jam or feel any drag. If so, I'd suggest pulling the firing pin and return spring and simply looking it over carefully. Use a magnifier and light to examine the hole for the firing pin and to look for loose debris or poweder that may have blown into this area when you primer failed. If it looks like there is something lodged in the hole for the firing pin sometimes you can use a tip cleaning file for welding torches to dislodge it. However you do have to be careful not to get extreme when doing this.
If none of the above resolves your problem IMO it's time to send it back to S&W and let someone who lives with these revolvers sort it out. While we have a lot of resident expertize here, in some cases it's a matter where someone who knows what to look for has the gun physically in their posession.
Next down the list is the firing pin bushing and that's IMO a Factory job for replacement. While there may be some smiths who will replace this bushing it's a press fitted part and requires fitting in some cases. In addition it'll require precision fixturing in order to press in a new one without risking the hole being damaged by a cocked bushing being forced in.
If you have another revolver with a frame mounted firing pin I'd suggest that you use a toothpick or something similar to compare the tension of the return spring between the two. Open the cylinder, pull back on the cylinder release, then cock the hammer. At this point you can simply push on the firing pin and see how it feels.
If the spring on your 629 seems weak, it's very easy to replace, pull the firing pin out of the frame and use a paper clip with a small hook on the end to snag it out. Note, with an undamaged spring you can usually get them to shake out, however once they've been wadded up you have to physically pull them out.
If the tension seem to be identical then the primary suspect with be the firing pin bushing. Try repeated tests with the tooth pick and see if you can get it to jam or feel any drag. If so, I'd suggest pulling the firing pin and return spring and simply looking it over carefully. Use a magnifier and light to examine the hole for the firing pin and to look for loose debris or poweder that may have blown into this area when you primer failed. If it looks like there is something lodged in the hole for the firing pin sometimes you can use a tip cleaning file for welding torches to dislodge it. However you do have to be careful not to get extreme when doing this.
If none of the above resolves your problem IMO it's time to send it back to S&W and let someone who lives with these revolvers sort it out. While we have a lot of resident expertize here, in some cases it's a matter where someone who knows what to look for has the gun physically in their posession.
just got the gun back from the gunsmith after $290 worth of work. He said he had to remill the firing pin and that the cylinder had come back 1.15 mils? Basically he said the previous owner had "shot the hell out of it" and that "these 44 magnums are only good for about 250 rounds before you have to rebuild them. Is that true? Can I only expect to get 250 rounds out of the thing before having to spend another $290 to get the firing pin assembly remilled and all that?
AABEN
Member
I thank he is full of bs. You should had sent it in to S&W and had it done. Now you have a lot more in your gun and it is still not fix like S&W would had fix it.Send it in !!
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